heartless

yup - i use photobucket, some use flicker - whatever works for you for hosting pics, then just link them here - saves server space here. I also have a 1990 Legacy - mine is an LS AWD wagon.

sounds like alternator on it's way out to me go to your local auto parts store (advance auto, autozone) and ask for a charging system test - most will do it for free with everything in the car.

removing - dont think so retorquing when putting back on - yes, there is a special sequence for that. I personally dont know what that is, but I am sure someone here can let you know.

welcome aboard Mike! so what version of Subaru do you have?? we LOVE pictures!

careful - Subaru's are quite addictive!! whoohoo on the tranny!! bet you will be glad to get that done! as far as the other goes - i just try not to think about it much - if i do, well...wont go there right now. started in on a rant, but cant do that (no politics allowed) so i will just say I'm not happy in general.

sometimes that is the best way to go! glad you got her up & running again.

your oil leak sounds about as bad as mine was - didnt leak so much sitting still, but driving? yeah....oil all over the back side of the car from it blowing back. i was dumping at least one quart a week in (sometimes 2) and i didnt drive all that much! when you pop the hood next - take a look on the passenger side, at the seam where the motor and tranny meet - if it is oily looking way up high on that seam - it is more than likely the seperator plate on the back of the motor that is the biggest culprit (was on mine). that requires pulling the motor to fix it.

Glad to hear you were able to get the drains cleared out ok Hey Kara - pics seem to be the one thing that is lacking with the sunroof issues. seems no one thinks to take them! (myself included!) so, with that in mind - putting out the call for anyone that will be tearing into fixing sunroof leaks - PLEASE - Take Pictures!!!!!! Thank you!

ok, i suppose it is possible then, BUT, WHY would someone go to all of the trouble of disconnecting the lever from the trans, leaving it in the car and tying it off, if the trans is being pulled & replaced?? that just doesnt make "logical" sense to me... the only reason i see for doing that is if you are trying to pull a fast one on some unsuspecting newbie....

sorry to hear that, :-\ but at least it is still fixable!

this is utter nonsense cats dont "go bad" they burn excess hydrocarbons in the exhaust - the only way they are going to "go bad" is if they get clogged - if it was clogged, the car would not "do great" on the test drive. in fact, you would have a hard time even getting it to run at all. if i was going to be concerned about anything it would be the missing coolant...an exhaust test (ie: emissions test) should be able to tell you if what you suspect is actually happening. honestly, i dont know much about the 2.5's so i have no advice to offer there.

uh, yeah, good luck with that. blowing air "towards" the back will do nothing for a blockage if there is one. you really need to look at a pic of one of these things to understand how it is put together/ how it all works. there are some great pics of a sun/moonroof reseal job here (scroll down): http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=183&start=125 yours may or may not have a full pan in the back (older versions i think have the full pan - my 1990 does - the newer ones i dont think do). regardless, on either version the rear drains are way back from the opening - in the general vicinity of the rear seatbacks. here are some pics of the newer non-pan style (again, scroll down) http://www.sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=13274&view=previous hope that helps you understand what you are dealing with. btw - the thread you referenced is for a car (wagon) with TWO operating sun/moonroof's and even at that, not too sure about actually seeing the rear drains...

nope, sorry - the only ones that you can get to with everything in the car are the two front ones - you wont see the back ones at all - they are all the way at the back of the pan... front ones - slide glass back and you should be able to just make out the drain holes at the front corners.

not necessarily - are these cars FWD or AWD??? the AWD cars use a vacuum type system to get fuel from one side of the tank to the other (over the center driveline hump) so the gurgling could be that getting started.

about the only way you are going to really see the drains, and how they are routed is to pull the headliner & pillar trim. and if you are going to go that far, you might as well go all the way and fix the "old sealant" right - it isnt hard to do once you get the pan out. (unless someone tried to "fix" it with everything still in the car like mine had been)

i dont know if you have any experience with the EA82's but the green test connectors would do the same thing on those - cycle the pump on & off hehe, i have actually used this method to drain a fuel tank before...works pretty darn good! the legacy pump, being inside the tank, is a little harder to hear - thus pulling back the carpet & opening the access cover (& no stereo!) - you should be able to hear it if you get close enough. hope you have a wagon! LOL wagon is much easier to get to thae access plate than the sedan is...

yes, it can be tested with it in the car... i posted how in my earlier post...connect green test connectors, turn key to "on" and listen for pump cycling on & off - best heard with carpet pulled back & access cover removed. also, make sure that there is a minimum of 10.5v @ the pump connection - under the carpet, under the oval access plate on the passenger side of car, behind the rear seatback (in trunk if a sedan)

may i ask what you need a mossberg for??? if you are depending on that vehicle as more than just transportation, you need to get priorities straight, and a mossberg should not be a factor in the equation... i'm sorry to hear about the job situation, but know this, you are NOT alone. No, i'm not living in my car right now, but if anything happened between the BF & I, I would be.

not exactly the smartest thing to be doing. not saying it cant be done, but seriously...

hate to say it, but i agree - my eyes are light sensitve anyway, those just completely blind me, making things VERY dangerous sorry Tom, those might be great for you behind the wheel, but for everyone else, they are a nightmare. I seriously suggest you adjust them down a bit so you arent completely blinding other drivers.

yes, it is very possible that the heater core is done for - not a fun job either. but, unless ALL air is burped from the system it is hard to tell. raise the front end of the car, open heat selector all the way to hot to be 100% sure it is fully circulating - burp that system thoroughly - if the air gets back into the sytem after a thorough burping, there is a crack or pinhole somewhere.... and el_freddo - you have the heat/cool thing backwards... heat expands - ie: closes gaps/cracks cool contracts - ie: opens gaps/cracks either way, if there is a crack it will suck air into the system creating problems.

you are 100% sure that it isnt getting fuel? where did you check at? before the filter, or after the filter? is the fuel pump cycling? (use D-check mode - green plugs - to confirm fuel pump operation) not sure on the 92 - but 1990 version the fuel pump relay is way up under the dash - above the interior fusepanel - so are you sure you checked/swapped the correct relay??? just trying to verify that the issue really is fuel related.

just one problem with that theory - the lever is attached to the trans - not the interior of the car - so if the dr was pulled/swapped, the lever would be missing as well.

dude - if the alignment shop told you that your struts are bad - get them replaced before you go thinking torque bind - really! bad struts can and do cause all kinds of strange and unusual things. and if you have not done them since you have owned the car - they are way over due. Recommended change interval on shocks and struts is every 50K....

This is very normal for the stock guages - not really something to worry about. if your pressure drops while driving, then you need to worry.