heartless

only time i have ever had water in the headlights was from chips/cracks... and the water would damage the reflective lining so it was worth replacing them.

a week or two is not going to be long enough to worry about your gas going bad. even a month or maybe two is not really a huge issue... if you were going to store the vehicle for 6 months or longer, then maybe yeah - might consider taking precautions. for what it is worth, i dont drive mine every day either.. it could easily be a week or more without moving the car... I would be more concerned with the battery running down than with the gas going bad.

only nice for specific years mine does not qualify

i dont think the issue is with Rock at all.. I think it is the differences in the different markets. USDM is going to have different parts than what you have, or what Europe has, or even what Japan has.. that is just the way it is. Keep in mind that Rock Auto is a US company that caters primarily to the US market. Not saying you cant get what you need, but you will most likely have to do a bit more digging than just going to year & model listings - engine size/configuration is a bigger factor. dont be so quick to say getting the EJ25 is "lucky" - yes, it has more power, but it also has more problems, so.. trade offs.

rent a hub tamer kit? that is one job i actually dont mind paying someone to do... on the old GL/DL models the bearings were easy to do yourself, but the newer ones, not so much...

yup, definitely depends on the parts... Plugs - NGK copper cores - you dont need to waste money on anything fancy Plug Wires - OEM or NGK only Timing components - OE is usually best - an Aisin kit is ok, including water pump (gasket needs to be metal, not paper) - forget Gates they went to Chinese components Oil filters - Wix brand is probably your best option here - stay away from Fram. Try to stick to well known names for things like brakes, etc... OE for axles (new or used) Some stuff you will only find at a Subaru parts supplier - online stores are good, but shop around for the best pricing (including shipping!) as some are better than others, depending on the part.

what kind of wires??? plug wires should be OEM or NGK only - anything else is a waste of your money. cheap parts store wires on junk for these cars. I agree with the others about verifying timing (by tooth count if at all possible - get a silver sharpie and make your own marks), set the timing mark on the crank in the correct position and check the cam marks to make sure those are correct... with a new belt (no stretch) on both my 02 and my 04 models (both EJ251) the drivers side cam mark was ever so slightly turned in towards the center when the belt was installed correctly - and i mean VERY slightly - barely noticeable.. if one is slightly outward, you are a tooth off. triple check all electrical connectors - make sure they are fully seated and locked in - and in the correct positions. also worth going back over everything to make sure you didnt miss connecting anything...

valid reason, then.. The major difference is in the catalyst material itself, as ido said above... and would be related more to emissions, not fuel consumption. fwiw - slightly raising tire inflation will net you more in the way of fuel mileage than any cat would. I usually go with about halfway between recommended pressure (on the car's info tag) and max pressure listed on the tire.. and check it regularly..

why do you need to replace the cat? there are only 2 reasons I can think of for doing such a thing - one is the cat is clogged - in which case the reason for the clog needs to be addressed, the other is rust damage. If you are thinking performance gains, forget it.

yup, basic copper core NGK plugs are best for the NA 2.2s and 2.5s - If you put anything else in, you are wasting your money. These cars do not need iridium or platinum, or whatever else the market is pushing. Wires should be OE or NGK only - aftermarket, parts store brands do not hold up and are known to cause running issues.

i would like to see instructions for that as well... FSM says headliner (they call it "roof trim") needs to be removed... so yeah.. please do tell

there are lots of apps, but you still have to have a dongle to plug into the OBDII port to transfer the info to the app .. that dongle wont be free.

not only will the online calculators give you speedometer differences, there are a bunch of free smartphone speedometer apps that can give you real time speed info... for my 2004 Foz with stock size all seasons - the speedo reads about 3mph faster than actual... meaning when the needle is on 30mph i am actually only going about 27, give or take.. verified by a local municipality and their portable radar speed sign... you know the ones.. gives posted speed limit on the upper half with a radar reading of your speed on the lower half.. so a slightly taller tire might actually make the speedo more accurate, but yeah, it does depend on the actual tire size... unless you are getting really crazy with size changes, weight is really not going to be that big of a factor - 1 or 2 lbs/per is negligible in most situations - basically the equivalent of a few bags of groceries or a few extra tools - big deal. Tire compound will make more of an impact.. how hard or soft... harder compound (longer wearing - like touring) will give better fuel mileage, but wont be as grippy on slippery roads... softer compounds (like snow tires) will grip better, but wont last as long (also reduces mpgs) - finding the right balance of grip and durability for your area is the real challenge. Up north here, where we have winter conditions for more than half the year, it makes sense to have dedicated snow tires, and many of us do... down south, not so much. All depends on where you live and travel. that is my 0.05 cents worth (increased from 0.02 for inflation)

parts from 90-94 should work fine - "should" being the operative word. there are some minor cosmetic differences in those years, but for the most part they are very close.. might even be able to make 95+ work.. kind of depends on how long the arm and the blade are... find the right combo and you will be fine. i guess my concern would be does the motor work/turn the shaft? if not used regularly, things tend to seize up... the 1990 I had years ago had that problem... I was able to take things apart, clean it up, grease it up and get it working again, but it was a bit of a chore. i seem to recall being terrified of breaking the glass tho, where the shaft passes thru.. as for other parts.. it really kind of depends on what it is you need... there are a lot of things that can be swapped over between 1st & 2nd gen, but there are a lot of things that cant, too.. just depends on what specifically is needed.

the front lower spring perch will dictate how much you can get away with, clearance wise. and just for clarification sake, using the stock size 225/55R17 as an example (other sizes will correlate in the same way) 225 = tread width, given in millimeters 55 = % of tread width for the sidewall - ie: 55% of 225 = sidewall height (225 x 0.55 = 123.75mm in this case) R simply means radial tire 17 = wheel size in diameter. so, any tire ending in 17 can theoretically fit the wheel... however.... it is also useful to know the wheel width when looking at alternative sizes - narrow tires would look odd on a wide wheel and could potentially break bead seal on rough terrain - just sayin. slightly wider tires are usually ok, but dont get carried away with it for the same reason as the narrower tires..

i would seriously contact the seller about the missing hardware.. maybe you can get a partial refund?

for the control unit... https://www.car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi car-part is not that difficult, really.. chose year, model, the part you are looking for (sometimes need to get creative, or chose something related) chose sort settings and area, click 'search' - it may ask for more info on the next screen, select the appropriate option, search again.. then go thru the listings.. if the exact part you are looking for - in this case, the actuator - is not listed.. use something related, like the control unit, then contact listed yards and ask about the actuator.

agree that asking SOA, or even your dealer, would be the best option with this new of a vehicle. that said, i would be inclined to agree it has something to do with the eyesight settings - my partner just recently got a 2017 Mazda and it would beep in certain conditions as well, all related to the lane assist stuff (blind spot & lane wandering warnings) and the cruise control (getting too close to the vehicle ahead of you). He found that the beeping could be turned off in the settings.

Ha! i was right! Sort of, lol had no idea about the end being broken off tho.. but your first pic just did not look quite right to me. Excellent catch on that end piece being broken off. The green cup on the old axle is definitely a Subaru OE axle - not sure what you put back on it, but I hope it does not give you any problems.

only problem being JDM H6s are in short supply right now.. other half has checked several places... any recommendations on who to deal with?

has there been any kind of servicing of the axles recently? it may simply be that it was not pushed in far enough or, it could be worn/broken snap ring.. i had an axle on my 02 forester pop out a short time after servicing - made a horrible racket, but then it was also sitting cock-eyed - popped out while making a turn into a local store. Luckily I was not on the road when it happened.. a couple of people helped me get it into a parking space and I called the garage that did the work.. they came & got it and fixed it for free.

i would be half inclined to agree with GD - get a JDM replacement... the other half is inclined to agree with jonathan - do headgaskets at the same time as timing chain work... and yeah, 300k is about right on the timing chain/guides service life from everything i have read as well.. we have an 06 LL Bean Outback that just got retired at around the 250k mark due to "issues" - coolant loss, rough running, etc, all pointing to headgasket failure - torn on what to do with it right now.. do we "yank and fix" or "replace".... the rest of the car is in decent enough condition that it would be a shame to scrap it. for now, it has been parked up on the car trailer for the winter. Considering the "issues" this one has, thinking a JDM replacement is probably the best option for it.

wow... i had no idea.

Duralast is ok.. not great, but not terrible either.. honestly, I would go to RockAuto and get your preferred model there... they list powerstop about $31 per rotor spend the extra funds on something else.

you have obviously never been to WI, IL, or MI 🤣 one of the Legacy's we have had in the past... and then there was my first one, Brumhilda..