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heartless

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Everything posted by heartless

  1. Well, glad to hear that the oil got changed and it at least runs at this point, even if it is badly. have you pulled spark plugs at all?? what do they look like? clean, light whitish or grey, or light tan = pretty normal darker colors or gunky looking = bad what does the disty cap look like inside?? are the contact points all burned & crappy looking? if so, it needs to be replaced. 163K - when was the timing done last?? or do you know? if you dont know then i highly recommend doing it - these are supposed to be done every 60,000 miles - altho it is very possible for it to go a LOT longer before showing problems - mine did... (before i learned better) belts can stretch and cause issues before they actually fail. the good news is the EA82 is non-interference so no internal problems if they do fail. for a check on the timing belts - the video is good, but there is a regular write up with photos here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50768 Same guy did both the write up and video - and believe me when i say - he is GOOD! Only problem with both of these is that he is working on things with the motor of the car - it is not necessary to pull the motor to do the timing - it is a little easier to see things with it out, but not a necessity.
  2. (grrr - database errors - grumble grump) going to state again - timing has more than likely jumped. even one tooth off can prevent it from starting. dont remember and with the errors tonight, not gonna go look - how many miles are on this car again? and seriously - get that oil drained if you havent done that yet!!!
  3. just a suggestion, and not 100% sure you can get one that big - but a brake fitting wrench (flare wrench?) might "hold" a little better - less chance of rounding it off...
  4. :lol: I just can not fathom why someone would want to put IN the digidash - most are taking them out.... Please, explain the thinking on this one???
  5. All right, both of you, just stop it. sheesh... Dannoo - if you think you might have gotten water in the engine - go out and drain the oil - NOW! do not leave it sitting in there and possibly causing rust in places you dont want rust to form. The engine will be better off sitting with no oil at all, than sitting with oil and water in it. Not to mention, we can sit and hypothisize about whether or not it has water in it till the cows come home - without draining you just dont know. Drain it, find out for sure. I would also change plugs, wires, cap & rotor - wires one at a time to make sure they are in the correct places. It is also possible that it may have jumped a tooth or two on the timing - very possible if they got wet - which could explain the no start situation - it wont fire if the timing is off - so that would be the next thing to check. there is a very good write up on EA82 timing procedures here in the USMB repair section.
  6. aww, come on guys - dont be so hard on him - we have all made mistakes/dumb moves - it is how we learn.
  7. 20 minutes is NOT long enough, sorry. Directins to clear memory from the same article: This method DOES work as long as there are no other issues needing attention.
  8. used an offset wrench to do mine - unplug the sesnor, feed the wire thru the wrench and break it loose. not sure how well a socket would work with the wires....
  9. yes, they are different between manual and automatic, and yes, you need a switch for the clutch pedal - sorry dude, need to try to find a manual with the cruise and get a few more items.
  10. first, check for child safety switches - usually located on the edge of the door, for rear doors, just under where the door curves to clear the wheel well. will be just a small switch that will slide back & forth. one way prevents doors from opening from the inside, the other allows it. if there are no child safety switches, then pull the door panel off and check for looseness in the linkages.
  11. grab that dual range and rear diff!! matching set, no worries - dont let that go to the crusher. and snag the center console pieces, too, for the shift levers...
  12. that is a little different than telling someone that the stock engine wont push 27's around so, are we hearing only what we want to hear, here? or is someone jumping to conclusions with only partial information and/or assuming things? hmmmmm :-\ really beginning to wonder if OP is looking for any excuse to ditch the Subaru and go get a 4 runner.... really starting to sound that way to me.
  13. ok, yeah, that would make perfect sense - bent backing plate rubbing. (duh! ) yup, pull the wheel one more time and check for clearance on the backing plate. any spot that looks close, bend it back a little - make sure when you bend one spot, it doesnt create another elsewhere.
  14. hmmm??? weird... did the little clips that hold the pads get lubricated? both sides (or does this one even have the little thin metal clips?) I usually lube up all contact points with either the brake lube, or antisieze (except for the pad face/rotors of course) and never hear any "chirping" until the "squealer" comes into play & it's time to change pads again - so very puzzled with yours...
  15. I would never knock the 3AT, Tom - after all, we did own a trouble free one here, too, until just recently. the comment I made previously was just repeating the general consensus here.
  16. with a dual range tranny and a lift/bigger tires (you need the lo range with the bigger tires), yeah, you would be fine to go play. In fact, it might even help you be a better driver off road, as you would need to learn how to handle stuff less with hp and more with torque & driving technique. See, too many think "more hp" is the answer to everything - it isnt. period. learning proper technique (driver skill) and how to use the torque/hp your vehicle does have will get you a lot further than you think it will.
  17. All right you two - just stop it! If i had thought for even one minute that there would be hard feelings caused by all of that crap, I would never have agreed to the deal (or convinced Marc to agree to it) in the first place! Dang it all! I really detest the bickering going on here - makes me wish i had not agreed to the deal and just suffered with my leaking motor - so can we PLEASE, just kiss & make up here?? Pretty please? It's just a bunch of parts for cryin out loud - not worth damaging friendships over!!! :-\
  18. yr & model please?? different yrs and models have slight differences in clutch setup
  19. my personal choice would be 90-96 non-interference 2.2 AWD Legacy/Outback wagon - about the most reliable of the bunch and with no chance of internal damage if a T-belt does go south. trans - i would prefer the 5 speed myself - slightly better fuel mileage - but the 4EAT is a good trans (my current car has one & I cant drive a manual right now, had surgery on clutch foot) but that is my personal opinion.
  20. from 1990 FSM flexplate/flywheel mounting bolts 58 - 62 ft lbs flexplate to torque convertor 17-20 ft lbs.
  21. ok, lets back up for just a minute. I know you said there is no check engine light on - as in on steady... first, does the CEL come on for the test function when you turn the key to the "on" position?? if the CEL does not come on for test function, then you need to get a new bulb in there... if yes, (and even if no) i think we need to try reading codes to see if there is something stored in there - it is possible for it to throw an intermittant light that you can miss seeing while driving. link for code reading: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918 codes are read at the ECU - under the steering column - via a red LED in the unit. you will need to remove the lower panel from under the dash to see it. i recommend having a pen & notepad handy for writing down the codes as they are flashed start by checking for current codes with no test connectors plugged in - turn key to "on" position (do not start) and watch the led for flashed codes - after you check that you will then need to plug in the "read memory" connectors that should be located under the hood - drivers side up close to the firewall behind the strut tower - very close to the fuel filter - the ones you want i believe are the green ones - a single wire with green connector - there should be a pair - 1 male, 1 female - plug those together, again, turn the key to the on position (do not start), and read the number of long and short flashes from the LED on the ECU - if there are multiple codes, there will be a longer pause between codes, and it will cycle thru all of them repeatedly until you turn the key off so let it do its thing while you make sure you have everything. note - if no real codes are stored, it will give a series of steady flashes (all the same length) 7 - 9 of them, pause and repeat longer flashes stand for 10, short flashes are 1 there are examples given in the above link... do this and report back what is found.
  22. keep in mind - this car is a 3 speed automatic w/pushbutton 4whl - not the greatest tranny ever built - and it does just fine with the bigger tires - right Tom?
  23. Who told you that??? surely not anyone here? your fuel mileage will definitely suffer, but it will run at freeway speeds fine. it can, and has, been done... many times over... yup - if you have a manual tranny already, then it is pretty easy - but you will definitely want the console section out of the donor car for the range selector - you dont really need the whole thing, just the boot section/front half. if you need a clutch (or are close to needing one) do it while things are out since you will have access anyway & dont forget about the bearings (pilot & throwout) Seriously - if you were closer, i would be happy to help - but there is a good 1800-2000 miles difference here - I am in Wisconsin. :-\
  24. yes, the DO give codes for misfire - been there, done that. If it is still throwing an o2 code there is something going on with it that the ecu doesnt like - and it will affect fuel mileage. just out of curiosity - have you changed the knock sensor at all?
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