heartless

dont know if that was ever an option on the GL's? (always had wagons) I know it was on the 1st gen Legacy, but that wont help you any...wider, wont fit. hopefully someone will know and chime in.

they are a pain on the back springs, too

had an 86 GL10 wagon that had headrests in the back - but you had to pull them off to lay the seat down then figure out what to do with the headrests... but yeah, the loops fit over hooks in the seat bottom for support while folded down.

ok, now you have me officially re-thinking the coverless idea - I dont even have to be driving in the crap to get snow under the hood around here - it blows in all on it's own!! (see my avatar) and i frequently have to drive thru deep snow living way out here in the boonies... :-\

fuel filter - brand new - had that thought myself.. and the pickup screens look pretty good too... fuel cap is on, always turn it enough to make it click a few times. (not sure if it matters on these or not) either the pump is weak and crapping out, or there is an electrical issue in the pump circuit... found the dang info i was hunting for finally (testing info) - was looking in the wrong section of the FSM (DOH!) :-p bad news is the weather is about to turn to crap up here - heat, humidity & COPD dont go together very well... gonna make my life tough for the next week.

have you tried this? http://www.autocolorlibrary.com/ search by make and year.

yeah, i know Tom - you are a sweetie. Really. Thanks.

so far so good on mine - have around 2500-3000 miles on it so far.

LOL - no i didnt tell him to F-off, but i didnt make any promises either - I have ZERO plans of giving those up - darn things cost me a small fortune over the years! ROFLMAO - "together time" huh??? only have to deal with that a couple of days a week around here...spend way too much time alone to be honest. he is working way too much lately - because I'm not - and i feel bad, but what the hell am i supposed to do - hold someone at gunpoint until they freakin hire me??? yeah, like thats going to work. :-\ sorry - not in a good place at the moment - car is frustrating the heck out of me, and i dont have anyone here to help me figure out what the porblem is....and it seems like i get ignored when i ask for help in the main forums...why is that?

yeah, the factory system kind of needs all four corners working for it to work correctly, so i dont think that is where you want to go. it works by monitoring how the car is sitting and adjusting as needed to maintain a predetermined "level" stance. all 4 corners are tied together, so only having the rears hooked up would not make the system happy, if you could get it to work at all that way. if you really want to use an air system, you would be better off finding some kind of aftermarket sytem and making that work (personally, i wouldnt go air, but that is my opinion). if you are just trying to correct a saggy rear condition - new shocks and possibly different springs would go a long way to fixing that and be a lot cheaper in the long run.

btw - if YOU shut off the motor after 20 minutes - you didnt pull the correct fuse. if you had, the car would have shut down in less than a minute. it is actually better to just unplug the fuel pump, then crank it over for a few seconds. it might start but will quickly stall again.

gee, i bet it would quiet down even more with 10w40 in it.... too heavy an oil will not get thru all those little tiny passages properly...

well...., it is possible - the pump i swapped in is from a FWD car that has been sitting for about 2 yrs...was a running, driving car when we got our hands on it tho... am more than willing to try this but have no idea what kind of readings I should be getting - danged if i can find any kind of values in the FSM for ANY of the sensors. Never mind - i just found the info - was looking in the wrong place! DOH! O2 was replaced last year - symptoms then were VERY different than what i am getting now...

for a low cost suggestion - what about Duplicolor's Paint Shop series??? I have read that most people get pretty good results with it - pre-reduced, ready to shoot, which means easy to use. just a thought - i have no personal experience with this product.

self etching primer is meant primarily for use on bare metal. high build primers are great for filling in minor imperfections no, you do not want to wait 2 weeks between priming and painting - primer is NOT meant to be a finish coat for any length of time - it will absorb moisture rather quickly which promotes rust - kind of defeating the purpose of refinishing

if the belt is saturated with oil (as it sounds like it might be) then YES change the belt, and all other seals in that area - in fact, do a full timing service and be good for many miles. there are some decent timing kits on ebay with everything you will you need including water pump, idler pulleys, seals - get a kit, do the service and run worry free for a while.

oil pump is near the center - oil filter attaches to it... if it is off to one side, it is probably a seal gone kaput. Pull the outer covers off to try to get a better look.

well, crap, crap, crap - swapped out the pump, get everything put back in, brand new fuel filter too - started and let it idle for about 10 minutes - no hiccups, no problems noted during this time. decided to try a test run - left car idling, grabbed my wallet and a couple netflix movies that needed to be returned - jump in the car and set out. didnt make it half a mile and it started to falter, cough and finally stalled restarted fine, turned around and came back home - it died again pulling into the driveway. so back to square one....it is a used pump, so it is possible it is also bad....that, or I have an electrical problem :-\ Hi Matt, and thanks for responding... my car had been sitting for about 4 hours and refused to start... have already determined that I need the HF guage if i am going to get any kind of fuel pressure reading and the nearest HF is an hour away. none of the local parts places sell one with a T fitting around here - all they carry are the schrader valve type - wont work. had one guy insist i HAD to have a schrader fitting on there somewhere - yeah, right, ok.... dang it all - i really cant afford this right now...

nope, thats it, just those 4 bolts. the "bracket" is in integral part of the bumper itself - you are unbolting the bracket from the subframe of the car.

i suppose it's possible, but the car had been sitting for several hours when it was time to leave and it just would not start & run right - so i dunno... did have a car once that vapor locked while driving it (not a subaru) - that sucked - but it would clear itself after sitting for a while... also have a lawnmower that will do that if it gets too warm... took the hood off it and it runs fine now! LOL

thinking i should have added one more small piece of info regarding when this problem started - it was ungodly hot (for north central WI) and fairly humid out - sunday was around 90*F and about 75-80% humidity has been much cooler & drier the last few days - mid 70's and about 40% humidity - and the car seems to run much better.... looking at ungodly hot again this coming weekend with high humidity again :-\

a good pair of hose pliers helps a lot - but first thing i do when messing with old hoses (after removing clamp) - twist to break it free, if you can get it to twist you can get it off. if the hose is in bad shape it should be replaced anyway, so on really stubborn ones i have been known to give it a little shot of penetrating oil to help break it free.

the "height control" will only work if the car still has the original air shocks installed - which i highly doubt it does...sorry.

ECU *should be* inside, under the steering column. (not all that familiar with the hatches, so i could be wrong) is this a carbed version, or SPFI?? will make a difference on trying to sort out the low idle issue, but that aside, start by checking and replacing any hard or cracked vacuum hoses. and, yeah - what ^^ he said!!

Thanks for the input John. looking at them side by side, they look very much alike - minor differences in the wiring connections - one is bent at 90* the other is straight - and the rubber mount at the bottom is slightly different, but other than that...not much noticable difference between them... guess it is time to get adventurous and give it a shot...