heartless

you dont have anything to lose by bleeding the system again (other than a little brake fluid) just make sure it is done in the proper order - and i would do all four corners, just to be sure. i believe the correct order is RR, LF, LR, RF - Subaru uses a diagonal system (1 front & opposite rear) -vs- the old front/rear system, and generally speaking you start with the one farthest from the master cylinder. If I am incorrect - please - somebody correct me!

well darn - sorry to hear you are still having issues with the o2... where to start? start by physically inspecting the wires for chaffing or melted spots beginning at the o2 sensor and working your way back - also make sure the plug is clean and making good contact. If you have a multi meter you can use that to check continuity and such... I have most of a set of FSM's for this year - I can try looking up spec numbers for you... edit - well cant find any specific numbers for the o2 sensor ... i tried...

if your buddy is even a little bit mechanically inclined, you & he can handle the timing job - there is a very good writeup here at the USMB - and Miles Fox has some GREAT videos on the 'tube that practically hold your hand to do this job. It is NOT hard You just need all the correct parts: belt, pulleys, waterpump, t-stat & seals, and a couple gallons of 50/50 premixed antifreeze and you can do the job in just a couple of hours. Seriously - if a "girl" can do it - so can you & your buddy (gonna take me up on the challenge?? ) Parts will cost you in the neighborhood of $120-150, depending on where you order from, and shipping costs to your location. A little more if you do an oil change & basic tune-up at the same time.

Hi and Welcome to the USMB. you will want to do a bit of searching - mostly in "older gen" as that is where your Loyale falls, and probably in the "off roading" section as well. Just be aware that you will not get a lot of horsepower out of your Loyale - not what they were designed for, you can, however, keep up with your "buds" on the trails (and maybe even outdo them) if you take the time to do things right. Learn to use the search function - it is your friend - and most of all have fun! oh, and be patient - it takes more than 10 minutes to get an answer - especially at 1:30 in the morning....

as for WCSS - not very likely here either - we need to organize a MWSS instead! Indiana, Illinios, Iowa, Minnesota, Wisconsin & Michigan as the primary suspects...the Dakota's, Ohio, etc, if they want to make the journey... Would just need to find a suitable location - plenty of camping, a good wheeling spot or two, that sort of thing.

Hmm, maybe we should get you some viagra, Tom?? shouldnt take you days to "get it up" :grin:

^^^ What he said! Nip, i know you are on LI - how is the "rust" situation out there?? really gonna try my best to get to 350-400K before the rust mosnter gets mine.

price is always subjective - a lot depends on the area, availability, condition, and so on. without actually seeing/inspecting the car, driving the car, and knowing more about the area you live in (are these common, uncommon, etc) it is really hard to say what is a "fair price" yeah, it sounds like a nice ride and very low mileage for its age...but what physical condition is it in? does the current owner have maintenance records? how long have they owned it? a good clean, rust free car would bring very good money here in Wisconsin - but a fraction of that in WA/OR where they are fairly common

hello brian, and welcome to the USMB. it is now time for you to get real familiar with your Subaru and become one with it. to get an idea of what the check engine light is trying to tell you, start here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918 not 100% sure on your 90 Loyale, but i think the test connectors are located under the hood behind the drivers side strut tower (close to the firewall) cluster of wires with single connector ends in black green and white pairs - they should not be connected for normal use. If they are not there, then they will be under the drivers side dash, between steering column and door frame - you will need the lower cover removed to access them.... the flashing light will be below the drivers side dash - you will need to remove the lower cover to see it - several screws and a snap clip to the lower steering column and it is off. get the codes that are stored in the ECU and report back.

I really like this shot... Goodbye little 3 dr, you are missed already, but i know you are in good hands...

well, the choice is entirely up to you but... my 1990 Legacy LS wagon has 211,690+ - just did a complete reseal & timing job on her this past weekend with a little help from friends and plan on driving her to at least 350K the other half also has a 1990 Legacy that has about 265K on it and still going strong... both are the non-interference EJ22's. Rust will be the killer of these two cars as we live in Wisconsin personally, i would put whatever money you have to into the one you have - it is a known quantity. Buying another used car you have no idea of how it was treated and you could end up spending a lot more getting it up to snuff. just my 2/10 of a cent worth.

When you say "universal" did you get the one that had the plug-in on it already, or did you have to cut the plug off your old one and splice it on? if you got the one you have to splice the plug on yourself - go get the other one with a new plug on it already. My 90 lego threw an o2 sensor code, i bought the bosch replacement that has the plug on it and have had no further problems from that. I suppose it is possible that your cold starting issues are causing the continued o2 problems tho...

just a little tip on vehicle mileage - average is roughly 10,000 per year that 2007 w/85K is more like 25,000 a year - that is a lot of miles per year an average 2007 should be somewhere between 30 & 40,000 right now, maybe as much as 50,000 - any more than that....eh, i would need to see ALL service records documenting exceptional care to consider buying it.

from what info i was able to gather, 90, 91 & 92 should all be aluminum. they started using the plastic in 93, so some may be aluminum, some may be plastic - they continused using the plastic for many years and only fairly recently went to the stamped steel one. but yeah, the only way to know for sure is to pull the motor - as many of the original plastic ones have been swapped out for metal by now.

re the fogging oil - if it wasnt ok it wouldnt be on the can. I personally have never used it in the air intake, but that doesnt mean you cant, or shouldnt. I have used it to lubricate and protect upper cylinders and it does work for it's intended purpose... on the fuel - either full or empty - half tank is very bad.

the aluminum ones will leak as well. but 21 yrs, and 211,500 miles - yeah, i would expect a few leaks. so, yeah - 1990 at least has aluminum plate. motor got pulled yesterday, pretty much everything got resealed and it got stuffed back in, still have a few minor things to finish up, but hopefully the massive oil leaks have been stopped - a quart of oil a week was getting expensive (and i dont do that much driving!)

Yeah, the Safariwagon is very sweet - but it also has a lot of time and effort put into it to make it that way. Much as i miss my old GL wagon at times, i think i will keep my Legacy - a few more "creature comforts" and i'm not really into the offorad thing so it works for me. Just wish we had even a few of those nice, rust free babies around here Good luck on the search!

hehe, that first one was pretty sweet looking - too bad it has the carb... second one was deleted by the time i got to go look - did you snap it up? or what?

personally, i would walk away - 2 accidents, evidence of a bad wiring hack job, and possible bad tow job...eh, not for me...not at any price. there are other Subarus that have been treated better out there just my two/tenths of a cent worth.

go to an independant shop and ask them to do an inspection on the front end - most GOOD independant shops do not charge for a simple inspection, or at most maybe $20-25 just to take a look at it to cover the time of the tech. looking it over. Should only take a few minutes to find out what needs to be done. You are NOT getting an alignment at this point - just an inspection.

do you have a check engine light either all the time, or when it starts acting up??? if you do, then you need to get the codes out - that should give you a lead on what the problem is. Many of the larger chain parts stores (advance, autozone, etc) will read codes for you and give you a printout of what is found - for FREE. just taking a stab in the dark - sounds kind of like O2 sensor - but to know for sure, get your codes read.

without getting out the micrometer (which i can do if you like), no, i cant tell just by looking if they are up to spec - but they do all appear to have the tension spring, and they do all have the expected rigidity - which, if i was reading your original complaint correctly, the part you got did not have. And for the record, Yes, I would check on something if it didnt seem quite right - but I dont work in a "busy" shop either. I can understand your frustration with the situation, and yeah, it probably did you cost you more than $40 to get it resolved, i guess i am just playing devils advocate if you will - one bad seal out of how many hundreds??? it happens. do you think NAPA or O'Riellys or any other parts store would refund you $40 for a bad seal - i kind of doubt it - you might get the cost of the seal, but nothing more, so in that respect, you were treated more than fairly by the supplier. I appreciate the good luck wishes, as yes, i may just need them. Have a great weekend.

THANK YOU, GENTLEMEN! (yes GD, I include you in that statement ) you have just made my day. Mike, thank you for that link - funny, i did not get that particular thread in my searches

a little while back i did call the "local" dealer about this and was told "I think yours is metal" (they did NOT impress me one bit - as in if it is older than 98 forgetaboutit...) i did find a video by someone named Justin @ All Wheel Drive Auto "explaining" about the seperator plate and it was stated very clearly that the first couple years were aluminum, then they went to the plastic, then finally to the stamped steel replacement. Do I trust this info? I would really like to get verification on this info from members here that have gotten into one of these...please?

anything is possible, but in this case, not necessarily probable... I would also suspect worn componants, tie rod ends, ball joint, bad strut, bushings to a lesser degree (unless they are very obviously falling apart) my personal opinion - get a second opinion at a reputable independant shop - i personally do not "trust" dealers 100% - but that is me.