heartless

well, swapped out one of the parts car MAF sensors & went for a little test drive - seems to be running fine at this point. will have to see how it does tomorrow - supposed to be the hottest day yet and with storms coming thru later tonight should be good and soggy out too...oh yay. keep your fingers crossed for me!

yes, if they go to that persons profile, others can see what has been posted.

hehe, have 3 parts cars - would hope that at least one of them would be good I think this one can be cleaned - looks like to little pins with a coiled wire between them - i dunno - it doesnt look dirty at all, tho... thank you once again, Matt. For ALL your help.

i dunno what to do with it right now - about ready to take the shot gun to it to be honest. how dare it make me try to diagnose stuff in this kind of heat! got a thread going in the new gen forums, but, well...you know... :rolleyes:had 281 views on the first one w/26 posts, of which 16 were mine...

ok - went and took another set of readings for that last group with meter set to lowest ohm setting - and i did unplug the ECU for this. and yes, it is a 5 pole plug, straight line 12345 no 1 - body = no reading no 4 - body = no reading no 2 - body = no reading no 3 - body = 0.5 test leads together yields a 0.2 reading.

ok, tried to reply last night, had a great post all typed up, then our interent took a dive (storms in the area) - didnt get fixed until 9am this morning. anyway.... took about half an hour, 45 mins to figure out which box under the dash i needed to be looking at, and then which plug, and then which way the plug was numbered... wouldnt it be wonderful if they numbered the actual connectors the way they are numbered in the diagrams??? Yes, i had help taking the measurements - would be almost impossible for one person to do it alone. The other half (who is the owner of the meter) was helping. Well, went back out and took another look at this - and apparently I was looking at the connector backwards...so new readings... (B48) No. 8 - Body 10-13 V (engine off) = 12.22 13-14 V (at idle) = 14.05 (B48) No. 9 - Body 0 - 0.3 V (engine off) = 0.05 0.8 - 1.2 V (at idle) = 1.52 (B48) No. 10 - Body 0 V (engine off) = 0.02 0 V (at idle) = 0.0 Harness check between ECU & air flow sensor connectors (B48) No 8 - (B1) No 1 / 0 ohm = 0.4 (B48) No 9 - (B1) No 4 / 0 ohm = 0.4 (B48) No 10 - (B1) No 2 / 0 ohm = 0.4 Resistance between air flow sensor connector and body ** (B1) No 1 - Body / 1M ohm min = -0.003 (B1) No 4 - Body / 1M ohm min = 1.31 (B1) No 2 - Body / 1M ohm min = -0.003 (B1) No 3 - Body / 0 ohm = -0.003 ** please note - even tho the FSM does not specify to plug the ECU back in for this test sequence, that is the ONLY way we could get a reading - otherwise the previous readings stand... It is still VERY warm & humid here, and i know that those two things will affect readings, so.... opinions as to where i stand here??

well crap - problem is not the fuel pump after all - she finally gave me a CEL - after not running right for more than a week! code is for MAF - but following the testing procedures in the FSM - it is trying to make me believe that i need to replace wiring??????

cant check water levels in sealed batteries. he did post he has a redtop, which is a SEALed battery

1990 Legacy LS wagon - EJ22, 4eat, AWD - 216k + ok, starting over here - turns out the intermittent running problem was not the fuel pump - car FINALLY threw a CEL.... Code 23 - Air Flow Sensor - Abnormal voltage input entered from air flow sensor. diagnostic tree goes like this: 1. Check voltage between ECU & body ~~~ - ok - ~~~ Repair ECU terminal poor contact ~~~ - Not ok - 2. Check harness connectors between ECU ~~~ - Not Ok - ~~~ Repair Harness/connector & air flow sensor, and between air flow sensor and ground ~~~ - OK - Replace air flow sensor ok, so following the FSM directions we tested all specified connections - the results are noted on a copy of the page below... text in red are my results on the ohm readings - there was absolutely no change of the meter in any way shape or form - and we do know the meter works, tested an injector and it read fine... if i am reading all of this correctly, i need to repair/replace my wiring harness??????? or will changeing the MAF take care of the problem???

Walker??? No, no, no, you mean Jack Daniels - MMMMmmmm Jack & Ginger - nothin like it!

oh, definitely the $14 guage is much better than the $85 pump...even if you figure gas for the two hour round trip, it came out cheaper - just more frustrated now, is all... time to get that code outta the computer and see what it says, then start testing electrical components one by one...

yup, she pretty well explained it for ya... altho - i have never used that "image" button - i just copy the link from photobucket, and paste into my post - has always worked just fine. (dont use the "insert link" button either - just copy/paste ) you will have 2 options for posting to forums - you can go full size, or you can go clickable thumbnails - if you go thumbnails it makes no difference how big the pics are.

speaking of vodka... in the grocery store last night - display of vodka right next to bins of watermelons....anyone else thinking what I am thinking??? and there is absolutely nothing wrong with Jack in the bottle - but it is even better out of the bottle & in the glass.

there are pics - on the previous page...

well, welcome aboard!! and dont keep the animals waiting for pics for too long - they tend to get restless!

well, except for the thanks to Matt - scratch everything i posted earlier... (i was looking at the wrong scale on the guage ) ok, so here is the latest... checked power supply to pump - FSM says 10v minimum - got 11.4 - check fuel guage is still hooked up, plug pump back in, start car (realize was looking at wrong scale earlier - doh) ok, pressure reads 29-30 psi suddenly starts to stumble and finally stalls - fuel pressure remains steady the whole time until engine actually stalls, when pressure jumps up to around 40psi. did notice a humming sound in the engine bay after it stalled - not sure from what, but near the firewall...goes away after turning key off, does not come back with key turned back on... darn thing finally threw a code, but it was getting too dark to go any further tonight - will deal with it tomorrow

never mind....

well - finally got the right type of fuel pressure testing guage last night... got it hooked up this morning, and (edited - read wrong scale) should be 26-30psi according to FSM amazing what having the right diagnostic tools can do for you! (when you read them correctly....) also want to thank BigMattyD for all of the great info regarding the HF guage via PM - so THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!! just for grins & giggles, I am going to put the old pump back in, just to verify ....

if you are wanting to get a halfway decent finish without a lot of money (about $50) do a google for the rustoleum method - there are plenty of people that have done it (i think even Miles Fox has done this). they are NOT using spray cans, but the quarts of paint, thinned way down so it goes on smoother - takes multiple coats...from what i understand it gives a decent finish - not showroom quality or anything but pretty darn good for a daily driver. if you are wanting that "flat" look - you might try the newer "matte" finish paints - not a true flat, but not glossy either.

yup, that sounds about right for an EA82 - my old 89 GL wagon liked to run right about 3K as well. you really want to wind it up??? find a great big hill and mash that gas going down!! got mine up to about 95 once! the legacy on the other hand will hit triple digits on flat ground with no problem.

well - not too far ahead of you Kara! LOL just picked up a fuel pressure guage yesterday evening - long hot trip to wausau... disgustingly warm and muggy at 6 am here...yuck! anyway, plan is to get that hooked up to the car and see just how low the pressure really is - supposed to be in the 26-30 psi range - anything less and it is getting replaced. and yeah, electrical issues can be very evil - especially if they are intermittant....

all right! way to go.

Nah - no need to go to junk yard for me - kept the covers when we took them off (just in case ) Plus have three parts cars here in the yard!

well there ya go! the GL series did have them! all you need to do is get your hands on the rear seat set from a GL10, unbolt your old seat, bolt in the GL10 stuff - easy peasy (or it was on the Lego anyway. ) might want to get the trim pieces that go around the opening, too, cover up the exposed metal edges in that area, and possibly the trunk carpet since it will probably attach to the bottom back edge of the seat back like the wagons do.

best i can tell you is to tighten slowly - a little on each side, and try to keep them even. the HF spring compressors work ok, but DO NOT use an air gun on them - the threads will get trashed pretty easily if you do. as for how much lost using "old" springs - how do you tell if you have old springs??? seriously... struts are pretty obvious when you get them off the springs - no resistance, dont pop back out when compressed...but the springs themselves??? how do you tell?? unless they were broken, i have never changed out a set of springs for something else before - but i dont offroad either, so stock is fine for me....