heartless

safe journey, Texan, and hope everything is ok on the home front

3rd vote for separator plate... very very rare for it to be rear seal itself - almost always that plate

yeah, we also have battery powered hand tools, and the other half picked up a battery powered push (self propelled) mower this summer, when the big rider was having problems.. we had to do something, poor dog was being engulfed by high grass when we let her out to go... =P taller than her, and she is a tallish medium sized dog but a battery powered car, for us, is not practical at all.. we live too far out for it to be, and with a harsh winter climate too (notoriously hard on batteries of all kinds)

the EJ series 4EAT is a very robust transmission... the old EA series were eh.. lol, but yeah, totally different beasts I have owned a 1990 Legacy, a 1995 Legacy and a 2002 Forester with the 4EAT - all great cars with no problems out of the trannies ask GD about the 5spd auto, LOL

This!! ^^^^^ when i met my partner (over 20 yrs ago now) he had a 1970s, harvest gold refrigerator.. was a good 10 yrs after we met that it finally gave up the ghost, say about 2010-ish. After doing some researching, we bought an Amana to replace it.. supposed to be a good product, had great reviews.. had the freezer on the bottom like I wanted.... We just had to replace that one this year because it failed... barely over 10 yrs... while the previous one lasted 40-ish years.. HUGE difference. Makes me wonder how long the new one will last - 6yrs? 8? as for the Subarus.. his is a 2006 LL Bean Outback (H6) that he bought in 2014 - been a decent enough car. we just picked up a 2004 Forester - 185K to replace the 2002 with 267K and failing undercarriage.. remains to be seen how long it will last.. but at least we have a parts car on hand with a good motor, LOL So far, it seems like a good purchase... runs and drives very nicely.. handles well, clutch is good.. shifts nice and crisp, even has decent tires on it. Been so long since i drove a stick, i had forgotten how much fun they could be, LOL As for the Tesla - not only is there the ridiculous manufacturing costs, but what about the electricity used to charge it? how many tons of coal or natural gas get burned to make the electricity?? Sure, he saved in gasoline costs.. but what are the TRUE costs of owning that car? Contrary to popular belief, they are not as "environmentally friendly" as they are made out to be... none of the electric cars are.

seems to me you are just throwing parts at it hoping for a better outcome. You need to figure out what is going on and why. Dont just randomly replace parts unless they are actually needed. not turning over has nothing to do with egr, the coil pak or any of the multitude of other parts you sound like you have thrown at the car. not turning over is most likely a dead battery OR possible ignition circuit problem.. not the starter necessarily...possible, but not likely 1. Check battery condition - should get a minimum of 12.4v at rest.. anything less than 12v, put a charger on it and let it charge fully. 2. download the appropriate service manual for your car from here: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ 3. check all ignition related fuses, both in the cabin and under the hood. you could possibly have a blown fuse / fusible link. 4. Either purchase, or borrow, a code reader (they are not that expensive and are a valuable tool to have) and check the car for stored and/or pending OBDII codes - write them down, in order of appearance on the code reader, and post them here - also in order of appearance and whether it is a set code, or pending code. Codes will be in this format: P0000 - with the 0s being other numbers.

LOL, the last time I had a car payment was in 1991. has been used cars, paid in cash, ever since. After divorce, i swore i would never do it again.. and I havent.. (made payments on a car, or gotten remarried, LOL)

yeah, the EZ30 is supposed to get premium fuel, altho my partner uses standard grade unleaded in his with no major problems... just curious how many miles are supposed to be on this motor? do you have anything in writing for a guarantee of any kind? cause honestly, that does not sound very good to me did you perform any kind of maintenance on it before installing? like checking valve clearances? assuming you at least changed the oil & filter on it.. i hope..

oh yeah.. remember, where ever it hits sitting still, will be a bit lower at highway speeds, LOL

that has pretty much always been true tho.. the wont give you squat for your trade in, but they can make a bundle off of it later. I have NEVER been offered blue book value for a trade in, and dont know anyone that has been... unless it was a relatively rare & desirable model.. Most people will take what is offered because they do not want to hassle with advertising and dealing with people and their expectations of a used car a lot depends on the local market, too, as to how much you will get for a given model.. around here, fords & chevys are a dime a dozen, Subarus, not so much, so yeah.. they can command a slightly higher price

the boot itself has a flat plastic ring attached on the inside of the fabric... but yeah, after futzing around with it a little yesterday evening, i think it does snap in from underneath.. and for some reason it ended up above where it should be... possibly a bushing replacement? i dunno.. will futz with it a little more this afternoon i think.. gonna have to pop the trim plate up and see if I can snap it in the rest of the way.. have it about 2/3rds right now, but didnt want to pull too much on the fabric and tear it, lol

yeah, i saw that one, which is what prompted the question... the way the thing is right now, it is all entirely above the plastic trim.. and messing around with it this evening, i think it does snap in from underneath... will futz with it more later

can someone please help me out with how the shifter boot attaches to the trim plate?? the "new" 2004 Forester (manual trans) has the lower part of the shift boot just flopping around loose and it is driving me crazy, LOL the boot itself is in very good condition, but is not attached the trim plate around the shifter at all. This is what I need help with.. HOW is it supposed to be attached? from the top? from underneath? with clips? screws? how??

we never turn down an opportunity to buy new tools here, LOL and we have used that Irwin set many, many times since purchasing it. like recently, needed a special thin wrench to get the clutch fan off the Dodge pickup to change the water pump. a standard wrench would not fit in the space allowed and still be able to turn it. other half bought a set of these special wrenches will we ever use that set again?? maybe, maybe not.. but if we do ever need it, it will be there and we wont have to waste time tracking one (or a set) down, waste fuel going to get it (them) and the job will be done that much quicker. but to each their own i guess.. oh, and I can pretty much guarantee you that you would get charged a lot more than 30 bucks to pay someone else to do it.

yup, most likely is fronts dont go nearly as often as rears, but they do go... quick and dirty test.. after driving for a little bit.. check the hub area on both sides for temp.. carefully! if the hub area feels significantly warmer on the left vs the right, then yeah.. either bearing or dragging brakes.. in this case, i would definitely suspect bearing. (and no, you dont need to pull the tire to do this test.. the heat will transfer outward.) Next "quick and dirty" test - jack the car up and rotated the wheel while lightly holding the spring.. a lot of times bad bearings will transfer that "crunch" to the spring and you can feel the spring vibrate..

and it is your trade ins that the rest of us are buying.. LOL Seriously tho... over a 100K used to be a death sentence years ago.. but this has not been the case for a very long time, yet the mindset remains... I bought my first Subaru with 150K on it.. the lowest mileage one ever I think was 114K... the 2002 Forester had 214K when we purchased - the highest mileage purchased.. I have NO problem buying a Subaru with over 100K on it.. barely broken in is my motto After making sure all maintenance is up to date, I get a good car that will most likely get at least another 100K, if not more.

like I said.. check around locally.. they are not that expensive, and while not used a ton, like a standard socket set would be, they can be quite useful to have on hand there are smaller sets available - only 5 pcs in the most common sizes.. but you just never know when you might need one.. especially if you work on things yourself.

uh... they can improve aerodynamics while still maintaining visibility... it is more about "styling", and the option to have a back up camera now that is driving that nonsense. and backing up with nothing but side mirrors is not that difficult, really.. yes, it DOES require one to be sure about what is behind them, but it can be done. heck, i do it all the time and I dont have a visibility problem.. old habits die hard, LOL (semis dont have backup cameras or center rear view mirrors.. you learn quickly to back up without them. same difference towing a boat or a camper trailer.. )

can highly recommend these... https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-Tools-54019-Extractor/dp/B001MXPRV6 make sure to get the Irwin brand.. there are cheaper sets out there, but they are crap. Irwin is pretty darn good.. available in both metric and ASE... we have both and they have saved our butts more than once you should be able to find them locally, but if not, online is an option

actually, no, the 5spd auto is not better.. they are the weak link here.. the 4EAT would be the better tranny for durability. the only place the 5spd beats the 4 spd is on the hiway - lower rpms at speed, better fuel mileage... but that is the only advantage

not sure if it will work or not, but you do need to be concerned about final drive ratios.. they MUST match between tranny and rear end.

hey Larry... you are gonna need to add Forester to your inventory... at least to 2004, LOL Glad you got things sorted out Texan, and that Larry was able to help. Always nice to hear of members helping each other out.

i know i am probably in the minority, but i DON'T want all that fancy tech (more crap to go wrong) and I don't want 4 dr pickups.... styling, eh.. as long as it isn't too ugly, i don't really care - and tbh, a lot of the newer cars are ugly to me.. what i DO want is reliability and decent fuel mileage. Interior comfort is also a factor for me.. I am short (5'4") so having controls within easy reach is kind of important. Hands free phone is about all i want in the "tech" department, lol. I don't want lane assist, or rear cameras... but then again.. I am from an era where learning to drive right was a thing - paying attention to the road and the other drivers around you was/is important.

it WAS addressed... by extending warranties for the vehicles affected AND changing the gasket design. the sheer volume of affected cars out there coupled with the fact that the failures did not typically happen until somewhere between 75 & 100k is why it appears to have dragged on for years. That, and many people did not have a problem, or ignored the early warning signs and did not take advantage of replacement warranties... Let it go.. this is not something to carry on about anymore. Geez... these vehicles are getting seriously long in the tooth now..

i know it is a very different pump/setup, but we had to replace the ps pump on the other half's 06 Outback.. that was a pain in the backside to get all the air out of that one.. turns out, he had buggered an o-ring on the return line when reassembling everything and it was sucking air into the system.. once he found that and replaced it, it bled out fine... but the instructions for bleeding it were very specific in stating that after the initial bleeding, to let it sit for 4-6 hrs, and do it again to make sure all the air is out.