heartless

aw, what a waste of what appears to be a decent RX. wonder why it was sitting all by itself? somebody looking up more info on it maybe??? No, you cant save them all, but there are some that are worth the extra effort to try to save, and a true RX is one of them (unless it is so rusted out that it just wouldnt feasible) boy, do i know THAT feeling!

if you have done all of that and still have nothing, then htere is a very good possibility that the motor is dead. you can test it by running jump wires direct from the battery - remove door panel, disconnect window motor, jump wires to motor terminals, wires one way goes up, the opposite way goes down. if motor is dead, you should be able to source one from a junkyard or someone here on the board.

have used the razor blade method many many times on glass - I always scrape the the glass before attempting to do window film (tint) to make sure there is no stuck on dirt, fly speck, or anything else that could affect the way the film lays down - scrape thoroughly, then clean thoroughly with a good glass cleaner, then clean again with vinegar/water solution. Goof-off is great for getting rid of sticky residues - from old stickers, decals, etc - should also work well on the old tail-light sealant - but seriously, get as much off before hand as you can cause it will spread it around some before fully removing - the less there is to spread around, the faster it will come clean.

was for me.

prices you were quoted are right in line with what I payed to have a rear one done on my 90 Leg wagon - i think mine was about $265 or so - bearing has a 3 yr warranty on it and that is what sold me on letting them do it (that and they have better tools than i do! LOL) from what i understand the FWD kit from HF is supposed to work fairly well - but at 80-90 bucks for that - another 80 or so for the bearing...just made more sense to me to let the "pros" do it.

we got an entire set of metric offsets at good ol harbor freight - have proven useful more than once. also have a set of ASE offsets, a set each of stubbies, and a set each of S-shaped ones - all from HF. trying to buy just one - yeah, good luck.

only had one on mine - 1990 - not a lot of space to get to it.

the little red light you see under the dash is the same one used to retrieve trouble codes - it should be there. my question is this - are getting NO power to coil, or is it very weak power??? How did you determine there is no power at the coil? test light, or multi meter? (thinking out loud here) main fusable link should be ok if everything else is working - check...getting gas - check...fuses check out ok - check....not getting spark.... OK, coil bracket grounds to the fender well thru the mounting bolts - make SURE you have a good ground there - even add a wire if you need to from the bracket mounting bolts to somewhere else on the chassis - i have used one of the strut top mount bolts before. that might solve the problem - if not, we keep looking.

scrape off as much of that goop as you can with a plastic putty knife or similar tool that wont scratch the paint and then use a product like "Goof-Off" to get rid of the remaining residue. overspray on glass - use a razorblade to scrape it off - and i mean the single edge type razor blades, NOT a utility knife blade. the razor blades are thinner and will flex more than a utility knife blade will.

probably lack of space - not a lot of room between the the top of the sensor & the body of the car. I used a 22mm offset boxend wrench to change mine - maybe not the ideal solution, but it worked, had just enough offset to reach down & in to get a good grip on the sensor and it didnt cost me a penny as we already had the offset wrenches.

Welcome aboard! yes, this is the place to be for keeping your Subaru in tip top shape!

sometimes ya gotta do what ya gotta do. if the vicegrips worked that is all that matters. getting my beast running wont be a problem once i can get gas to the carb! LOL, she tried to fire off with a little shot of starting fluid. going to be replacing all of the rubber line tho - found a section that has to be 44 yrs old!! (as old as the truck!) has the old crimp type clamps on it!

yes, they "should" open, but it depends a little on the choke setup, too. automatic choke systems behave a little differently, and it is possible that an auto choke setup isnt working correctly.... hesitation can be from things being gunked up inside from sitting for a long time. there are very small passages that can get plugged up very easily.

YAY!!! :banana: my pump wont be in until tomorrow (saturday) but was pretty cheap - under $30. hoping that is all i need...

for future reference (and I am amazed that no one mentioned this before)... plug the green test connectors together (under hood near the fuel filter) and it will cycle the fuel pump on & off - key on, without the engine running, for testing purposes. I know this to be fact 'cause i used this "feature" to empty the fuel tank on my old 89 GL wagon before hauling it to the junkyard

hey, Kara - just a quick thought on the fuel delivery issue with the 'Camino... if you want to know if the pump is working, disconnect the line that goes to the carb (at the pump) and give it a quick crank over - if you have fuel there, then it is definitely a carb problem. trying to get my old Ford back up & running so i can get it up for sale - seemed like she wasnt getting any gas to the carb - yup, you guessed it, pulled the line off & no gas - bone dry in fact - pump isnt pulling at all...oh, yay...

and then they only pay attention because the buzzer is driving them crazy and they want to know how to turn it off...they dont care what the buzzer means, just make it stop! uh-oh - that doesnt sound good. possibly time for a f-disk format and re-install??

here's another article on checking for battery drain... http://automotivemileposts.com/garage/v3n2.html dont let electrical scare you - it really isnt that hard - frustrating? yes, it can be - but to be honest - who wants (or can afford) to spend 75-85 bucks an hour (that could run into the $100's very quickly) for someone else to trace down a simple wiring problem that you could find yourself armed with a little knowledge and a multimeter (and a few hours)

the steering wheel shake disappearing with moving the tire definitely means tire issue - nothing more there. the axle click is purely coincidence - you working on the rear would have absolutely nothing to do with the front axle failing - they do simply get bad over time, and a 98 with 230K - yeah, it's due...

it is very possible that they are still taped up - if thye are it will take a little poking around to find them. 1 pair of single wire green connectors, and 1 pair of single wire black connectors are what you are looking for. on mine they were slighter closer to the door frame than the steering column - and way forward - as in stand on your head under the steering column , facing front and look towards the back window! LOL

you know you want to, just do it! LOL and dont forget your carb - we can jam out to some good tunes while we rebuild...

Do you? when was it check last? today? yesterday? last week? weather changes can and will affect tire pressures. a high pressure weather system today will give a different reading than a low pressure system tomorrow. Which is why i say check it regularly! at least once a week

actually, i would bet that the Tribeca weighs more like TWO "effing" ton even the old GL's weighed more than a ton - not much more, but still more. (for those that dont know - one ton is 2000 pounds... )

Come on up - turntable is already hooked up, and got a HUGE vinyl collection to pick & choose from! (not to mention what is also on cd...)

doesnt matter if it actually knocks or not - if the knock sensor is old and cracked it can falsely lead the ecu into thinking the engine is pinging which the ecu then tries to correct for... to both of you - check tire pressures REGULARLY - low tires will kill gas mileage very quickly! even just a few psi can make a big difference. ideal pressure is in the neighborhood of 32-34 psi also, tire compound can and does make a difference - a "softer" stickier tire will cause lower fuel mileage than a harder, less sticky tire. I used to have some Cooper touring type tires - rather hard compound - got 29-30 mpg average - now have Kelly Discoverers on, softer compound but lower mileage - around 27 average...