heartless

that visual is just too funny!

said it before, & i will say it one more time... This is NOT an instant gratification project! At age 17, you need to learn patience - first and foremost. unless you have a ton of money laying around burning to get spent, yeah, it will take time to get everything together - and no, it wont be "cheap" but it will be very satisfying gathering up the things you will need a piece at a time - over time - and finally getting it all put together. (and it WILL be cheaper to maintain after it is all together...) Like Miles said - go for the lift now, even the 6 lug thing is do-able pretty quickly - then drive the snot out of it while you collect all the bits & pieces for the EJ swap. One thing at a time kid.

Miles - there were absolutely NO Legacy/Outback parts in all of that - only EA82 stuff, so the only thing listed here in the USMB classifieds that could even remotely be from that pile is the am/fm unit... I dont want to start a war/squabbles here, but - from what i saw, Miles did pay for the stuff so he should have say over what happens with it. OK? Please?

it is an interesting video - but - keep in mind that it was made with affiliation to Subaru to impress the "general public" with the Subaru AWD system. I would be more impressed if it was done independantly - IE: no affiliations with ANY automakers and the results were still as shown. that said, gotta love that the Legacy could climb with supposedly only one wheel getting traction. (we dont get to see both sides at once so it is hard to say if it really was only one wheel)

crazyeights has given you some very good resources for info - use them, read them, then read them again. I would recommend you do things in stages - a little at a time so you dont get overwhelmed. no one has a magic wand they can wave and have it done instantly - it takes time, energy and resources to create what you want. Decide which of those 3 things you listed you want first, and then do that. Once you have that item done and everything is operating smoothly & reliably, then do the next thing, have that operating smoothly and reliably, and so on. This is NOT an instant gratification type project you are looking at. Be prepared to put a lot of time and effort into it - there will be days that you get so frustrated with it that you will want to just chuck it all - walk away for a day or two, then go back to it with a clear head. You CAN do this, but it will take time. If you want it all "right now" - go buy one that is already done - but that wont give you the satisfaction of learning how and actually doing it yourself, and that is the best part.

Marc says most of the wheeling he did was on the western side of the state - Sauk City, Black River Falls, even out at Fort McCoy - but the outings were organized by the club with proper permissions and what not obtained ahead of time. he also says to get hold of a club and find out where they go

he dont know me very well, do he?? LOL thats what hydralics & slide hammers are for.

it has been a few years, but i believe the ones you want for reading stored codes are the green ones altho i could be wrong - like i said, been a few years best thing I can tell you is to pull that lower dash cover and leave it off for a few days. when you are out and about and it throws a CEL at you, turn the engine off and see if you can get any codes with no connectors plugged together (for current issues) then do again with the "read memory" connectors plugged in to get stored codes. the large plugs are not used or needed for this.

who said anything about bondo??? I oughtta Gibbs slap you for that...... bondo - no, i am talking about straightening out the metal more than it is. just needs a little finessing.

should make no difference if it is wagon or sedan - motor is the same for all intents and purposes. there are some minor differences between manual and automatic - like the fuel injectors - for some reason they are different between automatic and manual

do you have a photobucket or similar account?? (online picture hosting) if not open one - photobucket is free, as are several others upload your pics to your pic account there, then use the link for message boards to post here (copy link and paste into your post here) or if it would be easier you can email them to me and i can post them for you - your choice heartless500 at gmail dot com

ok, no fighting over the parts boys -

hehe, you can bring it up here and i will do body work - you have to do the paint tho. i bet i could fix that left rear corner on TW10 a bit better, too...

you must have a dark cloud hanging over you - sorry to hear about the same problem...honestly have never heard of problems leaking - power issues, yes, but leaking, no is this "cylinder" part of the ABS unit? can you possibly get pictures?

yeah - uh, Haynes/Chiltons books are ok for basic stuff, but i dont really trust them for the more specific things...like torque specs and brake bleed sequence. Kara - if you plan on keeping that car for a while, i would highly recommend trying to get your hands on a FSM for it (Factory Service Manual) check ebay regularly - they do show up there from time to time, or possibly craigslist....do NOT get fooled into buying a cd type manual - they are no better than haynes or chiltons you dont necessarily need everything if it comes in multiple volumes like my 90 set does - chassis, engine, and electrical will cover most everything the home mechanic needs - maybe the tranny one if you want to get into that stuff.

i cant say i know of them personally, but Marc used to belong to a 4x4 club down in madtown.... and come on - we have places like the dells, and gobs of forest land - there has to be some good wheeling out there somewhere...

no need to be sorry - we were all pretty much in your shoes once upon a time. asking is how we learn. you have the right attitude - learn how yourself and save yourself both time and money in the long run. I am 47 and still learning things yes, the EJ22 is out of the Legacy lineup - 1990 thru early 1996 are non-interference, meaning if you break the timing belt there is no internal damage. throw a new timing set at it and off you go. late 96 (97 my) and beyond are interference - they can, and usually do, have internal damage if they break a belt, so my vote goes to the earlier ones - just my preference tho. ( btw - NA stands for "naturally aspirated" - meaning non-turbo) where you get one depends a lot on your area - if you have a pull-n-save - go for it - not all of us are that lucky. heck, the junkyards around here dont keep much of anything beyond 10 yrs old! so finding parts for our older cars is no easy job. honestly - for your learning purposes, i would just stick with what you have for the moment - get to know it well, take care of it and save your pennies for future upgrades. even tho it is not a big power house, that old Loyale can be a lot of fun, and it will be cheaper to run that your buddy's 4 runners will be do your homework on the lift stuff - there have been a lot of guys that have done it before you - learn from them what works and what doesnt. read, read, read some more - ask questions if something isnt clear to you. then read some more. i know - a lot of reading - but you can learn a lot by reading carefully, make sure you understand what you are reading. it will pay off in the end.

google is my friend typed in "2001 Subaru brake bleeding order".... the post i quoted was like the second or third thing down...

Just so you know, the EA82 turbos are not looked upon fondly - they tend to be more trouble than they are worth and not that much more HP... (just do a search on EA82T - you will see what i mean) if you REALLY want to get more HP - upgrade to a NA EJ22 - excellent motor, easy to work on, readily available and there is an adapter plate for the tranny already out there for doing the swap - does require a bit of wiring work tho.

oops - forgot where i was for a moment! I was thinking more like located in WI - I just KNOW we have some good places here for wheeling :confused: in June???? (and it is spelled Burl - no "e")

go to look at it with your eyes open - do not be blinded by looks at a distance. poke and pick it apart! like already mentioned, check under the carpeting for moisture evidence/smell likely locations for rust: back sides of the wheel wells are usually good for rust - the very back & bottom of the rear fenders - bottoms of doors - rocker panels - bottom edge of rear hatch (the part not visible with it closed) - around door handles - check carefully around windshield for signs of bubbling/rust - also around rear window - along any/all exterior trim, too under hood: battery tray area - strut/shock towers - do the 84's carry the spare under hood? if so, check that area thoroughly. interior: is it clean? filthy? smell funny? look carefully between seats and center console - if it was a hurry up clean up job, there will be evidence of ickiness there. does the wear seem appropriate for the miles/age of the car? is anything broken, torn, missing? if you go into this expecting to find something wrong, you can be mildly surprised by not finding things - but dont get carried away with the surprise (poker face ) you might want to take a smallish magnet with you too - check for bondo body work - a typical fridge magnet will work - if it sticks strong, it is good metal, if it wont stick at all - thick bondo - sort of sticks but not very well, thinner bondo... only need to do this if the paint doesnt seem to be as old as the car - looks too good to be as old as the car - or has obviously been touched up.

Miles - if you can get me a good, clear picture of your 3 door i can photoshop up some mock ups for you to get an idea of what it would look like with different configurations...the larger the file size the better too...

ok, just did a little bit of searching via google and found this: so there ya go - i learned something new today - the day has not been a total loss.

well, yeah, there is that - this car is a little too new for me!

FSM lists 3 spark plug brands and Bosch is NOT one of them. First and preferred - NGK 2nd - Nippondenso 3rd and only if you cannot get either of the other 2 - Champion. proper gap is a must. Good quality wires also a must Yes - if car is AWD, tires MUST be of matching size and wear all around to avoid damage to the AWD system - not quite as critical on a FWD... So you are saying that when you turn the key to the "on" position (without starting it) that the "check engine" light does not light up? if that is the case you need to get a new bulb in there and try again - betting that there are stored codes that would love to be read....but you need a functioning light to do so.