heartless

are you gonna sell Bucky back to her??

yeah - thats the stuff! works very well on motorcycle windshields too.

I admit I was hesitant to do it too, thinking "what if I screw it up?" the first ones I tried were on the work truck - they were extremely bad (the lens was as yellow as our little yellow smilies!!) & the boss was talking about getting new ones for it (he thought the yellowing was on the inside) - I asked him to let me try 'polishing' first. the scariest moment was after the first few swipes with the sand paper and seeing the scratches - OMG - but I forged ahead, working progressively finer & finer - the big thing is to keep it WET! and work each grit until you can no longer see the scratches from the previous grit (tip: working in opposite directions w/each grit really helps - up/down w/one, side/side w/next, then up/down w/next again - final grit i worked in circles) rinse thoroughly after final grit - Yes, it will still be very scratched looking - you're thinking "crap, i really screwed up now" - guess again - good old fashioned polishing compound (i used the ol standby "Turtle Wax" brand - buck fifty to two fifty a can depending on your location) damp (not soaking wet) cloth, generous amount of compound and start rubbing in a circular motion (wax on, wax off! hehe), work until it feels nice & smooth - then work a little more - buff off residue with a clean dry cloth. I did follow the polishing compound with some plastic polish - either maguires scratch x or plast-x work very well - just like using wax on the body of the car - it helps to seal the lens and keep it looking good longer. the results are simply amazing! and a fraction of the cost of replacing, or even the flitz stuff (sorry, not to knock the product, but it isnt exactly cheap for those on really tight budgets - $50 for a Flitz headlight kit -vs- maybe $12 for a few shts of wet/dry paper, the polishing compound & the plastic polish)

dammit GD - you have got to stop it - I am gonna ruin my keyboard with all the :slobber: !!! looks like a keeper for sure!

the resistor pack going bad will still allow the blower to function on the highest setting - if he has no function at all, it is likely a different problem...

Excellent analogy!! certainly made it much clearer to me.

We happen to have a 1974 CL 360 Scrambler - i can take some measurements if you would like....

my ride is a 1984 KZ550 LTD - hasnt seen much riding in a while - started to repaint/redo the fuel tank to take care of a little bit of rust that was starting & havent gotten it finished yet...but will be awesome when it is done! The other half's ride (madkow) - 1981 Honda V-45 750 Magna We also have a 1985 Kawasaki Voyager 1300, a 1981 Yamaha Maxim - 1100, and last but not least - a 1974 Honda CL 360 Scrambler - learned to ride on that last one! Fun little bike!

Very nice looking wagon - altho it could do with a little bit of a lift & a nice roof rack! but priorities - needs to be running first i spose...

you should make a list, check it twice and POST it!!!

my old wagon would barely register when fully warmed up at idle - would read around 35-40 at highway speeds...50+ on cold start up

supposedly, yes, but it doesnt always happen that way. MY 89 GL had a similar issue once - alt overcharging - 18v! - and it didnt pop any fuses or fuse links - ran as many accessories as I could to get it home (heat full blast, headlights, foglights, etc) - lucky me had a spare alt just waiting to be dropped in. what do you consider "sky high" on the oil pressure?? fwiw - the stock oil pressure guages arent the best & are known to read funny...

use the jack from the front center - at the crossmember, behind the oil pan, and put your jack stands in behind the wheelwells as you described. just make sure you are centered before raising the car.

Nice!!!! I am Soooo Jealous! I want one!

very clean looking, but the automatic is BIG minus in my book - the 3spd autos stink! and only FWD?...mmmm, nope, they are asking way too much money for it - even if it is a low mileage car in good condition

if you are asking about the clips that hold the cover in place, they come straight out - just need to be careful not to break them as you pull (they tend to want to snap from age) I may be able to provide a few replacements if needed since i am stripping my old wagon... if you have one available, one of those wide panel puller things work pretty well, just be gentle. Once you get the cover off, it is pretty easy to see what needs to be done. the hardest part is getting the rod unhooked from the handle - needle nose pliers and a bit of effort is required - might i suggest lubing it up with a little oil to help ease things along...I also recommend pulling the rod BEFORE you unbolt the handle...

63,000 miles on a Subaru is NOTHING! with proper care & maintenance they can easily do over 200,000 miles - some even manage to get over 300,000! my old GL wagon got to 265,000 before i took it off the road due to rust - motor still ran great & probably could have gone well over 300K! Granted it was a 4 cyl, not a 3, but i see no reason why your little Subie cant get many, many more miles if you take care of it.

Awww - it's Cute!! definitely different than what we see over here in the USA, but it is still a Subaru! So, Welcome to the greatest Subaru site on the net! You will find that your little Subaru can be very reliable with just a little TLC. I was converted nearly 10 years ago and havent looked back yet!

just curious - did you have the alt tested in the car, or did you pull it and take it in?? if you pulled it - put it back in, take the whole car over & have them check the whole charging system in car - alt, battery, etc...may not be the alt, but something else...testing in car can help narrow it down.

get your battery tested to make sure it is still good. bad alternators can kill a battery - bad battery can kill an alternator - and a vicious cycle will ensue - bad alt, bad battery, bad alt, bad battery and so on. :-\ most of your chain auto parts stores (advance, etc) will test your battery & alternator for free - Go get it done!

personally, dont much trust most shops. I would start by jacking up the front end. (and do this stuff on BOTH sides - you may think it is on one side, but it could be the other!) *grap the tire and try to wiggle it - both forwad/back - and top/bottom. any noticable movement indicates a problem with either bearings or ball joints - you may need a helper to wiggle the wheel while you attempt to determine where the movement is coming from. *slowly spin the wheel - listen closely - are there any grinding noises?? a slight, intermittent scraping sound would be brake pads scraping against rotors - especially noticable if rotors are indeed warped. a regular grinding, gravelly noise would be indicative of bearings going * grab the tierod and try to twist - if it moves easily (ie: no effort, sloppy even), it may need replacing. it should take a little effort to move it *Physically inspect axle boots, tierod ends, ball joints for tears, excess grease, etc *Physically inspect springs, struts, strut tops - try to physically move things - check the strut for oil seepage (raise the dust boot to see) A strut that is going bad could feasibly cause the kind of symptom you are experienceing - if it has a bad seal it cant rebound properly while going over bad spots in the road... When was the last time struts were replaced on this car?? generally speaking they are supposed to be replaced every 50,000 miles.

that is just too cool! it is nice to see a happy post once in a while. btw: if she had been closer, i would have jumped at the chance to buy Ceeci!! saddened that i missed out, but happy she has a good home!

hate to hear it, but welcome to our world! :-\ The dreaded salt cancer will steal even more Subaru's before thier time.

yup, they come off easily - pop your hood and take a look (if you have underhood insulation, you may need to move it out of the way) pull the tubing off the squirters and give the pump a quick hit to make sure the lines are clear (if you have a plugged up line, it will show up when you do this - one will squirt hard, the other wont) if both lines are clear, then the nozzle is the issue - a pair of needle nose pliers squeezing the base together from under hood should pop the nozzle out of its hole. I replaced the ones on my old GL wagon with some cheepies that actually had LED's in them - never hooked up the wiring, but the washer nozzles worked fine. oh, you may need to adjust the replacements so they hit the windshield right - a large safety pin works very well for this