heartless

plenty of sources for FSMs out there.. my usual source is http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ Should list all torque specs for a given location...

the fact it is a 5spd manual is what is hindering sale here... seems no one but us "old timers" know how to drive them. KBB ranks this car in the $1700-3250 range for price in "very good" condition for "private party" sale in PA (picking a random PA zipcode and using basic options) my 2004 Forester was for sale for a while @ $2200 - had many lookers until they realized it was a manual, not an automatic.. and I picked it up for $2000 in cash (in north-central WI) due to it being due for a timing job, and some other minor issues. Most used car buyers are not interested in how special or rare a car may be.. that is a very small group of buyers, and they are few and far between. If you really are set on selling it as something to be coveted for what it is, raise the price to $6500 and advertise it as "rare".. see what happens.

i tend to err on the side of caution more often than not. and I was taught never to run tires at the maximum pressure listed on the tire. Just good practice not to

you should be... it can happen, even in the dead of winter. again, the tire pressure noted on the tire is going to be the MAXIMUM - tires heat up when driving, yes, even in cold weather... heating increases pressure. thus, you do NOT want to run the tires at the maximum pressure indicated on the tire.. google search says ~25% under or over the recommended pressures of the vehicle... so yeah, about 40 is going to be the tripping point. otherwise, short of taking it to a dealer to have the monitors reset not much one can do.

as long as you stay UNDER the max pressure for a given tire size/brand.. yeah, i usually run mine slightly over stock psi as well. doing a quick search, it looks like stock pressures are 32 front & 29-30 rear.. with a max pressure rating of 50, you can easily run 40 or so (cold pressures) but dont take it all the way to 50.. leave a little room for expansion.

that is most likely the "maximum" pressure recommendation. You really dont need (or want) to run that much pressure.. air pressure will increase with driving, so setting pressure to the max on a cold tire is not a good idea - unless of course you want to blow a tire on a hot day... what is the factory recommendation and how much bigger did you go? I would probably run a pressure somewhere in between the factory recommendation and the max pressure indicated on the tire.. Example Factory recommended = 32psi Tire's maximum pressure = 50psi I would suggest 40-42 psi

first step is to go download a service manual for your car.. I generally use this site for my Subaru manual needs might take a bit of digging around in the manual, looking for all the relevant bits, but i am sure you can figure it out... there is an electrical "link" of sorts between the ignition tumbler and the gear selector - as in the ignition needs to be in the "ON" position in order for the selector release to operate properly, but not sure if maybe something was damaged somehow...

well.. it wont connect to anything unless i turn it on.. even maps wont show my current location without turning it on, so.. better than just leaving stuff turned on 24/7

same here.. talk about creepy... and while i do have a "smart phone" the wifi/data is turned OFF unless I am actually in need of using it which is not very often. I dont use my phone for much other than phone calls or text messaging.. I wont own a fitbit, or any other similar device, either.

completely agree!

at 213K it is due anyway, if it hasnt been done recently. (and if it has been, then shame on not doing water pump as well)

ordered? you can buy injector cleaner just about anywhere - even Walmart. Regardless, injector cleaner is not going to help you with this issue. your misfire is not a fuel delivery problem, it is a spark problem - or lack thereof. Lack of spark is one of (or a combination of) 3 things... coil, wires or plugs. (fuel injectors have absolutely nothing to do with lack of spark.) how much damage depends on how bad things are, and how long it stays that way.. long term, you can do a lot of damage - to pistons, valves, and cat converter..

1st question is does this car have a single serpentine belt? or are there 2 separate belts - 1 for alternator & power steering, 1 for AC compressor? either way.. check the idler/tensioning pulleys to make sure they spin freely and smoothly.. single serpentine belt - the idler pulley is known problem area, the bearings give out regularly and need to be replaced.. it is possible to purchase just the bearing and press old out/new in... or replace the whole part Two belt system - rule #1 - if one belt goes, replace both. Should also check the tensioner pulley for the AC unit - make sure it spins smooth and easy. Making sure you have the correct tension on the belts is also important.. too loose and they will squeal, too tight and they will break prematurely. there should be roughly 3/8"-1/2" of "give" on the longest free section of belt (when pressing on it with your finger) All that said.. have you checked all fuses & relays (underhood and under dash)? also, check wiring carefully in the front going to the lights, make sure nothing is damaged.

if the hg leak is still small, it might take a while for it to show up again after refilling the coolant - as in 500-1000 miles.. all depends on how bad it is currently. I have had overflow bottles look nasty before and there was nothing actually wrong... just needed a good cleaning. I bought a dryer vent lint brush (something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Ettore-48400-Dryer-Cleaning-Brush/dp/B00972B60K?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER ) to clean out the overflow bottles... a little bit of Dawn dish soap gets any oily residue out, the long brush can get all the way down to the bottom - rinse thoroughly with cold water to kill any remaining soap before putting it back and refilling. I would honestly be more concerned about the water pipe that runs along the top of the block leaking - usually at the point the small tube splits off to feed the throttle body.. I have had way more problems with that than with headgaskets.

i believe the OE supplier is Diamond, not Bosch. generally speaking, a misfire is usually caused by: a) bad coil b) bad plug wires c) bad plugs not always, but usually...

for now.... but hey, glad you got it replaced under guarantee this does not bode well for the next time there is a failure. Hopefully you dont have one,

with what? aftermarket or used Subaru OEM? did you change the wires, too? also with what? what about spark plugs? again, with what? on all of those it DOES matter what you use.. having owned a 2002 Forester, i am sure that it takes basic copper core NGK spark plugs (owner's manual lists BKR5E-11, or BKR6E-11 (the 6 being colder than the 5) with a gap of 0.039-0.043 (i generally set mine at 0.040 for simplicity) Wires should be OE or NGK ONLY for reliability - anything else is a waste of your money.. parts store brands almost always cause firing problems. for the coil pack.. i would honestly go with a used OE unit over anything aftermarket.. aftermarket is more likely to fail prematurely than OE will.. If you are concerned about corrosion issues, then order one from a JY out of your area.. like Colorado, Idaho, or something.. someplace that does not use salt or other chemicals on the roads. car-part.com is your friend here. Or check with lmdew.. he lives in CO and can probably help you out. beyond that, when is the last time it got a fresh air filter? have you checked/cleaned the air flow sensor? (a dirty air flow sensor can cause issues, too... ) and yes, raw gas thru the cat convertor can spell trouble..

yeah, ok you dont have the rust we have here.. but i bet none of those have a "known" failing transmission, either.. Nobody wants to deal with that kind of thing, so trying to sell as is, you can expect 1/4 to maybe 1/3 of the average price.. and like el freddo said.. expect to get lowballed even more. you want that kind of money - fix the tranny problem.

good luck selling it as is... you might get $5-600 for it, if you are lucky,,, not many will be interested in a car with high miles and a failing tranny fix it and you can get a lot more for it, but still probably less than $1500

looking at opposed forces diagrams, looks like the first model year of the "shock" style rear suspension is going to be 2008-ish (manufacturing date of Nov 2007 and beyond) before that shows the larger style struts http://opposedforces.com/parts/forester/ might be aware that USDM had a recall on 2013-2015 models for spring problems.. not sure about Canadian models

to be fair, i was pretty sure it was the sending unit after seeing the oil on it that obviously came up thru the unit.. there was no oil on the block anywhere just on the top of the sending unit where the wire connected. and this is not the first one I have had fail.. just the first one that went the way it did... the other was on a 1990 Legacy and when it went, it WENT.. puking oil all over the place.. made a heck of a mess

yup, you got it right... and i drove around for several months with the silly thing unplugged, too.. made an attempt to get at it back in March or so.. but could not get the alternator tensioning bolt (the long one) to budge at the time... soaked it in penetrating oil, and then kinda just let it go/forgot about it.. until we got around to doing the timing job.. that bolt did break.. thank goodness for parts cars!

turn around time is not even a concern.. other than it would be nice to have it done for backup use. Partner has been the owner/driver of the car since 2014 so... only been the last year - year & a half that have been problematic.

yes, lucky you.. not sure i could do that anymore.. between arthritis and fibro.. just too painful... i miss the days that I could do pretty much what i wanted to do, when i wanted to do it. my experience with the pedal thing that lmdew describes had to do with cruise control on a manual, and the switch was on the other side (above, not below) for the clutch pedal, but same basic situation.. the switch was not being depressed properly because of a missing pad on the pedal shaft.

what lmdew said.. ^^ the brake switch is not a micro switch at all.. it is actually kind of large in overall size.