heartless

+10! Somebody in the city/county government has to know where that kind of stuff can be taken - if they dont have a specific place, they are being very irresponsible, and I would be asking WHY they dont have a list of places for hazardous waste disposal... ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We interrupt this thread for a Public Service Announcement: Dumping things like old motor oil and antifreeze down the storm drains DOES put that stuff into the water supply. Most (not all, but most) storm drain systems are not hooked into the city sewer systems (it would overwhelm the sewer system during a big storm). Instead, they take storm runoff and direct it to a watershed area - untreated. This watershed area DOES feed the water supply systems, as well as streams, rivers and lakes. (disclaimer: I did work for a civil engineering office as a drafter for a time. I do have first hand knowledge of how this stuff is designed) Another FYI - pouring down the drain, even diluted, especially if you are on a septic system, is really not a good idea either. It does kill off the essential bacteria in the system, which can cause all sorts of problems, including but not limited to back-ups. And a city sewer system is not really much more than a giant septic system. (disclaimer: the other half is a septic pumper - he could tell some stories...) So Please - Think before you dump! now back to your regularly scheduled programming...

haha - I have seen those same pictures (and story) at a local shop here - they are under the glass of the front counter. can you imagine???

O2 will definitely affect performance - depending on how bad it is, the car can become almost undrivable.

YAY! Progress! I can almost hear it running now! hehe

Preparation will make or break a paint job - the better your prep work, the better the final result. I suggest self etching primer. light wet sand, and tack off - must be CLEAN before applying paint. There is a product that a lot of the pro airbrush artists use called Bulldog Adhesion Promoter - it is wiped over the surface to help remove oils from fingerprints, and other contaminants, and helps the paint adhere better. 2 stage (color/clear) will give better results, but requires more work. As for the masking paper - you can get pre-taped masking paper at Menards, in varying widths - in the paint section.

this is a definite for any all wheel drive vehicle. any binding, bucking or anything other than smooth operation indicates torque bind. The 2.5 head gasket issue was on a certain range of years, but not sure of what years(?) - it has since been resolved. If you can get proof that HGs were done on a given vehicle in that year range, it should be ok. If you are looking for fuel econmy, the manual trans is the way to go, altho the 4spd auto is a decent tranny if you prefer that, just dont expect stellar mpgs out of it. maintenance history is always a nice thing to have, but not always available. If you end up with one that has no "known" history, then it is always a good idea to do a complete timing belt service, which includes pulleys, seals, water pump, etc., as soon as possible. peace of mind is priceless. my personal preference is for the non-interference 2.2, but that is me. Plenty of folks have the 2.5's and like them just fine.

ok, if you dont want to do the entire console, what about doing just the padded top of the compartment? that would look good. plus, you wouldnt have to take the entire console out to do it!! LOL

not too shabby - but yeah the door handles/lock buttons need doing - looks a little off without them done. center console?

it sure does!

good to hear that things are going good!

and good luck with that reman alternator "lifetime" warranty - I just went thru all that with my 90 Legacy - mine was failing only when it got hot. Like you I would get random idiot lights coming on, going off, then back on again... I went thru and cleaned all grounds under the hood, and thoroughly cleaned out the fuse panel and the underhood fuse box (dusty) - made no difference at all. would go to get it checked out, and it would "test" fine - but the hood was up so the engine heat was not being held in, therefore it wasnt getting hot enough to cause the failure. Parts house told me there was nothing they could do unless it "tested" bad. I finally took an old stock unit to a local rebuilder with a good rep and had it properly rebuilt - it did cost me a little more, but so far has been well worth the cost.

Looking good!! < waiting for more goodness!

this belongs in the classified section... and FWIW - scrap price on the cats for those years is around $55 - just took 3 in today.

I still say Goof-Off is the best product, hands down. A friend bought one of those little "helping hands" things with the aligator clips for holding small items that had a magnifying glass on it (he has bad eyes) at a garage sale, but the seller had written the price in marker directly on the magnifying glass. he tried all kinds of things trying to remove the marker from the glass - WD-40, baby oil, multipurpose cleaners, and a few other things that I forget now - nothing worked. I brought my small can of Goof-Off over, and had the marker cleaned off in less than 1 minute. a quick wipe down with some glass cleaner, and he can now use the thing.... It is also working well to remove very old varnish residue. I am in the midst of stripping some old cabinet doors with glass in them (very old glass) - the glass has paint and varnish around the edges. After a scraping with a razor to remove the bulk of the paint & varnish, the Goof-Off is doing a fabulous job of removing the residue left behind - making the job much easier to complete. I have used it to remove sticky residues from removing window and/or bumper stickers, Sharpie marker on both glass and plastic, works well to remove paint residue from the hands if you are a messy painter...endless possibilites.

awesome write up - this belongs in the USRM!!

final repaired update had to order a new midpipe, there was just no way around it. Per the FSM, this is wrong! the cat to midpipe conection is studs/nuts, with a crush type metal ring "gasket" the midpipe to rear connection is the spring/bolt/nut connection. with a tapered donut gasket (actually looks like fine wires all crushed together) Found that the old Y-pipe was in even worse shape than I thought once I got it off the car - the left hand pipe was cracked almost all the way around right at the cat connection - just a tiny bit of pressure snapped it off! the new to me/used Y-pipe had the heat shields removed from the head pipes (they were already loose, figured might as well take them off now before they caused problems and/or annoyances) Midpipe was bolted up to the cat with new crush ring installed. Whole works went under the car, and was bolted up to the heads (a second pari of hands is VERY useful at this point!), then the rear connection made. Only "problem" is that the new midpipe does not have the right hanger bracket - had to do a little afro-engineering to support things. All is "quiet" on the western front again! (or as quiet as it gets with a cherry bomb muffler! LOL) YAY! Car is actually running better now as well - really surprised I hadnt gotten an O2 code with that crack being right in front of the cat...

Heat turned on full hot?? if the heat is not set to full hot, then no, you wont get the air bubbles out of the heater core - Must set the heat to full hot setting so that the coolant can flow thru the heater core. it isnt necessary to run the fan, but the temp setting must be all the way to hot. repeat the above procedure with heat setting on hot, and run for several minutes after reaching operating temperature. trying to pressurize a cold system probably wont work because of the closed thermostat...and could in fact cause more problems than it solves...

Car Audio shop??

Rockers are lookin awesome!! Total score on the stainless sheet goods! very nice neighbor you have there. the pug/bighorn doesnt look that bad - sure it looks a little odd at full suspension drop, but I bet with the weight of the car on it, wouldnt look that bad, and would sit in the wheel well a little better.

Didnt say I personally believed in any of that who-ha. So Tom - any pics of the drivers side rockers yet??

Jack stands should ALWAYS be placed under the vehicle frame if they will be supporting the weight of the vehicle.

I doubt very much that the Denso O2 sensor has anything to do with your current problem. just for comparison - I have had a Denso O2 sensor in my 90 Legacy (more finnicky) for more than a year now with no issues. This could be a heat related issue - as in everything is fine when cold, but fails when it gets warm. The starting up/running fine after sitting makes me think it is. I would very carefully check the wiring over for signs of damage and/or corrosion. Also - age and condition of the battery/charging system? bad batteries and/or alternators have been known to cause some very strange things to happen. D-check has a very specific sequence that needs to be followed in order to get "good" readings - the first step being to run the car up to operating temp, and since you are having problems with the car staying running, I dont expect that you would get a "good" reading from D-check mode. If you can get the car to start, my suggestion is to run the car as long as it will run. Once it "dies" check the terminals you checked previously again immediately after - I am going to guess that there will be a signifcant change in the readings immediately after it dies - this would confirm a heat related failure. hopefully someone else with more experience will chime in soon...

You havent heard the latest on that? they found new Mayan "calendar" calculations that go well beyond the year 3500!! Newly Discoverd Mayan Calendar goes way beyond 2012 So - no excuses for not having it done for next years DM show!!

just for grins & giggles - see what these folks can do for you...good quality parts at very reasonable prices - mainland shipping was darn cheap - doesnt hurt to look... http://www.thepartsbin.com/

if there is room to get them on they work quite well and will grip even the nastiest looking nuts/bolt heads. the biggest issue is the possibility of snapping the bolt if they are that rusty, cause these things DO grip and will turn whatever they are on - whether or not the rest of the bolt will turn is the big question.