heartless

don't have an Auto Zone near me - nearest is an hour away. it is either Advance Auto, O'Reilly's or Napa, and I rarely do business with the latter 2, mainly due to crappy customer service. Used to do Car Quest occasionally, but Advance bought them out (at least here) so....

yes, but the 99 was also interference.. beginning with the 97 model year they are all interference.. BIG difference internally.

Personally, I would add the 95 Legacy to that list. Just a tiny little bit roomier than the earlier ones, but the interior (mainly seats) was not quite as nice as the '90 LS.. (altho the LS seats did swap in pretty nicely ) Still has that non-interference EJ22 that is so easy to work on. I still miss my 95 Lego with the Forester strut lift & the '90 LS front seats.. Don't get me wrong, the 02 Forester is nice, but yeah, miss my Lego

Aside from parts directly from Subaru - KYB struts all the way. None of the other aftermarkets are worth messing around with, imho. Too soft/mushy KYB top mounts are of good quality as well - would not even bother with any others for that, either. Have used them on multiple vehicles over the years with no problems at all For me, RockAuto is just "easy" - Even local parts stores have to order stuff for Subarus because they are not common enough in this area for them to keep things in stock (unless it is something that is common to other brands as well, like brake pads), and generally speaking, the local stores charge more than what I pay at RA, even with shipping costs. (yes, I cost compare before actually buying) Example - From my local Advance Auto... as you can see, I can't even get them at my local store... From Rock Auto... Advance is nearly twice the price for the exact same part - before we even get to shipping.. for both rear struts and shipping from RA, I spent $136.70 and they were delivered to my door - today.

the height adjustable air suspension would have been on the LS model, not typically an L (i had a 90 LS wagon & loved it - except for the blown air struts that got converted over to standard struts)

No, none of that is necessary. just replace the PCV valve and call it a day

side mirrors are pretty easy to replace. Look here for FSM (Factory Service Manual): http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ I am not familiar with the newer models, but all of the ones I have been around (late 80s to 2006) there is a trim panel on the inside that pops off to expose the nuts that secure the mirror to the door. Most likely will need to pop the door panel loose to access the wiring harness connectors, but that is not usually all that difficult either. Just take your time so you don't break anything

Rock auto is quite quick with shipping.. ordered rear struts for my forester over the weekend (sunday).. they will be here tomorrow

nope, sorry, have not & don't see a need to. The car does not call for it, so why would I go to the added expense of something that could potentially cause harm?

the big difference is going to be in weight of the car - with the wagon being heavier - more glass and roof the sedan struts might work for a while, but will possibly give your car a "saggy butt" appearance and most likely wear out faster. Rockauto has the correct ones for the wagon.. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,2005,legacy,2.5l+h4,1430732,suspension,strut+/+coil+spring+/+mount+assembly,15174

ok, sorry, missed the bit about the fuse making it disappear.. that is a bit of an odd one...

try here: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Impreza/

a new replacement unit is not that expensive https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,2014,legacy,2.5l+h4,3305964,body,outside+mirror+&+glass+assembly,1304 comes unpainted, so would have to be painted to match, but not that big of a deal.

Texan - Changing out the propshaft would kind of preclude that issue... how old are the struts? just did fronts on my 02 forester - they were so bad that I had a TERRIBLE vibration -most pronounced on left front - the wheel was "bouncing" (commonly seen on minivans, usually in the rear...) About to do rear struts as well, but had to wait for funds availability or they all would have been done at the same time. Point is, after changing the struts, the vibration is gone.

Me either. The only ones I have seen are the Monroe's and I wont use them. it is KYB for me and my Subarus

gonna throw this out there - maybe way off base, but then again, maybe not.. worn out/torn bushing or mount somewhere? I watched your video, did not hear any "rattle", but did hear what sounded to me like a "thunk" at one point.. without actually being in the car it is really hard to tell

for "other makes and models" are the key words here. there is no such readily available creature for a Subaru. to the OP - you could take the time to research part numbers for a newer model that does have brand name quick struts available - compare bare strut to bare strut and see if the part numbers are the same. If they are, then you could possibly use assemblies for a newer vehicle than yours. But the fact remains, for your specific year, there is no quick strut available, nor is there a "strut delete" option available

You don't seem to understand that you will not be able to get complete quick strut assemblies for a 22 yr old car. You either do it yourself, or you pay someone else to do it. those are your choices. pick one

very few full strut assemblies (what you call "quick struts") are available for the older Subarus - you are dealing with a 22 yr old vehicle here - and usually only Monroe, which tend to be rather soft. I just put new front struts under my 2002 Forester today. I could have gotten the Monroe assemblies, but I don't like the ride of those. I prefer the feel of KYB struts and there are no assemblies made with those available for this vehicle. compressing the spring is not that terrible, if you take the appropriate precautions - most kits have a safety catch, use it, take your time, and work both sides evenly. you can either buy a spring compressor kit or possibly rent one. One word of caution - either way do NOT use power tools on the bolt type! You will destroy the threads on the bolts. we have done struts often enough (multiple vehicles) that we purchased one of the hydraulic spring compressors from horrible freight. honestly, i don't recommend it, lol. it does work, but getting things to line up correctly when installing the new strut can be a bit of a headache. the only other option is create your own "quick strut" assembly by purchasing all new parts - strut, spring, top mounts, etc - and putting everything together before you start pulling the old ones out of the car.. either way, you are going to have to compress a spring, and you will want to get new front mounts at the very least. My car is several years newer than yours and mine were completely shot - the grease was coming out of the bearing, and you could actually see the balls inside. or, you pay someone else to do it for you. Your choice.

if you can, return it and get your money back and go get a low miles used shaft from car-part.com

then the latch needs adjusting. the hatch itself should not rattle when driving down the road now the interior panels can often rattle some, but that is a different kettle of fish

is it brand new OEM or aftermarket new? Yes, it does make a difference. Most parts store alternators are not "new" - they are remanufactured - and have a high failure rate within the first year. If it is a parts store unit with any kind of warranty - take it back, get your money back (as much as they will give you) and invest in an OEM unit - even a used OEM one from a junkyard is preferable to the aftermarket ones.

also prevents the hatch from rattling when driving down rough roads.

you want NTN bearings.. or is that NKN?? dang it all.. paging @GeneralDisorder

search for "axle shaft" - on the next screen it will ask you front or rear