heartless

the thickest oil i have ever run in a 4 cyl motor (of any kind) was 15w40 but, i dont claim to be an expert here...just throwing out my 2/10ths of a cent worth owners manual for the 1989 EA82, SPFI i had recommended 10w30 or 10w40 for most driving applications (some differences for regular use in extreme temps - over 100*F or under -30*F) so that is what I always used. 10w30 in winter, 10w40 in summer. I cant imagine the 1990 would be that much different. tried 5w30 once - oil pressure was almost un-noticable! it got changed out pretty quickly.

This would be better posted in the new gen forums - as a NEW post/topic...

yup, what he said ^^^ yeah, they can be loads of fun if you know how to get the most out of what you have.

welcome to the USMB! you will want to cruise thru the "New Generation" forums to read up on common issues/problems not 100% sure which years had the major problems with headgaskets (too new for me), but i think you are safe from a major problem there - i know it has been discussed in the new gen forums, so do a little lookin. oh, and we really like pics here, so lets see it!

Heck yeah! bring it on!!! zzz and it wouldnt be no 5 hours LOL - just cause it was when you came up with Tom & Miles! you guys really took a detour that trip! We can make the trip from our house to the south side of Madison in 3 hours - so add on however long it takes you to get to Madtown - i'm thinking 4 hrs tops. I can send you a much better route.

there, i fixed that for you. you are only 17, Dannoo - give it time, pay attention, watch and learn. Start small and work your way up to the big stuff. Things are lookin good T! cant wait to see some more.

whomever you rent the set from should be able to give you a little instruction on how to use it properly - ask if they dont offer - there is no shame in asking.

actually, the EA82's arent all that hard to do in car, but if you are wanting to get a look at the back side and/or reseal the oil pan, then yeah, yank it - not that hard to do honestly, if you are gonna go to the trouble of pulling, i would go ahead and get a complete gasket kit - reseal all of the "easy" stuff (no nead to touch headgaskets if they arent causing problems) but cam cases, oil pan, timing set & related seals, etc, etc... there are several discussions about the TOD and what/how to "fix" it - biggest of course being the oilpump seals. running such a heavy oil will cause it to read "good" pressure but the hydraulic lash adjusters can suffer from lack of oil - small passages - thus the TOD ... *wondering to self how the pressure would read with either 10/30 or 10/40? probably not so good.*

good idea.

so move the alternator - not hard to do. and no, you did not get the computer wet - the inside of the car would have had to be knee deep in water to do that.

they can be a bit awkward to see with the motor in the car. a mm or two - not too worried about that tiny bit - if you had said a cm or two, that is a different story...really need to get a look at the other side tho to know for sure... so why could you only see one side? is the cover being a pain to get off, or what is happening? really need to look at both ....

would depend a lot on which tranny you have 3 spd auto - yeah that is about normal 5 spd manual - then you definitely have problems - should be more like 30 (even with a DR) tire pressure will also affect fuel mileage...

billy - you need to know the backstory on this one - he went offroading right before this started - possibility that water got in the motor & the timing has jumped... see this thread for more info... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=123734

HOLY COW, Batman - what a beauty! and the digidash all works!! That has got to be the cleanest example of an EA82T ever! She's beautiful! oh, please - dont let her sit ALL the time - she needs to be taken out and driven occasionally! Take her to local car shows and stuff like that.

Hello and Welcome! not to burst your bubble or anything - but you do know that your 87 GL is no where near "fast", right?? but you do have the dual range tranny, so it does redeem itself... and what if it goes really fast and gets GOOD gas mileage??? (two wheeled terror )

Wish i was closer, i would come help cheer you on! hope the "magic juice" does what you hope it will - cant say I have ever used that stuff, but if it is highly recommended, all you can do is try it & hope for the best. oh, have a couple of rags handy to sop up any gas that might come out once you do get that fitting loose! um, really hate to say it, but this sounds more like a carb "rebuild" to me - things inside the carb are gummed up/sticking/not operating correctly - VERY possible if it has been sitting for a while.... if the fuel pump is a mechanical one (mounted on the side of the engine) those rarely fail...it does happen, but not very often. either way - you still need to get that line loose, so - carry on!

well, i can honestly say, i would not even consider this thing, but it is interesting - in a train wreck sort of way... Typed ad lists the mileage as 105K video CLEARLY shows the odo at 120K and narrator says 120K - something not quite kosher there... and after watching the video - it does seem to be a bit of a hack job - fit/finish just isnt there and really - what is with the goofy glovebox thing???

there is a writeup in the USRM about the whole thing - not exactly an easy job... applying the KISS principle here would be the best bet good body + good non-turbo motor + 5spd dual range tranny = good reliable transportation that can also have a little fun offroad.

honestly - it really isnt that hard. Sure, it can be intimidating if you have never done it, but it really isnt that hard. I did it alone first time, and second time, and every time after that. (multiple cars) First time took me a few hours - cause i kept coming back in the house to double & triple check the write up. Now, i could probably do one from start to run in about an hour, hour & a half tops (barring any problems with cover bolts that is) oh, and I'm a girl...but, not your average girl :cool:

if you are going from FWD to 4WD, yes, you will need to swap the tranny as well. but, yeah, have to agree!! GREAT Move!! hehehe my old FWD GL went pretty much anywhere i asked it too - but i didnt really take her off road - not intentionally anyway! ok deal on the parts car - have seen them cheaper, but i dont know the area you are in either...honest - we have never paid more than $250 for any of our Subarus - driver or parts!

you may not be conficent enough to try the timing by yourself yet - BUT, you CAN do a quick check pull both outer covers off so you can see the timing cam pulleys. then look at the top of the trans - there is a rubber plug at the top, just behind where motor & tranny meet - remove that plug. get a 22mm socket and either a large breaker bar, or a length of pipe to fit over the ratchet handle to give you a little more torque. you want to rotate the motor (clockwise) until you see the 3 lines on the flywheel in the little window where the plug was on the tranny. These are NOT to be mistaken for the timing marks with numbers - they will have no numbers, just three equal length lines - might take a little work to find them, but they are there. keep a rag handy to wipe the edge of the flywheel off to help you find them. Once you find those marks - line up the middle one with the built in pointer on the tranny (check the pics in the timing belt write up - 6th pic) then take a look at your cam pulleys - one pulley should have the little hole pointing straight up, the other should be pointing straight down (makes no difference at this point which is which) - if they are not - your timing is off

no problem Kara - wish i could be of more help. oh yeah - one other thing...remove any rubber bits that are real close to where you are heating - wouldnt want you to melt anything accidentally - LOL Tom, the brass filter fitting would give way before the carb body will, and that will be replaced with a new one - providing that one can get the steel line off... steel line needs to come off before the brass filter can be removed tho... kind of a dumb set up tho - steel into brass into alloy?? recipe for disaster mixing metals...

yeah, that has been tried already from previous posts. no the heat gun "shouldnt" make it go "BOOM" - think about the kind of heat that a running engine creates... You shouldnt need to get it cherry hot (actually, would not be a good idea to do that) just "running engine" hot. any piece of scrap metal large enough would help shield the steel fitting - use a pair of pliers & thick gloves to protect yourself from the heat. something about the size of a playing card at minimum should work just to satisfy my curiousity - the thing wont run right now - correct? and that is why we are trying to do some work on it? If it will run, start it up & get it good & warmed up, then try to bust that sucker free.

yeah, they have several "names", just depends on who you are talking to... it was just a suggestion...didnt know it had already been tried. puzzling now - hmmm...how can we get that puppy loose without cutting anything??? do you have access to a good heat gun? if you could apply concentrated heat to the brass portion it might expand enough to break the steel fitting loose (shield the steel fitting so it doesnt heat up as fast) normally i would use a torch for this sort of thing - but probably not a good idea on a carb!

i just wanna know one thing - is the giant cooler included???