heartless

have dabbled in oils, acrylics, pastels, charcoal, pen and ink, and misc other mediums...not a "professional" but have been told I am pretty good... Some of you may remember my drawing of the 'Panel Soob'...see it here panel soob I rely on my meager abilities to do the glass etching I do now. some of which can be seen at my website Etch-of-class.com

skip...would most definitly be interested in the info for the EA82 shifter!! it is getting a little ridiculous! Thanks in advance!

Hey Subarubrat...got some q's about that power resister you listed earlier...have you actually installed this thing in your vehicle?? are there any mods that need to be made to put it in? and did you need to get the mounting brackets they have listed? this sounds like one heck of an option for the failing blower motor in my 89 wagon...only works on 3 and 4, gets a little too warm sometimes! As for dealer prices, i understand your pain, but I dont have a dealer anywhere near me (closest is over 3 hrs away) so i pretty much have to deal with aftermarket or online purchases. we dont have much in the way of parts at junkyards either, and most of the junkyards around here wont let you go in and pull your own parts, even if they had any old subies! they claim it is because of insurance regulations....:temper:

I'm not much for murals either, but to each thier own.... me, I etched the back window of my subie wagon, my expression of individualism

will this fix work on an 89 wagon as well, my shifter is very sloppy when in gear, and I have to swing it way to the right when upshifting (or going for reverse)...usually hitting the person in the passenger seat in the knee when I go for fifth gear! :eh:

all I can say is Sa-weeett!!! Wish I had the money for this one!

My car didnt have a stereo in it when I got it, so I had to put in an aftermarket...ended up having to replace the entire antenna/cable as somebody had cut the darn cable!!! found the half @$$ed splice job up under the carpet. But before going to all the hassle of replacing the antenna I would follow Mark's suggestion of double checking with the old stereo, and looking for possible ground outs. Took a little hunting to find a replacement for mine, as we dont have too many yards around here that have old Subies to steal parts from. Finally found one from a car audio place, had to special order the darn thing, bolts on a little different than the original did, but it works!

Awesome find! Thank you for sharing it!!!

you should be able to pick up a flush/fill kit from any auto parts place. They usually have several T-fittings for various size hoses, and usually include the hose clamps for installing the T. The last one I purchased (several years ago) also had a spout thing that was supposed to go in the radiator filler neck to direct the flow out when you hooked up a wter hose to flsh the system.

Sorry I havent been back since the original post several days ago, but have been pretty busy. I spose i should have noted that we tried swapping out the drivers side switches with some that were known to work and no go there either. #4 is the major grounding point, which was slightly corroded. That was the first thing i went to work on, cleaned up the corrosion with wire brush and sandpaper till we had brass showing again. Unplugged the connectors on 1 and 2 and no corrosion in there, they look good. Also, did check the fuse panel, and all the fuses were good, even tried swapping out the one for the windows, just in case, and nothing. Am still intersted in what # 3 is, too.... it has no obvious markings on it, round and covered in a rubbery material with 2 wires coming out the side about 6 inches long to a connector.

ok guys, need to know which item is which and what would you try swapping out first for non-working power windows, or more like drivers door switches not working, but the others were for a while, now nothing works. Also, do any of these things have anything to do with the power door locks working? power window stuff under passenger seat.. the item marked #1 says power window relay system on it, so am assuming this is the 'infamous' relay, but what are items 2 and 3?? #4 had quite a bit of corrosion going on, cleaned that up right off, but havent had a chance to try out the window switches yet, dead battery! did a little searching for previous posts on the subject which was the only way I knew to pull the passenger seat to get to this stuff, but still not sure what is what... thanks in advance

got about 1.5 inches here in central Wisconsin today...personally i coulda waited to see the stuff, I want those warmer temps back!!! :boohoo: dont have a problem driving in the stuff, just not ready to deal with the darn cold yet!!!! guess i am getting too old to really enjoy it anymore. all you 'younger' kids have fun! I'll stay inside where it's warm!!!

Guys, I hate to say this, but what brand you go with really doesnt matter that much, its kinda like ford vs chevy vs dodge...or whatever you care to vs with! I drove truck long haul for 12 years, my personal preference on a radio is Cobra, and my personal preference on an antenna is Wilson...BUT ...have had several off brand antennas that worked just fine, and so do the cheap radios...The number one factor is getting things peaked and tuned, and matched. that is where any performance improvements will be made. most cb's out of the box are set up to run 18 feet of coax for best stock performance...not too many people need 18 feet, but that is where they are factory set, just a note for those that didnt know. If you are going with a shorter coax, then you REALLY need to get it matched up. Another tidbit, coax should be replaced regularly for best performance, and do yourselves a favor, DONT buy the cheapest coax you can find. I have tried several styles over the years and find the grey coated ones last longest. the skinney little, cheap black ones are good for maybe a year, depending on the weather in your area (hot & dry being harder on them than cold & damp), the grey ones can go several years, again depending on the weather conditions. the 'clear' coated ones dont last long at all, had a freind get this style and he replaced it within 6 months, he was that disappointed with the performance. Just remember to replace with the same length as you had when getting things matched, it does make a difference. Just my two cents worth....

I have used them to clean alloy wheels too, they are great for the initial cleaning, then follow up with a good polish to really make 'em shine. and if you want to keep that shine for a while, use some sort of sealer after polishing. good luck.

I wanna know more about 'Da Bomb' system!!! how does it work? where do I get one??? is it easy to hook up??? Tell Me More!!!! Seriously, I need one of these! I am either getting cut off, or tailgated....seems nobody takes these little cars seriously, half the time they act like they dont even see it! or is it just my car they dont see????

thanks for all the input guys, it is appreciated. the body of the car is in pretty good shape overall, very minor rust considering where it lives!! LOL not much in the way of mechanicals to transplant out of it if i was even thinking of doing that....only half of the motor is in it (was a turbo! :boohoo: ) but the 5 spd w/ p/b 4wheel, transfer etc is all there....only real bad lookin spot is on the front subframe, and i will have to do some grinding, poking and prodding to find out just how bad it really is, could be it looks worse than it really is (one hopes so anyway!) I know i have seen talk of Por 15 here before....but you guys that have used it, recommend it? i have personally heard nothing but good about this product if used correctly....just looking for some more input... thanks again all

if the #1 & #2 guys arent interested I would be!! providing it would work on my 89 gl wagon :-) put me down as #3....

Armour All cleaner is another choice...have used it with great results, even on fabric....just be sure to test in inconspicuous place for colorfastness first, dont recomend using it in places that have painted on lettering tho, it has removed the lettering on one item i used it on!

am looking for information on building a full frame to put under my 86 wagon...front subframe has some rust going on and doesnt appear to be the strongest, but dont want to ditch the car. info I am looking for is... 1. is this a doable thing? 2. what size square tube would you recommend? (dont really plan on doing off road with this car, but may pull a small trailer with it) 3. where and how should I be linking it in to the car itself (ie mounting body)? 4. any other info you could possibly come up with in regards to this kind of project. thanks in advance.

sounds like a real nice one you got there! $400 aint bad at all, bought mine for $150, but had to put a clutch and both front axles in right away($600), so it really cost me about $750, not to mention new tires, battery and alternator!! but has been a great little car, and I have gotten my moneys worth and then some back outta this one, and still going strong at about 175,000 miles!

hi, not too far from you, but never done an axle swap myself...had mine done when i first got my daily driver cause i didnt have the time to try it myself, also had the clutch replaced at the same time. (mine is an 89 GL wagon, also a $150 ride!) not too many of us in this general area i'm afraid. unlike the oregon/wash bunch, and the bunch out east. wish i could be of more help. heartless http://www.etch-of-class.com