heartless

i would start by downloading the wiring diagrams from here: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ you can then figure out how the stock one was wired, and hopefully go from there. I personally know nothing about installing aftermarket amps, sorry.

in light of the recent revelations about "fake" plugs, where did you buy your plugs from? ebay or a proper parts store? if from a proper parts store, they should be ok, but doesnt hurt to check them anyway. if from ebay, they could be questionable.

if it is an actual strut, then it may fit ok, but if it is more of a shock type, then no here in the USA, from what I understand, Forester has a slightly longer spring, and the spring perch is set at a different level than the Outback version, otherwise the overall length is pretty much the same. The standard Legacy versions are shorter, with shorter springs, so you may have fitment issues with the springs.

Bennie - if you go look up the part numbers, the 334166-167 ARE the shock/spring type, which is why they will not work on a Forester. I had a hard time finding any info on those two part numbers on the KYB USA site, but since he is in Spain, different market.. they would probably fit that pretty blue wagon very nicely.

a decent, low mileage used tranny would be more cost effective than trying to swap to a manual. and yeah, car-part.com would be the place to start looking. Make sure you get the details of any guarantee/warranty - some require a certified shop to do the work or they wont honor it. nothing really wrong with the 251 engine if it has been properly maintained. my 2002 Forester (also an auto) has that engine, and it has plenty of get-up-&-go when I ask for it. putting an EJ20 in an outback you would not really gain anything due to the weight of the car - it would feel underpowered.

first off, welcome aboard. Another female, Yay! =) 2ndly.. changing from an auto to a manual is a LOT harder than you think it is. you would not only need the transmission itself, but flywheel, pedal assembly, some have hydraulic clutch actuators, so you would need that, interior bits - gear shifter, trim, etc, not to mention the ECU in your car is set up for an auto, not a manual, so it would complain (this can supposedly be addressed, but I personally do not know how.) You would be further ahead either just swapping in another auto, or buying a car that is originally a manual. Brakes, tie rod ends, and other suspension related bits are not terribly difficult. why do you want to go to a smaller engine? is there something specific wrong with the 251?

the 020 and 021 would swap ok, but I dont think the other 2 will..

Seriously people - DO NOT BUY SPARK PLUGS ON AMAZON OR EBAY!!! or any of those other multi seller sites. Get them from an auto parts store in your local neighborhood. Then you wont have to worry about whether or not they are genuine or fake.

just some food for thought.. find out what the terms of any warranty are.. I bought a used tranny w/warranty a few years ago that REQUIRED a certified shop to install - which i had done - and they STILL refused to honor the warranty when the tranny failed in the test drive, claiming the shop must have done something wrong. I never did get any money back from that one. Needless to say, I will not deal with that place ever again.

and this is why I buy my parts from reputable retailers - local when possible, not fly-by-night ebay sellers. anyone buying spark plugs on ebay kinda deserves what they get, imho. You may think that is mean, but seriously, i have NEVER even thought about buying something as basic as spark plugs on ebay - or amazon for that matter. I get them from local retailers - either the farm & home store, or auto parts store. Things that I can't get locally i buy from known reputable online sources. eBay, Amazon, AliExpress, and others, are flooded with crooks, fakes, and junk. I will not buy parts for my Subaru there, unless I absolutely have no other choice (and that is REALLY rare).

absolutely, tires could be a source of issues and should be addressed asap tires should all be the same brand, size and wear - at the very least, they should all be within approx 1/4" circumference of each other.

why would you want to replace the key switch? that is not usually the source of this kind of issue..

if they come back, you need to find out what codes are presenting, and address the issues before clearing again.

huh.. looked up for my 02 Forester, and got the exact same thing you posted the first time.. there is a link that says "for a fully functioning remote, click here" but when you click on it, it asks for a login & password..

not 94 specific, but there is a lot of info available for free here: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Old Models--/

read the fine print, tho.. NO electronics.. case & battery only.

actually, no, Bennie - they were more of a yellow than white.

there are a lot of people that don't know the difference, and use the terms interchangeably.. and I agree, fog lights should be yellow. the yellow seems to penetrate better Once upon a time, I had a set of aftermarket lights that had both styles.. fog and driving with a switch to flip from one to the other.. two separate bulbs and reflectors in each housing.

there is a marked difference between "fog" lights and "driving" lights - they are not the same thing. Fog lights throw the light down and wide at the road surface so you can see the lane markings easier in foggy conditions. Driving lights throw the light down the road - further ahead - to see further down the road - and yes, they can be problematic for oncoming drivers. Driving lights should be used in the same way high beam headlights are used.. when there is oncoming traffic - turn them off!

you can download factory service manual here: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy_Outback/1999/Service Manual/ there is a diagnostics section for the brake system in there... sorry I can not be of much more help than that. Hope you can get it sorted out soon

the Maguires kit comes with 2 grades of wet sanding pads and a handle to hold them, a small buffing pad you can use on a cordless (or corded) drill, and a microfiber cloth for wiping everything down, along with the polish and the UV protectant... Like i said, comes with everything needed to do a proper job, except some water. I have done them in the past with just several grades of wet sanding paper, and good old fashioned turtle wax even.. but the kit has everything you need and does a nice job if you follow the instructions.

and it is "brake" "break" is to break something, or take a break..

unfortunately, it is something that will have to be done on a fairly regular basis (about once a year, maybe two) I usually do mine in the fall, when headlight use is going to be more often due to shorter days. the kit will last for several uses, so it is not something that has to be purchased every year (if you can keep track of where it is, lol) but, the cost of the kit, and about a half hour to an hour of time to clean them, vs a couple hundred dollars per headlight housing plus installation time.. it is a far more cost effective route to go. my 02 Forester looked pretty bad when I got it, but the headlights are currently crystal clear after their latest polishing.

Nice Score! the steering column lever probably hasnt been moved/used in ages and yeah, it can be a bear to get it to break free, but it should eventually.. my Forester's was locked up pretty tight, too, when i first got it. are you sure the "noise maker" (flasher) is what is causing the noise? there are other relays up in there that could also be clicking. need to pinpoint what is causing it. thumping when taking off from a dead stop.. check the suspension over carefully. could be a number of things..

get the Meguires Headlight restoration kit.. comes with a couple of sanding pads, polish, and a UV protectant in one kit follow the directions and you will find you no longer need to buy headlight assemblies.