heartless

if it helps any, paid $1400 for my 02 Forester 3.5 yrs ago.. body in good shape, but underside is showing its age - interior nearly perfect. Only drawback (to some) was the 207K on the odometer. so yeah.. low miles, super clean.. in WI - especially near a big city - that is easily $2500 or better.

might be a wire(s) on its way out?? those are the coil on plug type, correct? but yeah, kinda hard to know which with no CEL giving an indication of which cylinder is the problem have you checked for any arcing in the dark?

i have a 2002 Forester, and typically get around 26-27 mpg average.. 250-300miles per tank, depending on how low I let it get. as others have said, do not go by the gauge alone.. gauges can do weird things.

glad to hear it will be taken care of. Safe journey to you when you get to it.

agree - find a used knuckle and get it replaced before you head out.. Not worth risking that long of a drive with known bad bearings. www.car-part.com to search for used parts and find another shop that can get you in sooner

best bet is start comparing wiring diagrams.. you can get pretty much everything you need here: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ on average, between 250-300 miles a tankful is typical (without running out) - depending on driving style, terrain, etc,

RockAuto also stocks replacements. not sure if theirs are any better or not, so do your homework before buying, but they do have a couple that are cheaper. I had the bolt come loose on my old 89 GL wagon.. while on vacation away from home, LOL

sounds to me like he might need the bigger one... "... they said the pockets were too small for the springs..."

from the factory, they probably all do have the 201mm deck height.. so no, it is not false. any machining work done down the road will change that, however.. i am not an engine builder, but common sense says that if you are machining warped heads to sit flat, and possibly machining the block mating surface as well, you are taking material away and that will affect other things.

glad you got it sorted out and thanks for coming back and letting everyone know the results.

last pdf on this page suggests yes, the dash has to be taken out to get to the door actuator motor. @brus brother - nope, these are electrical, not vacuum

yeah if there is no pickup screen, it could be the cruddy stuff plugging things up and killing the flow to the engine.

a couple of quarts (half a gallon) would be WAY overfull, not just a little.. and yeah, it could have blown something if there was that much extra in there. half a quart would be no big deal, but a couple of quarts?

any history of overheating? If not it might be worthwhile I would offer $1500 and see what happens - using the obvious cost of new heads and labor as a bargaining chip.

have to agree with idosubaru after getting more details.. definitely does sound like a wheel bearing on its way out. the more noticeable wear on the RR suggests that wheel. would suggest investing in some better quality tires as well, once you get the other issue sorted out. And possibly an alignment job, too. a good, budget friendly brand is Mastercraft. Have used them myself for a few years now and have always been very happy with them.

why would you want to purchase inferior products like that link?

new-ish tires could be the source of your road noise.. every tire has its own unique characteristics, and different brands, compounds and tread patterns will create different noises and handling characteristics going down the road. heck, new vs worn will produce different noise levels. 85k - suspension might be ok, might not.. worth spending a little time inspecting things.

first thing is how old are the tires? any unusual wear patterns? are all tires the same brand, size and approx tread depth? next up, for me, would be what condition are the struts/springs in? how old? also related suspension bushings.. handling issues are typically related to suspension components.

yup, the radiator itself will only hold about a gallon. the entire system holds the 2-ish gallons - block, heater core, etc. the "flush" stuff is not necessary, at all, as already noted. I would be more concerned about why the reservoir is dirty - what kind of dirt? oily dirt? just dirt, dirt? and how dirty is it? oily dirt can suggest other, more serious problems.. The timing set is far more important to keep things running reliably. unless you have verifiable proof it has been done, it needs to get done asap. for a proper factory service manual, go here, locate your model and year, and download: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/

wow, very nice! i really like the headlight guards, too. lol

i used the 98 Forester struts/springs.. simply because we had one handy for parts to start off with. the used ones were pretty well shot so I updated to new parts later. I was quite happy with the results overall and did not notice any major problems with tail sag after installing the new set. Even allowed me to use the larger Forester wheels.. You will notice that the rear wheel is slightly forward in the wheelwell.. the only way to fix that is to get the Outback trailing arm - it is a little bit longer than the stock Legacy one, but honestly it was not bad, and I never had a problem with anything rubbing

ALL Subarus will be FWD biased - you are asking for something that does not exist.

you will not find complete strut assemblies for one that old. Not anything worth having anyway. KYB is the go to strut of choice for any Subaru. Springs to match and new tophats and associated parts (rubber isolators, etc) will allow you to pre-assemble before installation. verify all parts on a diagram to make sure you have everything you need. Fronts require a cone shaped washer to allow the strut to turn in tophat for steering. Struts & springs should match the application you are taking from (ie: the outback, or forester) Tophats should match the car you are putting them into (ie: the Legacy) I did it this way when I swapped my 95 Legacy over to Forester struts.. all new components assembled off the car, then it was just a simple R&R to complete the job. Was very happy with the outcome.

that info should be in the owners manual, but if you dont have one.. check here: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy_Outback/2010/

you probably just need to do a good clean & polish.. if the headlight housing looks yellowed or hazy, that is exactly what you need to do Maguire's (and others) sells a kit that has two grades of sanding pads with a holder, polish, an applicator pad for the drill, and a sealer all in one box. the trick is to make sure you wet sand out ALL of the yellowing/hazing before going to the polish. It will not last forever - 6mos to a year depending on conditions, but it does do a good job of cleaning things up and improving light output