heartless

i do the jacking front and rear & use jack stands in the appropriate places, but we have a nice shop jack and many jack stands. jacking front - place jack so it lifts @ the center of front crossmember once car is high enough, place the jack stands, lower jack jacking rear - place jack so it lifts @ rear diff, jack up the back end, place jack stands, Rotate tires. easy peasy. If you dont have jack stands, it can still be done, just takes a lot longer. jack up one corner, remove tire, place spare on, lower car, move to next corner, jack up, swap tires, repeat until you get back to the first corner, remove spare, place last tire, lower car - check lug nuts, done.

if it is done correctly the first time, you dont really "need" to do it again, altho it doesnt hurt to check it... that said, i would be looking at other things for the reason the belt failed so early - such as the bearings in the tension/idler pullys, and/or water pump... also the quality of the belts can make a difference. Another thing to be aware of is oil saturation - does this car leak oil from the cam/crank seals?? or anywhere else up front? if so, it could be getting on the belts and that can cause early failure as well. (been there, done that - tried to do the job cheaply once & only changed the belts - stripped several teeth some 25-30,000 later due to oil saturation cause I didnt replace the leaky seals - wasnt so cheap in the long run.) Seems to me I used Gates brand belts and they held up fine (other than the above)

dude - if the backspacing is correct, you could feasible fit a 10" wide wheel on it - sure, it would stick out beyond the body of the car, but it all boils down to backspacing as to whether or not it will clear the suspension. and you dont really need that much clearance - if you can stick your fingers between the strut and the tire (with the car on the ground), it has enough clearance.

Ok, that is good to know - perhaps my fear of "interference" motors is somewhat unfounded... getting back to the topic at hand tho... I agree with Miles - get a whole car for a donor, that way you have EVERYTHING you will possibly need for a swap. And with just a little bit of hunting, they can be found cheaply - one that has been rear-ended, or mildly T-boned would be a great donor car for an engine swap. for that matter, a little bit of searching can often come up with a running/driving car for just a few hundred. My current daily driver - 90 Legacy LS wagon - was purchased for $200 - had blown air struts and a trashed exhaust as result of those blown struts - swapped in standard coil-overs, fixed the exhaust and down the road we go - that was 4 years ago.

Thanks for answering the question about the years - still learning about the EJ's myself, and so far my experience is limited to the first gen... And while I havent had a belt break - I did have one jump time on my 90 model (made the mistake of letting someone else do the timing job - wont ever happen again!) had that happened on a non-interference motor - I would have been looking for a replacement motor, not another timing kit - big difference in cost there. Just sold a 1st gen (90-91) - mostly complete for $150 - had 160K on it and was a known runner when we got it - and it is again now!

ROFL - that thought had already crossed the mind, and decided against - for now...

GD - you guys in the PNW are definitely spoiled up there. I am not too far from Numbchux (northcentral WI) and good clean cars of ANY kind are hard to come by - somewhat rusty ones on the other hand can be had cheaply. I would absolutely love to head out to your neck of the woods and pick up a nice clean early Legacy wagon to bring home - if I had the way to get them back here, I would do more than one! My personal thoughts - I think that if someone has a clean body - of any style - and they want to "upgrade", it is entirely up to them. Dismissing a particular model because you, personally, dont think it is worth doing is wrong. You arent the one doing it, it isnt your money or time, so what do you care if someone wants to ej an ea82 wagon? Why bash someone else for wanting to follow their dream? Whether or not the cost is "recoverable" is irrelevant to many - they probably arent doing it to "make" money. I know I wouldnt be - but then I am a "drive it till it drops" kind of person... Everyone is different, has different wants and needs - these are the things that make life interesting - especially Subaru life. I do have a question for Numbchux tho - why the 96-99 EJ22??? those are interference motors, right? why not the earlier non-interference - seems to me that would be the way to go - so what if it pops a belt, no damage done - new belt, pulleys, waterpump, seals if needed, good to go.

i replied to your thread about the rebuild kit - but apparently you havent looked at it? anyway look here: http://chicagocarburetor.com/carburetor-kits-car.php?c=73 second to the last listing on the page does list your model numbers and is only $32.83 The rockers are looking much better - nice job! Cant wait to see this little car back on all 4's again, ready to hit the road.

Wish it was that simple - been down this road before - I can "demand" all I want, it isnt going to happen unless the stupid thing tests bad on their equipment, which it wont do because it is heat related failure at this point, and I cannot afford to keep running it until it does fail completely (both my sanity and my wallet would suffer way too much - sanity from the constant light shows & stress, wallet in the form of a new battery and possibly a tow if the stupid thing fails completely leaving me stranded with a dead battery) about ready to open it up and start clipping wires internally...

yes, for making the tight bends you would need for headers, it is a waste of money. purchasing a variety of pre-bent pieces in different angles and fabricating that way would make your dollars go much further.

we have both the Harbor Freight tubing bender, and the shop press (have lots of HF stuff here lol) and they do work, but the issue with the tubing bender is that it likes to flatten your average exhuast tubing, it doesnt give the nice curves of a professional bender. If you only need to bend a small angle it would be fine (20 degrees or less), but to create deeper more rounded pieces (like the section that fits around the rear drivetrain) - not gonna happen with this thing - not nicely anyway.

Mornin Tom found 2 sites that list kits that should fit your carb, altho the one is mighty proud of their kit... http://www.autopartsnetwork.com/catalog/1984/Subaru/GL/Air_and_Fuel_Delivery/Carburetor_Repair_Kit/Royze/W0133-ds-1622793.html?filter=part%20name:Carburetor+Repair+Kit_year:1984_ ^ the expensive one, and the cheaper one: http://chicagocarburetor.com/carburetor-kits-car.php?c=73 (scroll down the page a little, no individual links) Hope that helps.

or replace it with one in better condition.

umm, that would be "She" LOL ricearu, with my old FWD 5 spd wagon, I could get it to squawk the tires in 3 gears with just a little bit of effort. Some days I miss that old car, other days I am more appreciative of the nicer Legacy.

bosango - thanks for adding your two cents in, it may help others down the road. At this point, I have not had any issues with starter engagement, it cranks over everytime just fine. but i will keep that info in the back of the mind simply because it was mentioned at one of the many charging system checks that the starter seemed a little "weak" according to their equipment, and I do have a lower mileage unit here. right now, I am waiting for the call from the local alternator shop that my rebuild is ready - should be later this week, unless they ran into issues getting parts for it. as for the piece of crap, mass produced unit that was giving me all the fits - anyone know how to cook it to the point that it will test bad (without burning the house/garage down LOL)??? would still like to get it replaced under warranty - just because & so I have a backup unit on the shelf ready to go in an emergency.

Loyale and Legacy are 2 entirely different beasts. the EA82 in the Loyale only produces around 90 HP, versus the EJ22 in the Legacy producing around 135 hp about the only way to get the Loyale to "get out of it's own way" is to rev it higher between gear changes - peak torque is in the 3000 -3500 rpm range, got to hit at least that high to really do much with it. Reline isnt until 6500, so 4000 rpms is nothing to worry about. Oh, and Loyale discussion should be in the "older Gen" section

bad struts/shocks WILL cause tire wear issues - not to mention handling and braking issues. this is DEFINITELY a strut issue. Dont just "consider it" - DO IT! new struts/shocks, check the tophat bearings while out, replace tophats if needed, full alignment, and I am willing to bet that the wear issue goes away.

correct, and a 175R/70/15 would be the same width, but only 70% for the sidewall height, making it a slightly smaller tire, even tho it will still fit on the same rim. the contact patch is determined by the first number - the width of the tire (and proper tire inflation) - the side wall height really has very little to do with it. a taller sidewall may "look" wider (balloon out more, depending on wheel width), but it doesnt really affect the contact patch all that much.

probably just corroded wires - that is what happened with mine. if there is any rust in/near the wheel well area near the antenna, moisture gets up in there and causes corrosion. fix the corroded wires (and make sure the fuse is good) and it should work just fine. just trying to "pull" it up wont work very well, you could actually break the internal wiring rendering it completely useless, it needs to be powered to the up position, then yes, you could feasibly unplug it so it remains up. how to get to it - going to need to pull the interior trim off/out to access - going to guess this is in the trunk area on your car? I have a wagon so a bit different. tools - something to gently pry out the little clips that hold the interior pieces in place, and whatever tools you might need to fix the wires - wire cutters, new insulated crimp on ends, the crimping tool, electrical tape or heat shrink (my preference), possibly a couple lengths of appropriate size wire for extending the length - there isnt a lot of extra back there, so depending on how bad the corrosion is, you may need to add in a little. fixing the corroded wires is not necessarily a "hard" job to do, but it could be a pain in the backside working in the trunk area, access wise...

for the power antenna - you may want to check the wires back at the antenna itself - mine had corroded (wisconsin car - rusty wheel wells) to the point that it wasnt getting power anymore - fixed that, and it now works fine. as for the other stuff, definietly check fuses - I know that pulling the fuse for the ABS on my car turned the light in the dash on (fuse #10 I think, may be different on your 95 Imp) there are also fuses for ABS in the box under the hood. I dont have airbag on mine (90 Legacy), so not sure about that one, but would definitely start by checking fuses.

little tip that may help - put the seal in a baggie and throw it in the freezer over night. the cold will cause it to contract slightly, making it a teensy bit smaller, and just a little bit easier to seat in the hub. warming the hub before trying to drive the seal in will also help, as heat causes expansion. the 2 together should make it just a bit easier to get the seal into place.

plugs and wires are a good spot to start - what do the plugs look like? plugs can tell you alot. how old are the wires? wire failure can easily cause misfires. report back any unusual findings.

Interesting write up, and I may do this in the future, but the nearest dealer is over an hour away, and the shop that is rebuilding is only 20 mins - they also have an excellent reputation for doing quality work. just because - alternator I am running right now is out of the other half's old car - which has over 260,000 miles and I "think" it is an original stock unit. The alt i took to the shop today for rebuilding I also believe to be a stock original unit, but came out of a 162,000 mile car.

ok, swapped in the second of the two used alternators we have, this one seems to be charging better at lower rpms - have not actually put the DMM on it to verify, but the guage is reading better... BUT The irratic warm idle is back - not as bad as before, not as often, but it does get a weird every now and again... can't seem to win for losing... anyway, at this point I am convinced that the first alt is bad, even if it wont test so at the parts store. going to see about having one of the old stockers rebuilt - If I have to spend money yet again, it wont be on another inferior, mass produced unit.

LOL bought my first Subaru - an 89 GL 5 spd, FWD wagon with 152,000 on the clock for $150. Yes, I had to put some money into it to get it road worthy, but I drove that car for 8 years! Any money I put into it, I got back out of it twofold (if not more). When she was finally taken off the road due to severe salt cancer, she had 265,000 plus on the clock, still started and ran great, even after sitting for several months. When I hauled her off to the junkyard, I got a little more than $180 out of her for scrap (this was after some of the more useful parts were removed). That car did not owe me a dime. Yes, she was ugly, butt ugly even, and living on a gravel road, usually dirty, and dusty inside - but, She was bought and paid for, and insurance was ridiculously cheap, and I got better than 30 mpg out of her. So any naysayers can keep their $200 plus a month car payments, and full coverage insurance costs, I was the one coming out ahead in the end.