heartless

exactly the reason I took Cherry in...I can do it, but didnt feel up to the fight, the skinned knuckles, the furstration/aggrivation, etc. Not to mention the shop has all the correct needed tools - I would have had to either buy or rent more tools...added cost... did you get a quote on cost yet? just curious about the cost difference between east coast & midwest...

I've said it before, I'll say it again... Costs WILL vary depending on location! This just proves that point.

just had one replaced on my car - rural Wisconsin - was just under $300 including a premium bearing w/3 yr warranty ($94 just for that), all seals and labor, and she did put up a fight due to rust...

yes, you will need the tophats (top mount) for the 90-91 legacy (makes no difference between sedan & wagon, they are the same), non-air suspension. oh yeah - the rear mounts are kind of a pain to get to - under the rear speakers...pop the speaker cover off, remove speaker, then you can get to the strut mounts... I ended up getting complete used strut assemblies that inluded the springs - forget who we got them from, but was about $80 shipped to me (no jy's around here keep anything older than 10 yrs) from there you can get whichever strut/spring combo you like/will work. to get rid of the ride height button flashing at you - you need to unplug the box under the drivers seat - small one - easiest to get to if you pull the seat out, only 4 bolts...i seem to recall it was a royal pain to get to with the seat still in.

hi baltimore! I had to convert my Legacy LS wagon to coilovers too, due to blown air struts - it isnt hard at all. I went with stock style struts, so I cant really help you with what will work for added lift... 1. disconnect the air controller - it is under the driver's seat (make sure you get the right one - the TCU is under there, too, if I recall correctly) (1a. cant remember exactly, but you may need to disconnect the electric for the air compressor - it lives behind the drivers side fender between the lights and wheel well.) 2. disconnect the air & electric lines at each strut 3. remove the air struts and replace with the coilovers. You will need to get the appropriate tophats - the ones from the airstruts wont work I just left the compressor inside the fender - it was gonna be a pain to get to it to remove it...it doesnt hurt anything to leave it. good luck.

no, I really was talking about you, Scott... :lol: hehehe that "fox character" really is a pretty good guy to know when it comes to subaru's tho.

Welcome! unfortunately the tire selection in the 13" range is VERY limited. best option is to find a set of pugs in the 14" size (pug = peugot - same bolt pattern on the older ones as your stock Subaru wheels) - gives you a wider range of tire options, and a smidge more ground clearance just by putting different wheels/tires on - no other modifications needed. do some browsing around here and you will see many.

hi there, and welcome to the USMB! might be able to come up with some wiring diagrams later if i do a little digging - about to head into town right now - or someone else may pipe up and get you pointed in the right direction. you might try doing a search and/or taking a look in the USRM - might be something there. as for your questions & where to post - either the "older gen" section or in the "subaru modifications" area - not sure which of the two subforums would be appropriate tho... again, welcome aboard - and be patient - not a lot of the "guru's" check in here.

honestly, i have no idea if the newer ones are made by bosch or not - the old one on my 90 was a bosch (only have one & it was 20 yrs old...) - had more vanes in it than the aftermarket bosch replacement, but it seems to be perfectly happy with the new one - even increased my fuel mileage by a couple miles per gallon. seems to me it is recommended to replace them every 100K or so...but i usually go with the "if it aint broke, dont fix it" theory on that kind of stuff.

Tom - truck stops in your neck of the woods are south of the 894 on 94 - Oak Creek area and south... exit 322 - Ryan Rd - has a Pilot and something else - might find the different bulbs and/or covers there (west side of freeway) exit 333 - Washington Ave - has a smaller Petro - they would probably have a lot of the lighting alternatives (again, west side of freeway) Or....on your way up this way (hint, hint) there is an even bigger Petro at exit 108

this might help as well - Skip's engine removal page It is actually for the 2.5, but the basic steps should be pretty similar as far as pulling the motor and he has pics!

LOL - olnick - I have that very same thread bookmarked! seem to recall the other one you are thinking of, but darn if I can remember who/where, etc either...it sucks getting old... jensen - congrats on finding the motor & stuff - and at a good price, too! if your car is an auto, be real careful about the torque converter (there is more about that in that thread olnick posted) - if it is a manual, check the clutch & stuff - if it is pretty worn, might as well replace it while you have the access. Good Luck & keep us posted!

dont know how/where it is placed on the 99's, but on my 90 all i needed was a 22mm offset boxend wrench - was pretty easy actually. Looked like it could be a pain, but it really wasnt. mine sits right in the crotch of the "Y" going into the cat. go get that code read again - it may, or may not be the O2 sensor again - best to make sure. Seems I have read where the newer models (with 2 sensors) have issues being too strict on the tolerances between front & back and an anti-fouler can usually take care of the problem - perhaps do a search on that to get more info...

hey! another Wisconsinite!! :banana: Welcome to the greatest site on the net!! There are several members down in your neck of the woods - one of whom is an absolute genius with Subarus (shhh!! dont tell him i said that! LOL) I am about 3.5-4 hours north of you...

well, darn - had to try tho.

just a quick note on the "splice in" O2 sensors - if there is a problem with the wiring end of the sensor, chances are the splice in unit will not fix the problem. I went and got the Bosch direct fit replacement for my car - it was a few bucks more than the splice in unit, but I dont have to worry about the wiring itself...(and the wires on my old sensor were looking a little rough...) just a thought...

ok, here is a wiring diagram for the AC system from a 1990 FSM - it looks like it could be the yellow wire you need to use... warning - LARGE file!

when my O2 went on my 90 Lego it did throw a CEL but only briefly - it came on, it went off - did not come on & stay on - so it is possible that you missed a light...I was looking for a CEL is the only reason I caught mine. And, yes, it was only after the car was fully warmed up - initially 30-40 mins of driving, gradually getting shorter in time to when it would act up. my car ran like crap - cough, spit, sputter, acted like it was only running on 2 cylinders, etc...if yours is only "missing" a little, it may be early stages of failure. might try doing a code read to see if there is anything stored in there. you say you installed new plugs/wires - what kind??? as already mentioned it DOES make a difference. NGK BKR6E-11 plugs gapped at .039 - .043 in, good quality wires - most will tell you Subaru wires, I personally have not had any problems with aftermarkets, but problems have been documented...

Aww, sorry to hear that your car got smucked - that sucks - BUT, hearing that it will be resurrected is good! you wouldnt have a cargo cover, would you??

gurgling thru the heater core is a definite trapped air giveaway... get the front end up in the air a bit (ramps or jackstands) and use your funnel gizmo again. host a BBQ, huh??? hmmm....maybe a "working" bbq??? hehehe

Welcome to the USMB and congrats on your first Subaru! and Thank You for your service. Please come home safe! depending on mileage, you may want to do a timing belt service on her as well as basic tuneup. If she is AWD make sure your tires are all the same brand, style and of equal wear and pressure! the AWD system is a bit picky about that sort of thing. There are lots of members out in that part of the country so when you do get home you should be able to find a few new friends as well to go along with your new (to you) Subaru.

if the car is sitting still the suspension isnt "working" - ie: absorbing bumps, therefore it IS possible for it to remain fully inflated - but start moving, the suspension starts working and the leak in the system becomes evident... see grossgary's posts...

see, thats the thing with these old Subaru's - sometimes you need to put a little bit of money into them to correct the neglect from previous owners, but once you do put that money in, it is fixed, and good for a LONG time... look at it this way... you can put a few bucks into fixing what you already have & know about and have a KNOWN good car OR Put money into buying another car - with unknown maintenance issues which may end up costing you even more money... Personally, I go with fixing what you have nearly every time - in the long run it is actually cheaper. "Oil leaks" with a Subaru are SUPER common - they dont leak, they mark thier territory!! is the oil dripping from the head - or - the cam case covers?? either way - unless it is gushing outta there, i wouldnt worry that much about it getting new exhaust studs put in shouldnt cost that much - at least it wouldnt around here - maybe $20-25 or so - big deal. which trans does it have?? Is it having problems?? unless it is having a problem, who cares how old it is?? I have a PU that is 43 yrs old and has the original trans that has never been touched and it is fine... filters are cheap and easy.... you have had an offer for the glass you need...I know for a fact that Auto Glass Specialists can and do pull/install glass for cheap - $50 out, $50 in - been there done that. In my case they had to pull the replacement glass from one of our parts cars and install it into my DD...in your case it may be even cheaper if you have the glass already pulled and ready to install. so - all that said, i havent seen or heard anything that would make me get rid of the car - put a couple hundred into it and it will keep on going... or, spend several hundred on "replacing" it, and end up spending even more fixing problems with the replacement... just an example - I bought my first Subaru - an 89 GL wagon, FWD, 5 spd w/142K miles - for $150. I spent about $1100 fixing the things that needed fixing and/or replacing right off the bat and I drove that car for nearly 8 years with little more than basic maintenance after that. Not counting gas and oil changes I estimate that I only spent about $1600 total on repairs & maintenance (includes a couple sets of tires, too) on that car over the 8 years...that is only $200 a year - find me another car that can claim that low of ownership costs... (btw - that car was still running great when i hauled her away at 265K miles - the body was shot - severe rust -and wasnt safe anymore - otherwise she would still be around!) just think about it before you go giving up on your Subaru....

yup - from the description given of the original engine - replace it! if it was overheated to the point of melting things on the outside, then the internals are seriously cooked as well and very prone to catastrophic failure. just yank that puppy outta there and replace it with one that hasnt been so seriously abused. Yes, these are tough engines, BUT with that kind of abuse - uh, no... go get the other engine - do a timing belt service (belt, pulleys, waterpump, seals, etc) drop it in the car and you should be good to go for many miles.

sorry to hear, man - if you were closer we could hook you up with a decent motor - have a couple of parts cars out in the yard. keep your eyes open, who knows, maybe you will find that gem yet!