heartless

silly question, but did you turn the heat selector to hot when you were filling the system so that the heater core is getting filled/burped as well???? "swirling" sound under the dash says heater core to me....

not at all - waiting on you to post updates.

yeah, there are some minor missing details trying to pull the details out of my memory here - been a couple years since i messed with the EA82's... first - neither set should be plugged in for normal everyday use. Now, if i recall correctly, the green are the read memory, white is the self diagnostic (i wont swear to this, it has been a while, and someone else may correct me on this) best way to check for codes is: connect ONE set of connectors - check for codes switch connectors (unplug first set, plug second set) check for codes again. (Make note of what color plugs are being used for which codes you get) when all else fails, you can clear codes by disconnecting the battery overnight. seriously tho, by doing that you would have a fresh view of what is happening with your car. BTW - your pic is "engine side of firewall on drivers side" "engine side of firewall" = under the hood, "drivers side" = left side of car as sitting in the drivers seat. "firewall" = the "wall" separating engine compartment from passenger compartment.

drivers side fan is actually larger, so, no, they are not interchangeable

there is a full write up in the USRM that will tell you how to read, diagnose and clear codes on these cars... under "engine electrical", page 2, "Subaru ECU codes for 1983-1988" (also applies to the Loyale models)

Thanks Kara - sorry to hear about the dream that is weird! and happy belated anniversary!

my 90 AWD 4EAT wagon is at 213K and still shifts VERY smoothly - if it wasnt for the semi loud exhaust & hearing the rpm changes you would never know it was changing gears. can feel just the tiniest of bumps going from 1st to 2nd, but from there on it is silky smooth.

yeah, um, how do i say this...not gonna happen that way...the spring compressors are too large to fit up into the space near the tophats...you wont be able to get them far enough up the spring to be able to compress them enough to change the strut. this is especially true of the rears. Have the HF spring compressors here and have used them several times (multiple Subarus here) not the greatest quality of materials, but they WILL get the job done, Oil the threads to make it go easier - I dont recommend using impact tools on these - that tends to eat up the threads (yeah, been there, done that) having an extra pair of hands can be useful on this job btw...not necessary, but useful.

while the seal coming out IS an oddity - my money would be on that it didnt get properly seated - i am going to guess that this car has had the seals changed at some point previously, right? when was the last timing job?? the seals typically get changed during a timing belt replacement.

i would be interested in knowing what year? early 2.2's were on the 60K interval...

ok, when did you crawl underneath my car??? seriously - mine looked that bad too (actually, still does, havent cleaned it yet, but the leaks have been stopped) Lots of "small" leaks add up to a very ugly mess under these cars. in mine's case, it was cam covers, oil pan, oil pump, and oil seperator plate on the back - leaks were so bad that the back end of my car (as in the lift gate & back glass) had an oily/dirty film on it.... motor got pulled almost 2 months ago and got a reseal & timing job done, and got stuffed back in all in one day - actually, one afternoon. now, when i stop at the gas station it is fill the tank & check the oil, instead of check the tank and fill the oil... grab a couple cans of Engine Brite, hit the local carwash and clean things up as best you can, then keep a close eye on things to determine where your leaks are coming from.

no. much too sad...

would be better if i could see a pic of the car - but... i think... option B age 47

:( i wanna bawl my eyes out!! my baby will be leaving me tomorrow. :(

yup, sometimes that can make all the difference.

according to my 1990 FSM - this is a correct diagnosis. "Trouble code 45: Atmospheric Pressure Sensor When trouble code 45 appears on display, replace ECU" I would think that any FWD automatic ECU from 90-94 should take care of it for you. sorry i cant give you an exact part number, my car is an AWD...

using "cylinder head + red check" I found this: http://classic.artsautomotive.com/crackcheck.htm it is a chemical check for cracks. hope that helps you gain the closure you were looking for.

same reason we have them - 30 miles to the nearest place to "borrow" - not really an easy thing to do when money is tight, and gas is expensive. much cheaper to have a "cheap" set or two on hand.

oh yeah, i frequently forget that the later cars have more than one O2 sensor... mine only has one, and if it goes south, causes all sorts of running problems.

that makes perfect sense to me add actual measured clearance and the old shim together then subtract the 0.01 in (recommended clearance?) to get the required thickness of the new shim...

both O2 and knock sensor can cause serious running issues like you are experiencing. fairtax has pointed you to an excellent article on the knock sensor. too bad there isnt one as good about the O2 sensor... General rule of thumb is to start with the smallest number code and work your way up. In this case, replace both O2 and knock sensors and see how it goes.

you're welcome - i think...

Good idea.

glad to hear that swapping the injector housing seems to have fixed it for you. neither set of test plugs should be plugged in for normal daily driving. make sure your codes are cleared, either via the proper procedure as outlined in the USRM article, or by disconnecting the battery for several hours, and happy driving. by clearing codes, you will know you are looking at a "new" problem next time the light comes on, not the old one you have already fixed.

Clue number one - Check engine light is on - GET THE CODES READ!!!! Sorry, but the CEL will NOT come on for no reason - if it is on, there is a reason for it - find out that reason and fix the problem - duh. most of the large chain auto parts places can usually read the codes for you for free (places like advance auto, autozone, etc)