heartless

what type of bulb is supposed to be in the tail light? your owners manual should give you this information. if it is saying an 1157 type bulb (there are multiple pre/post additions - look at the number itself) then it is very possible the bulb is faulty. an 1157 type has 2 filaments, one for tail light function, the other for brake light function - both in one bulb. However, it would be quite odd to have both tail light filaments fail, but brake lights working. there is a separate bulb that does light to the side to make the car more visible from the side.. I guess you need to investigate the bulb configuration on the car.. how many bulbs are there facing the back of the car, and do all of them function correctly I am not familiar with the 2015 Impreza, so can not really offer you much in the way of help

i agree with Larry... the 95 is a great year, but going in with a laundry list of what it needs and the costs associated with those needs may work in your favor. and being as it needs struts anyway, you might want to consider doing a strut lift on it. I loved it on mine.

could not agree more. My 1st Subaru - an 89 GL wagon, 5 spd - needed a clutch when I bought it (super cheaply). Clutch got replaced along with new brakes and a few other items, and i drove the snot out of that car for over 8 years on the same clutch with no issue at all, then gave the car to my daughter, who also had no problems with it. Replaced the brakes once during those 8+ years. Timing belts were done a couple of times. Now, wheel bearings - that was a whole different issue, LOL - those got replaced a few times. i put that off to cheap bearings - live and learn. the point being, the car was 11yrs old when I got it, with approx 150k on the clock... it was nearing 300k when it was permanently retired in 2012 due to structural rust and to my knowledge, had 2 clutches in its entire 23 yr life. Learn how to properly drive one and they will last a long time.

That is quite the claim. i used to drive for a living (semi) so probably have many more miles under my belt than the average person. granted, semis and cars are a little different, but not by that much - everything is basically just scaled up. Never took the semi out of gear and just coasted/used just the brakes to stop - always had it in the appropriate gear for the speed I was at - it is more about maintaining control, and being able to accelerate if need be, to get out of a potential bad situation.

yes, it was about the higher end seats into the lower end car.. the stock seats in the 95 L were just shot and like sitting on bare plywood. the side bolsters were flattened and unsupportive, upholstery was pretty worn, too. kind of think that someone very large had owned the car for a long time before I got it, altho the people I bought it from were not big people (but they were not the original owners, either). the seats from the 90 LS were in much better condition all the way around.

just as an FYI - the seats from my old 90 LS worked a treat in the 95 L i had.. did have to swap out the seat-belt buckles, but that was easy to do. the seats themselves bolted right in and were WAY more comfortable. =)

those wires are going to be about 99% of your issue. They are JUNK. This has been discussed MANY times over the years. They might be fine for a ford, chevy or dodge, but NEVER for a Subaru. Get them off the car and replace with either genuine Subaru wires, or the appropriate NGK brand wires.

both of our 1990 Legacy's had that grill style.. one was an LS (red one), the other just an L

this, for sure.. if it is even close to being due, do it. also 100% agree with filling the block first via the upper hose, preferably with the nose of the car in the air, then connect the hose & fill radiator. Never had an issue doing it this way.

short answer is Yes, the Forester struts (and springs) will fit on your Legacy. As lmdew mentioned, there may be some minor alignment issues, but those can sorted out. I did this on a 95 Legacy a few years back.. loved the added height and the ability to put the Forester 15in wheels on it. While the rear trailing arm is recommended, it is not a "must" if you can live with the rear wheels not being perfectly centered in the opening. I had no rubbing issues with my 95, but yeah, it was noticeable that the wheel was slightly forward in the wheel well...

for future reference, pretty much any wiring diagram (and all other info) you could want can be found here: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/

don't ever just cut wires.. you can cause more problems than it solves. Pull the fuse for the tail/clearance lights in the fuse box, but only when the car is stopped/shut off, until you can find the source of the issue and correct it properly. or, you can try unplugging the column switch - you will have to remove the covers to get to it, but that should just be a few screws accessed from the bottom side of the column. you can access the wiring diagrams for your car here: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/

you could, in theory, use the stock jack under the rear diff, and use the jack stands at the stock lift points, but I would definitely use caution while jacking. other than that, I really cant offer any other suggestions as we don't have anything that new here, and we do have & use a floor jack for jacking up.

That is all well and good, but where to lift from is not the question. the question was where to place a jack stand after lifting

i have used both the polishing "kits" and done hand polishing with wet/dry papers down to about 2000 grit.. best finish I ever got was using the wet/dry papers (wet, of course) and finishing with Meguire's Plast-X plastic polish. it is time consuming to get it right by hand, but well worth the time & effort involved.

hearing gurgling in the dash usually means air in the heater core. it needs to be bled more.

its a Forester.. pics posted on the facebook group

Paypal works just fine, just made a donation myself.. Very happy to have the USMB back up and running again.

fwiw - the haynes manual is pretty useless aside from the most basic of things.. the link I gave you will have much more useful information in it (and more accurate)

you can find wiring schematics here: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ Sadly, 1990-1994 are all lumped together in one folder under the Legacy/Outback section, but it is better than nothing at all, and since very little changed during those years it should help.

valve covers are a rubber gasket, & fairly easy to replace. they get hard & brittle over time and just don't seal well anymore. hardest part of the job is getting the clearance to remove the covers to replace the gaskets.

it is supposed to do this when it is really cold out.. fluid needs to hit a certain temp level before shifting - so this is not an actual problem. when it is sub-zero temps around here it is not uncommon for mine to hold "3" for 5 or more miles before finally shifting.. just go easy on it till it warms up. as for the spots in the drive.. as already mentioned.. check ALL fluid levels.

actually, it is not that unusual.. have had several myself, and more than one had rusty fuel pump nuts.. patience and a lot of PB Blaster/favorite penetrating oil is what is required here.. don't want to break one of those little studs

best course of action here would be to find a good alternator/starter rebuild shop that has a good reputation in your area... ask around. pick up a used unit from a yard.. swap it in, and get your original one rebuilt with quality parts.. once done, put it back in the car. Or, if you can live without the car for a few days/week, just take the alt in & have it done, skip the used one. I did this on my 95 Legacy.. except I already had an aftermarket handy to stuff in while the original got rebuilt. Yes, it was a little bit more cost than just buying one, but well worth it.

i may have to try this method.. currently fighting with squealing brakes for no obvious reason.. pads are good and wearing evenly, caliper pins are not seized up, rear drum shoes are good.. altho the one did have a bit more dust in it than the other did.. but yeah, nothing obviously wrong. just an annoying squeal periodically.... sounds like the squealers on the disc brakes, but they are not even close to touching yet.