heartless

Gloyale - Thank you for the reply and the added info. especially this tidbit... Finally got my new thermostat, and did go ahead and order the injectors... Will be putting everything back together this weekend and see how things go - and will definitely be keeping an eye out for headgasket symptoms (hoping no problems, but with my luck... )

1990 Legacy LS wagon - the Snow Queen... last week Thursday, while driving to work the car suddenly started running rough & the CE light came on - acted this way for a minute or two, then just as suddenly "corrected" itself and ran fine the rest of the way in. Ran fine going home that evening. Next day, Friday - happens again, longer this time - was still running like crap when I arrived at work and shut it down. Tried restarting right away - still running like crap. Had to get to work, so left it. Get ready to head home, start car - still running like crap - called the other half to him know I was heading home & car was giving me fits just in case I needed a "rescue". On the drive home it suddenly straightens up again and ran fine the rest of the way home. Saturday - dug out the FSM, pulled codes... had codes for: #2 injector #4 injector Knock Sensor (new about 2 mo ago) 02 sensor obviously if the injectors are not working correctly it will set of the knock and O2 sensors, so wasnt overly worried about those right off... after reading further in the FSM I attempted to diagnose the problem w/the injectors. Checked power at the plugs (FSM says min. 10v) - 12.5v - check Check resistance on the injectors themselves (FSM says between 10-11 Ohms) #2 - 56.2!! #4 - 13.something... OK - not ideal readings. Went to the parts car (91 LS sedan) and checked the injectors on it - no reading on #2 at all, but #4 was reading around 12.5 - much better than 56+ (and more in keeping with what #'s 1 & 3 were reading on the wagon) Got #2 injector swapped out on the wagon, hook everything back up, and fire it up...seems to be running better. Decided to go for a test drive "around the block" (country block = about 12 miles) Seemed to be running fine till a little better than 1/2 way it started to act up again - crap! then, suddenly, the temp guage spikes!! ah, he-double toothpicks!!! pulled over, popped the hood - the overflow bottle's cap was open & antifreeze all over - WTF??? closed that up - get back in - guage is down closer to normal - take off again - still running like crap - temp starts going up again - switch the heater on to help cool things off - runs fine for about a minute, then no heat - uh-oh!! managed to creep her home ever soo slowly - temp guage pretty much pegged all the way. pulled in the drive, shut engine down, but turned the key back on to run the fan to cool her off. I should mention that timing belts & related, water pump & thermostat were all replaced late last summer (07) by a friend at the local Community college Auto shop class (I should have known better... :-\ ) clear out the garage to get her pulled all the way in (had to move the motorcycles) pull the car in and commence pulling the lower radiator hose - only got about 1 gallon of coolant out... pulled the thermostat and find it is a Stant w/o the jiggle pin/bypass hole.... OK, problem known there...had to order the correct thermostat (no dealers close to me) Next recheck the injectors - #2 is reading 12.4 Ohms - same as it was when installed - #4 is reading nothing now, no change on the meter at all, not even a flicker. OK, problem known there now, too... So - do I go for another used injector reading in the 12+ range (as all seem to be now - keeping in mind that the FSM says spec is between 10-11 ohms) or do I replace them all to avoid further problems? FiveOmotorsport has a complete set of 4 correct for my vehicle for about $200 + cores, with a 3 yr/unlimited mileage warranty... Sorry this was so long....

Sorry to say that this part of your VIN is nothing more than which # car it was off the assembly line for that model year. for a general breakdown of VIN decoding try http://www.cars101.com/subaru/vin.html for the actual manufacture date check the plate on the drivers side door frame - the one that lists proper tire size/inflation info. there should be a date stamped on it - something like 5/91 or something along those line.

the other half's 90 L sedan does have it, it should be there somewhere - not as obvious as the older GL's tho

jack up the car again and turn each wheel by hand, listening closely for the noise. if you can hear it, try to pinpoint where it is coming from. it could be brakes dragging,it could be a bent dust shield, it could be bearings, it could be a bad axle...it could be any number of things. You need to try to determine exactly where the noise is coming from. Just because there is no play in the wheel when trying to "shake" it, does not mean the bearings are not starting to go... also, if they are just starting, one may not actually hear them when moving at speed - the sound could be too high pitched to hear over road/wind/engine/tranny noise (been there before) just my .02 cents

yeah - tierod ends and ball joints BEFORE doing the alignment.... also check all suspension bushings for wear/tear. I would definitely do the SPFI swap - much more reliable, better fuel economy, less headaches than the carb...the other half's 89 GL dual range with SPFI got in the high 20's to around 30 mpg average.

I believe that THIS diagram is for the 2.5 engine - NOT the 2.2. Just replaced knock sensors on both of our 2.2's and the location does not look like this diagram. (the sensor does not look like that either) The photos are of the correct sensor - it is tight quarters where the darn thing is located, but you can change it without pulling anything else...

you will still need to remove the airbag itself to get the steering wheel off of the donor car.

if it was mounted using a screw thru a zip tie, my guess would be that somewhere along the line it was relocated by some PO. Subaru would not mount something in that fashion. if you cant find the ign. control unit anywhere else, and you say the wiring count/colors match the diagram, then I would suspect that this box IS your ign. control unit....

no personal experience with them, but my 2 cents.... wouldnt waste my money on them - not even at that low price... reason: Blue is the WORST light wavelength for seeing things. read more here: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/lights/light_color/light_color.html

Yes - thoroughly clean the area, remove as much of the rust as you can, treat with a rust converter product to prevent spots you cant get to from getting worse, then seal it with the product of choice. I would use primer, paint, then the undercoating stuff with proper drying times in between coats - but that is me... the rubberized undercoating should be readily available in spray cans. Do you guys have Fleet Farm in the area? or a similar "farm" store? check in the automotive dept.

short answer - yes. you need to physically try removing & inspecting them. I got some fusible link wire from the local parts store and used the standard crimp on connectors to replace one of mine once...wasnt exactly cheap stuff, but much cheaper than buying one from a dealer would have been. (didnt have a parts car at the time & no JY around here has anything older than 10 yrs...)

have to agree with the others - if you want to prevent rust, you do it from the outside, not inside. pull the plastic inner fenders, clean everything thoroughly, and make sure it is sealed from the outside - the rubber type undercoating would be my choice for these areas over the "rhino" type product - less likely to chip from stones and other road debris one point i will make however is to make sure your door drain holes are open. this would mean pulling the door panels and making sure the bottom of the door cavity is clean and free of gunk. there should be some small slits (1/4 to 3/8" long) for water drainoff at the very bottom where the inner and outer panels meet. sound deadening is better done with a product like dynamat, but if you are real ambitious, you could use the rubberized undercoating stuff in the body cavities (would do a better job of sound deadening than the rhino liner stuff IMHO) but that would require taping things off, and making sure you do not block/plug up any drain holes with the stuff... and keep in mind the stuff is smelly!

part price will vary depending on which year/engine you have. Just bought two from an ebay seller for about $35 each. again - depending on your engine - it may be a single wire (ours were) or a two wire set up, make sure you get the correct one. a little tight getting to it, but it can be done at home in under 1/2 hour (10-15 mins is more like it) check this thread for more info: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=85268 Porcupine had posted some great pics (as usual)

the seller is trying to make it right, I say at least give it a try, sounds like you wont be out anything but time. ultimately tho, it is your choice.

pricing varies by area, but $1500 does sound a bit high to me as well - would have to see/hear/drive the car to decide if worth it or not. ad says "well maintained" - would want to see proof of that in the form of reciepts - check them over carefully. check for suspension work (tierod ends, ball joints, struts, etc), regular oil changes, timing belts (w/water pump) and any other age replacement items something specific to think about would be a timing belt job (60,000 mile intervals for these) - at 155K it will be due again in 25-30k. sooner if it wasnt done at/around 120K the 3at's are not great, but not as bad as some will have you believe if they are taken care of properly. If you do go look at it, drive it - how does it shift? is it smooth, or jerky? Does everything work? power accessories all working correctly? check EVERYTHING! including heat and AC if so equiped. look everywhere - open the rear gate, check all the cubbies - especially the areas behind the wheel wells (prone to rust out) pull the back seat up and check under it for rust areas near the lower seatbelt mounts. you may need to "fish" for the relase strap - it should be just to the drivers side of center... always go in as a skeptic, ready to walk away if it doesnt measure up.

Hey all. I've had my first Sube now for 3 months and love it! 1. I recently noticed a low whining noise once my loyale heats up. The pitch matches the engine rpm's. I can also feel a high frequency vibration in the stick shift, leading me to believe it may be a transmission bearing. (???) Initially i thought it was the p/s pump or alternator bearing, but a screwdriver stethoscope found only normal noises from them both. Is there a Trans replacement in my future and how far off? check the gear oil in the tranny - is it up to proper level? what does it look like? black and smelly? needs to be changed... 2. Is it normal to see the battery voltage rise to 17V when the engine is revved? Absolutely NOT!!! get your alternator tested ASAP - if it is over charging (which it sounds like it is) it will fry your battery too! Thanks.

pull the outer timing covers and check the belts - disty will still turn if the pass. side belt is broken (been there, done that) if timing checks ok, and it has been sitting for an extended period, they CAN be a bear to get started. last year pulled my 89 GL off the road, parked it and let it sit for about a month. needed to move it to a more out of the way location for the winter. had to hold the throttle to the floor while cranking over to get it to start and then it took a little while for it to smooth out and run right - ie: keep the gas to it, play with the throttle a bit. it coughed and sputtered, even backfired once before finally smoothing out and running nice. gas gets "old" when it sits without being treated, and will gum up, also will "drain" back so it isnt "right there" when you hit the key. Make sure the battery has a full charge, and have a go at it.

I can understand the frustration but ebay isnt the one selling you the stuff - it is just the venue - and you have recieved refunds both times...(and no, I am not promoting ebay in any way - I personally am done with them due to the recent round of policy changes) That said, personally, i would go aftermarket. if there seems to be an issue with the stock CD player, get away from it, or as suggested, find someone that could fix it.

$150 and it runs - GRAB it! We currently have 8 Subarus here - 3 legacy's & 5 EA series - luckily we live in the boonies so no "city" to deal with! LOL call it what you want - subaholic, subaruitis, whatever - once you are bitten there is no cure.

welcome to the New Gen! went thru the "new" car jitters myself just last year - not as bad as I thought it would be. The single timing belt can be a bit of a bear to get in (not as easy as the EA82's, but not too hard either), if you take your time, read everything thoroughly before you start and a couple of times during to verify, you will be fine. decent looking little sedan you got there - a little clean up and she wont look too bad. Good luck with the new toy!

Subaru360 - have your GF file a SNAD report on the bay (SNAD = significantly not as described) that way she is covering her behind. Sorry to hear it was in such bad shape, the pics sure looked sweet...

ROFL yupper, ya can find some really nasty stuff in cars sometimes. My current ride, the Snow Queen, I found a banana peel under the rear seat, in addition to the usual detritus like loose change, candy wrappers, small toy parts, old inkpens, etc. Whomever had the car before had some kind of small animal that must have shed like crazy cause there was gobs of long fine white hair EVERYWHERE!!! I am thinking a persian cat perhaps. I am still finding hair even after attempting to vacuum it up - it doesnt want to let go of the carpet! it's under the seats, under the dash, behind various panels - just EVERYWHERE...

maybe I am just getting old, but - just WHY do you need a stereo putting out that much power????? I have never understood the need for blasting a stereo so loud that you can hear it 3 blocks over.... ok, carry on...

none of those in my area - have to have our own pap!!