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Everything posted by heartless
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rear wiper has the potential to be seized up.. if it is not used regularly the shaft will corrode in the housing and has to be completely disassembled to free it up again... not a super hard job to do, but rather time consuming with about a 50% chance of getting it working again (as long as the motor isnt burned out). for the front washer.. check that there is enough fluid in washer fluid bottle.. also check the wiring going to the little pump attached to the bottle. If you have a test light or volt meter, get a helper to push the button and make sure power is getting to the pump. If that checks out ok, then you may need to replace the pump. you should be able to find all related service manual materials in the link I gave above to help you diagnose further.
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it is relatively easy - just need to get the brakes loosened up. might be as easy as a short tow (preferably backwards & only a few feet - don't want to tear up tires) to break them free, or it may be more involved - as in jacking it up, pulling the wheels and getting in there to free up the pads/shoes manually. hope it goes easy for you.
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um, Texan - i believe he is talking about these... there should not be power steering fluid anywhere near these... to the OP - if you can rock them easily, they are worn out and should be replaced. you should not be getting grease, or anything else out of them, either. the bottom (wide part) usually does have a retaining ring, sometimes the top does, sometimes not, but either way, the rubber should be pretty snug against the the rod coming out of it.
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bring the front of the car up in the air, fill the block from the upper radiator hose, connect hose then fill radiator. there should be a small plastic bleeder screw on the passenger side - may not look like much - just a phillips style cross in a small piece of white plastic (sometimes black). Thermostat needs to be OEM - aftermarkets will not cut it for these cars.
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air breather tube?? you did not say which AT tranny it has - 4 or 5 speed - 2006 had both options found this in a FSM - for the 5sp AT.. looks kinda like your description (picture is too small to make much out) link to where I found this: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy_Outback/2006/USDM Legacy FSM 2006 (BP-BL)/2006 USDM/6 TRANSMISSION SECTION/AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION 5AT/
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first off, start by downloading the service manual for you car from here... http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ the timing marks being referred to are located on the two cam pulleys and the toothed crank pulley (actually on the backer plate of this one) - you can find more info in the service manual about this.
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EJs generally have the charcoal canister in the back, closer to the tank - it is MUCH more susceptible to being flooded than the old EA series cars were. me personally, when the pump kicks off, I might round off to the next whole dollar amount, might not.. depends on how close it is. if it kicks off only a couple of pennies over, I might take it to a quarter.. but i do not just keep pumping until it spits back at me.