heartless

the metal nipple is the part that is leaking - not the actual hose. that nipple is a part of the pump assembly. you can see the crack just above the connector. If it were me, I would be buying roughly 8-10 feet of hp fuel injection hose of the appropriate diameter - enough to go from the tank to where it connects up front and some quality hose clamps. remove the existing hose from the nipple & carefully cut off the end of the nipple with the connector - close to where that yellow cover is...I suggest a hacksaw blade for this. use the existing hose to help you feed the new hose through the gap, and route it up to the front. once you have everything routed & properly attached to the car - slide a couple of quality hose clamps over the hose & slip the new hose over that metal nipple until it covers the whole thing - move the clamps down over the where the nipple is & secure them. attach were needed up front. Done. Either that, or get a new/used pump assembly in better condition as already suggested.

a VW is not a Subaru - we do not know how their cars are wired - they may be different. I am in agreement with Gloyale - the OBD port is for an OBD reader ONLY. If your cars are sitting for so long that you are worried about the batteries dying, you should look into getting a proper battery maintainer and hook it up properly.

sorry but no - those green connectors should NOT be connected for normal daily operation. They are test connectors used to test relays and such. and unless I miss my guess, the white ones are also test connectors - on older models they were black. Neither should be connected for typical daily driving. They don't typically cause problems if plugged in, but they really should not be left plugged in.

Well, my trusty Forester is all back together again, runs, and no longer spews coolant all over the place! Yay! all I can say is this was definitely an adventure, lol. from discovering the 2nd hole - in the bypass tube, to getting doused with coolant when removing the small bypass hose at the bottom (was expecting it to come out, just not in the direction it did) to forgetting to plug a sensor back in during reassembly.. (car wont start without the crank sensor plugged in, lol) but I am glad it is done, and I can enjoy my Subaru again. just need to keep an eye on coolant level for a few days and we are hopefully good to go for what is shaping up to be a HOT summer. I am looking at this little adventure this way - it was about due for a coolant flush anyway, so it is all good.

getting the tank, and installing it would have been two very different things... there was no way on God's green earth that I was going to be able to drop the rear end to change the tank... yes, it was that rusty..

funny, but I am in the midst of basically the same job on my 2002 Forester with EJ251.. had holes in the heater hose pipes, and possibly a failed o-ring for the crossover.. so yeah, they do rust through. hopefully you caught it early enough. and yes, there are most definitely gaskets for the intake.

Excellent save, Larry! I kinda miss my old 95 - except for the leaky gas tank.. lol (and yes, it was the tank itself, not the filler neck, I replaced the neck & it still leaked)

LOL - OTC pain meds are a MUST for me anymore... I generally use Aleve as it lasts longer than ibuprofen does... but even then.. some days are rougher than others

bypass pipe came in today - picked it up after work (got done a little early today), came home and tore back into the Foz to get it swapped out and start putting things back together. I hate driving the Dodge Ram pickup! LOL but man, what a bit of a chore to get that pipe out of the car and thread the new one into place... had to unbolt the AC compressor and lift it up out of the way to get enough clearance to do the job. That & good dousing with antifreeze from the water pump when I disconnected the little bypass hose... made for a fun evening. but, bypass tube has been replaced, the new crossover pipe & new o-rings are in, the intake is back in place (with new gaskets), it is just a matter of reconnecting everything that was disconnected and refilling with fresh coolant now - oh yeah, and bolting the AC compressor back in place (kind of a pain getting to a couple of those bolts). Hoping to have it all wrapped up and ready to run by tomorrow evening (depending on how late I have to work). All in all, not doing too badly for an old broad with arthritic knees, hip and hands, LOL (I used to enjoy doing stuff like this, but it gets harder to do every year)

on the 90-94s there are a pair of single wire test connectors up under the dash - usually to the left of the steering column - sometimes still taped up in the harness so not easily seen. there is a pair of green ones, and a pair of black ones. each pair has a specific function. I used to know what did what, but it has been a while... a search should turn up the info, however

my old 95 had a bad coil... but it was throwing misfire codes (it was also an OBDII system, so..) would be fine in dry weather, but any hint of dampness would cause it to act up. Once I found the sparking coil, I swapped it out with a used one from my old retired 90 Legacy and it ran great.

Yeah, I was seriously concerned about those long skinny bolts after your earlier comment, but dosing everything with PB Blaster as soon as we could get to them and taking our time seems to have paid off. One looks nearly brand new, the other 3 have a little corrosion on them, but not too terrible. Yeah, you can get away with that. Not so much up here in Wisconsin, where actual temps can drop into the -20s & occasionally -30s in the winter months. but yeah, the part was not expensive at all... the "local" dealer seems to have some serious markup tho - they list it at $34 & change (plus tax), but Advance Auto could get it for $27 (including taxes & a shipping charge) but would take a couple of days. Needless to say, it was ordered from Advance. One of the drawbacks to where I live is Subaru is not a real common vehicle (especially the older ones), so nobody really stocks parts for them. I am amazed when I need something (aside from oil filters & such) & it is actually in stock. LOL

The good news is we got the intake off & crossover unbolted without breaking any bolts! yay! the bad news is, i have discovered yet another leak in the system... boo! the bypass pipe has a small pinhole.. discovered when mopping up coolant... wiped off the stub that feeds the throttle body and it immediately became wet again.. so back to square one - more parts ordering. all open orifices have been covered with clean rags, intake has been set on top of those to keep them in place & keep critters out and now we wait for the new bypass pipe to come in - should be here wednesday. kind of bummed, but at least I wont have to do this job twice, lol. Better to find it now & fix it than have it become a problem down the road.

well, parts arrived this evening, so as long as the weather stays decent, it will be all about tearing into things in the morning. hope for no broken bolts!

Thanks for coming back & posting the update and how you fixed your car! And yes, alternators can cause all sorts of weird problems. I had one that would cause issues when it got warm, too, but thankfully, mine ended up being easier to diagnose.

kind of have to agree with the others - the SVX is a sexy car, to be sure, but because it is SO unique (even within the Subaru family) it is not an ideal commuting car. You would be far better served by an Outback, Legacy, Forester, or Impreza (with the Impreza probably the most fuel efficient of the bunch) My sister-in-law & her hubby had one as a "weekend" car - I was so jealous - until they started having little issues here & there and found out just how much it cost to keep it going.. yeah.. not a good commuter at all.

I have had them break before - thankfully on non-interference engines.

oh boy! you are such a ray of sunshine, GD - but thanks for the warning.

No such creature in my area, sadly. And come to find out, the part number the "local" dealer (over an hour away) tried to sell me was not the correct part # for my car. I verified this through another dealership parts department. At any rate, with time being of the essence here, parts have been ordered - crossover, o-rings & intake gaskets - all from the same place. Screw it, if I have to go in there, I am doing it right & doing it one time and will be done with it for the rest of the car's life (hopefully). At nearly 240K I guess I shouldn't complain too much, LOL Appreciate the offers and advice, guys, but it is a done deal except for the waiting for the stuff to get here. Not really looking forward to the job, but so be it.

fairly certain it is that stub pipe for the heater hose - saw a small stream of coolant coming out.. and there is rust on it.. yeah, I live in the rust belt.. so what all is going to be needed to do this? Obviously the crossover pipe & o-rings, fresh coolant, and intake gaskets - what else should I be getting?

oofta - not what I was hoping to hear at all. I have made a temporary repair with a length of hose & several hose clamps, but yeah, gonna have to do something a bit more permanent soon.

so discovered today that my trusty 2002 Forester with nearly 240K on the clock has developed a coolant leak in the heater hose stub pipe that connects to the crossover... or at least I am about 98% sure that is where it is leaking... (see diagram for clarity - the circled bit) She has not been overheated (yet) and I would really like to prevent that from happening It does not appear that this piece can be purchased separately from the crossover pipe, and I don't need the whole damn thing.. (nor do I wish to remove the entire intake to replace the whole thing) - but it does appear to be bolted on to the crossover. there are two bolts - top & bottom - on a flange that appears to be a part of that pipe So - desperately seeking a replacement. Please - someone has to have one of these things around in decent condition? I am willing to pay for the part & shipping, just need one very soon!

As Gloyal said, it really is not that bad.. take your time with things, pay attention to the routing, and how things fit together. the first one I had a rear hatch replacement on, the wiring had been cut, so I had to spend hours sorting things out & figuring out what went where - trust me, that was a mess. the second one, yeah, not nearly as bad when the wiring is complete. It is heavy, so a second pair of hands is very useful to get it bolted up and the support struts installed. somebody mentioned tying a string to the hatch harness before pulling it out - this is an EXCELLENT idea.. make it long enough that there is plenty left once you get the harness out, untie the string & leave it hang until you are ready to feed the new one in.. use the string to help feed the new harness in.

for the hatch, it is far more cost effective to replace the whole hatch. I have had a side rear window swapped out with a used one... had a donor car on hand tho... was $50 to take it out of the donor, & $50 to put it in my DD but hatch glass? Yeah, have just replaced the whole hatch - on 2 different cars now... on one the hatch was just rusty as all heck - had holes in it, the other was due to broken glass.

and for those that "insist" that some '96s are interference... With cars, the new "model year" typically begins in the 4th quarter of the previous calendar year... so cars that have a build date of 10/96 thru 12/96 are actually '97 model year..