heartless

its only about 2 feet long? the little short section between the cat and resonator on a 1st gen... ooops, my mistake - total is $55.81, what can I say - a little dyslexlic today? part = $46.96 shipping = $7.14 handling = $1.71 total = $55.81

I have a copy of the 89 GL FSM in 2 PDFs (one is 5.19 MB, the other is 3.84 MB) covering the general, engine and electrical systems (including wiring diagrams) that I can email if needed by anyone - forgot where I got them from, but very handy to have. (pm email addys - do not post them in public, please - for your privacy)

a lot of it does depend on what part you looking for, IMHO. Price is not the only thing to look at, obviously - but part number/manufacturer as well the 5 cent piece might be the exact same part number/manufacturer as the $5 piece... One "dealer" may buy in larger quantities and pass the savings to the customer... just sayin... case in point: my 90 Legacy wagon has developed 2 exhaust leaks. 1 at the Y pipe - left tube to converter junction is failing, the other is the junction at the midpipe to rear (rusted out & blown donut). I have another Y-pipe section with lower miles in very good condition for it's age here that will go on the car to fix that one. for the midpipe - the spare I have turns out to not be in as good of shape as I was hoping for once I started to remove the old donut gasket, so went in search of a replacement. Advance Auto has the Bosal replacement midpipe for $91.99 (add to that the fact that I would have to pay shipping costs to get the part shipped - even to my local store...) the PartsBin.com has the exact same Bosal piece for $46.96 - add shipping/handling and the total comes to $51.88 (shipped directly to me) Which one would you buy? Me - I am going with the $40 + savings. (in either case I have to wait for the part to be shipped, so that has no bearing on my decision) The other half has used The PartsBin.com for several other things, including new rotors for his '04 Mercury Sable, and a new hub assembly for the '95 Dodge Ram 4x4 - both times excellent quality parts that fit perfectly and at a fraction of buying thru the "normal" parts houses... So while price (including shipping/handling charges) may be a factor, it is not the only factor to look at. Oh, just as an FYI on the shipping thing - when looking for the gaskets for my upcoming exhaust repair - rockauto.com had great prices on the gaskets themselves, but they wanted to charge me over $35 for shipping 2 measly gaskets!! Always, always, ALWAYS, check shipping costs before commiting to buying!!!

that I am not real sure of, the used one I put in came from a 91 model, my car is a 90. would need to do a little research on if/when the sending unit got changed. I believe, in my case, that they are the same at least thru 94 - but I could be wrong? ok, so a little poking around and nobody seems to list the secondary one for 90-94 models (lame), but they do list it for 95 & up, and it appears to be identical to what I have at least thru 1999. Hope that helps.

Yay!! lookin great!! is it time for the drivers side yet??

this is just plain rude - and with nearly 3000 posts - you should know better.

yup - mine did that sometimes fill it up, it would read full, and work ok to about 3/4 of a tank, then it would quit working completely, until it got down to 1/4 tank, then read fine until it got to empty... from what I have been able to find - this is because the secondary sending unit is going bad - the one on the drivers side of the tank. the primary is on the passenger side along with the fuel pump... in my case, i swapped mine out with another from a lower mileage car and it has been working fairly well since. and yes - the trip meter is a very useful tool (and my low fuel light doesnt work!)

just to wrap this thread up... got my freshly rebuilt alternator installed thursday morning. Work done at a local Alternator & starter repair shop that has a good reputation for quality work. Yes, it cost me a little more, but should be well worth it. no more light shows in the dash, no more crazy warm idle, no more dropping voltage at idle...everything appears to be operating as it should be - finally! I am a happy camper right now. now if i can just get the exhaust leak taken care of, i can like my subaru again! lesson learned: dont bother with the "cheap" so called life-time warranty alternators from the parts houses - not worth the hassle when you cant get the stupid thing replaced because it fails intermittently, and never when you are at the parts store to get it checked!

Goof-Off works quite well. PB Blaster will also work, just takes a little more of it. Both will leave an oily residue however, but that can easily be washed off. Rubbing Alcohol will work, but again, takes more of it, and more effort. I would NOT use gasoline on painted surfaces - it will damage the finish.

yes, yes, and yes They are Intnernally regulated, and as such the entire alternator needs to either be replaced, or rebuilt going all the way up to 18v is definitely a problem. it should hold fairly steady around 13.5 - 14v - below that it is not putting out enough of a charge, over that it is putting out too much of a charge, meaning the regulator is shot - get it replaced asap or you might end up needing a new battery as well (would definitely get battery tested seperately just to make sure there is no damage already done)

I can recommend a product called "Freeze Off" made by CRC, or there is one called "CorrosionX" that is REALLY good, but it is not cheap. We got both of these products at our local True Value Hardware store. CorrosionX has a website: http://www.corrosionx.com/ the CorrosionX was $17 for a 6 oz spray can - but it does work very well.

Year? Model? Mileage? codes/flashing AT light? and have you checked the fluid level at all?? that is the FIRST thing I would check... is the level correct? does the fluid look & smell clean? or does it look/smell burnt?

welding. but this only works if there is enough metal left in the pipe to actually weld to without burning thru it. Stock pipes are pretty thick compared to the cheap aftermarket stuff, so they tend to last longer - at least that has been my experience - YMMV.

the Harbor Freight one works well enough for most "general" applications - not sure I trust it for something like headbolts, but for lug nuts, crank pulleys, tie rod ends, and the like, it does well enough.

cant afford "nice new stuff", unemployed for more than 2 years has that effect, so "used in decent condition" it is. Graduating school soon, need the car to be in "decent" shape for job hunting.

when I got the car, the exhaust was pretty trashed, we patched it up as best we could with cheap stuff - mostly from the resonator back, then picked up a couple of parts cars and re-peiced things with genuine parts - lol. ok, so spring connectors at cat/midpipe connection (3), regular bolt together at the midpipe/rear connection (2) - Got it! Thanks again for the help!!

thanks! the replacment Y-pipe/cat has a decent flange on it (have to get one broken stud out tho), but the midpipe that is on the car is shot (rust belt) so both the Y-pipe/cat unit and the midpipe will be replaced with pieces from parts cars that are in better overall condition/lower mileage. ok, next question - does the mid pipe to cat connection just get bolted on, or should I get the spring loaded connectors for that too? not really sure since the exhaust on this car was kind of cobbled together in the first place... I know the midpipe to rear gets the sping loaded connectors - or at least that is what is on the car now...

actually have 2 of the Brat RCs - one original 1983 version, and the re-release version with the 2 different bodies. Yours looks pretty darn good there, Tom - where did you get the roof basket from? Want one!! LOL

have recently developed a couple of leaks in the exhaust of my 90 Legacy wagon... leak #1 at the junction of the left hand head pipe & cat converter - I realize this means replacing the cat/Y-pipe section and I have one with lower miles and in better condition leak #2 is at the juction of the midpipe and rear section - "doughnut" type gasket - correct? the problem is the midpipe itself - the flange at the cat side is pretty much gone. If I try to remove it from the cat, it is going to fall apart and be useless. I do have another midpipe I can use, but I will have to remove it from the cat that it is attached to (that cat is not in much better shape than the one on the car now) question is - what do I need for a "gasket" between the midpipe & cat??? while searching for the gaskets I found two different styles: 1 - looks like a metal ring 2 - is a 3 hole triangular flat gasket - similar in construction to the main exhaust gaskets at the heads so which one do I need? or do I need both? the diagram I found shows the metal ring type, but I am not sure how accurate that diagram is... HELP, Please! I am getting a major headache right now...

Whoohoo!! glad to hear you got her sorted out!

Well, yeah, that would be a great option! but since it isnt - yet - we are forced to dig a little bit deeper..

yup, if the tensioner fell off, it is pretty much a guarantee it jumped time. Follow the link posted above and you can set it right again - excellent write up.

in the user control panel (click "User CP" in the blue bar above), way down near the bottom of the left hand menu there is a link that says "Paid Subscriptions" - click on that and you will be presented with several options for donating via Paypal. If you want to send a check, then, yeah, PM ShawnW for mailing address.

OMG, I am SOOO jealous! I would love to have an SVX! Anyway - Welcome Back!!

i KNEW there was a reason i didnt like him!