heartless

Finally got the parts and had the time to do the timing belt job on the new to us 2002 Forester... got all the old stuff out without too many issues, but when I went to install the new tensioner, I discovered the threads in the mounting hole are seriously damaged - somebody apparently way over-torqued it when the belt was done last... (some people should not be allowed to work on cars) so now what do I do? just for clarification purposes - it is the block that is stripped out.

i have been running a 95 legacy with forester struts/springs for well over a year with no alignment issues. tires are wearing fine, nothing out of the ordinary

that is what I am finding out, lol. Just confirmed it is just the single O2 sensor, so that is easily taken care of (same basic exhaust as my 95 Lego) found the green test connectors, hooked them up and cycled the system - not getting any kind of response on that evap solenoid in the back... there is a fair bit of rust back under there, too - a short metal pipe between two of the rubber hoses is looking pretty rough (runs across the top of the canister) - more digging is in order to determine just how bad things are, and to get the solenoid out and test further before ordering parts. all 3 evap codes, and the O2 code came back after just starting the car, so O2 will definitely be ordered along with a complete timing kit, and with a bit more testing, thinking the evap solenoid will be on order as well..

Ok, that gives me a place to start working from, thanks to both of you. Texan - that video is fantastic! thank you! Gary, thanks for the info.

Thanks Fairtax! I am used to the older models with only one O2 sensor - got a lot more to learn on this newer beast. lol just out of curiosity, would a loose fuel cap cause that P1400 to set? and possibly the others? the fuel cap was not very tight when I went to put some gas in it to drive it home...

Replace knock and O2 sensors for 1 & 5. knock sensor = easy... but guessing this model has more than one O2 sensor? not sure which one? Anyone have any further insight on that one? Emissions - check does the forester have that black box contraption under the back passengers side rear corner? Look for damage, mud, rust there. Will look into that. Those head gaskets leak externally. Yours usually coolant, sometimes oil. Check coolant levels regularly. If it gets too low it'll overheat due to low coolant but not directly like older EJ25 head gaskets. Replaced head gaskets, if they fail, have wider variation of failure modes. Can overheat without coolant being low. Good info to know. Add Subaru Coolant Conditioner now and any coolant refill. Will see about getting a bottle for when we do the timing job since water pump will be getting replaced at the same time. Subaru had a recall and extended 100,000 mile head gasket warranty on 00-02 models. Might be able to ask Subaru if that car was ever worked on in the past. Will see what we can find out. thanks for that info.

Well, finally had a few minutes to get codes - had to wiggle the plug to get it to stay connected... Code reader is an Actron CP1975 The codes are listed in order retrieved, with as much info as the tool gave me.. 1. P0328 - Knock Sensor 1 circuit high input bank 1 or sensor 1 2. P0447 - Evap Emission Control System Vent Circuit Open 3. P1400 - Manufacturer Control Auxiliary Emissions Controls 4. P0442 - Evap Emission Control System Leak (small) 5. P0037 - HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 2 Heater Circuit Low there were also 3 codes listed as pending, all of which have hard set codes listed above... P1. P0447 P2. P0442 P3. P0037 Knock sensor is an easy one... But would be grateful for any info on the others, especially the emissions stuff... I was able to clear the codes successfully this time, so now to get it registered so it can be driven and see which ones come back...

try here: http://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?18087-Subaru-Factory-Service-Manuals-%28FSM%29-Every-Model-USDM-EU

Thanks guys. We are pretty happy with the purchase and the price we got it for. I will update after I get a better reading on the codes & what those are, and get to spend a little more time poking around (probably this weekend)

took the code reader with us when we went to pick it up - had several active and pending codes, but for some reason the reader was having difficulty maintaining a connection with the car (it is an Actron reader and works great on both my 1995 and the other half's 2006, so not sure why it was acting up with the 2002 will investigate that more later) 1st code listed was knock sensor, O2 was in there as well (both active and pending - different banks maybe? - again, will investigate more later) Codes aside, the car runs great, drove it the 20 miles home with no issues. Coolant temp was rock steady the whole way, and fans function as they should (kicked on when I parked and let it idle for a few minutes) wtdash - yeah, I am aware of the fuel filler neck issues, and have some concern on this one - the part visible in the fuel door area doesn't look pretty, in spite of the good condition of the rest of the car. Anyway, on to pictures of the new ride...

Ok, good to know. Kinda of bummed about the no 2.2 thing, but I can live with it. That is the plan. The old man we are buying it from has only had it for 4 years (he thinks maybe 30K miles in that time) and has no idea when the belts & such were done last... No maintenance records to speak of, other than oil changes. it does have a check engine light on, will find out later today what the code is. He had taken it to O'Reilly's and had it read, but couldn't remember exactly what it was other than "some sensor", LOL. We have a code reader we can take a long with this evening when we go pick it up.

Just picked up a 2002 Forester L with the EJ251, auto, in good condition for it's age and location. The interior is nearly showroom perfect, belying the 219,200 miles on the odometer (guessing mostly highway miles). It runs and drives nicely, temp was rock steady for the short test drive (nearly out of gas, so we didn't go far), & tranny shifted fine. So, educate me (us) on the pros & cons of this little beast. things to look out for? is this one prone to head gasket issues? if so, how do they manifest? worst case scenario, how much of a pain would it be to swap in a 95 EJ22? our plan before it becomes a daily driver will be a timing belt job, and addressing the rear hatch not latching.

try this: https://www.parksubaruoemparts.com/parts/1994/SUBARU/Legacy/L/?siteid=215943&vehicleid=949&section=REAR%20SUSPENSION&group=REAR%20SUSPENSION&subgroup=STRUTS%20%26%20SUSPENSION%20COMPONENTS&component=Spring I purchased springs from them when I upgraded my suspension on my 95 Legacy. Stuff was shipped in a reasonable amount of time, too.

i would think a Forester jack would work fine as they generally sit about the same height as an Outback

actually, the 1990 had a cast plate, not plastic. but yeah, they can and do leak (sealant gives out with age) definitely check that cam shaft retainer cap.

unfortunately once they get rusted in, a good used knuckle is the way to go.. been there and done that. As already mentioned, even if you do manage to get the bolt out you still need to get the old joint out, and that can be just as bad, if not worse, than the bolt we have had some pretty good success on some rusted bolts using a product called "Freeze Off" by CRC - but it isnt exactly cheap and results can vary

just as an FYI - it is not hard to get higher clearance on a standard legacy.. a simple strut assembly swap will do the trick. I am running a 95 Legacy L wagon with Forester struts/springs and Forester 15" wheels - the extra height is nice on old knees.

Fairtax - that picture is priceless! I love how the ring just floats in mid air, held in place by the caliper... as for how mine got in the condition they were in - they were like that when I got the car. I suspect it did sit for a while at some point... it was not being driven when I bought it (cheaply) due to tranny issues (no reverse) how long did it sit? hard to say, and the last driver was a teenager... The front rotors were not nearly as bad, but they were getting grooves worn in them, so I replaced those as well. surprisingly enough, the caliper pins were not that bad. a bit of cleaning and re-lubing, new rotors and pads all the way around, and she was good to go. I did have to replace one front caliper due to a seized piston...

when they start to look like these - that is when replacement is due. those are off my 1995 Legacy with well over 200K and living in Northern Wisconsin (salt!)

cheap wires will do that on these cars... the best wires for a Subaru are the NGK wires. I have never had a problem out of their wires, or plugs for that matter. you want set part number RCFX-41 (old number was 8004) for your 95 $36.79 a set at RockAuto.com http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=946470&cc=1269806&jsn=437

that is very "old school" thinking and really does not apply here. Every Subaru I have owned has gone WELL over 200,000 with few, if any, issues. the chassis' gave out before motors even thought about giving up (i live in the salt belt, rust is a killer). My current car (3rd Suby, a 95 Legacy, EJ22) has about 230,000 on the odometer and still going strong. The first Subaru I owned (89 GL, EA82) was still running strong, would start every time with the first twist of the ignition, and had 283K on it when it was retired due to rust issues. it was actually started and driven up on to the trailer when it was finally hauled away. The second one (90 Legacy, EJ22) had 265K when it was retired - also due to rust issues. Motor ran great. In fact, the kid I sold it to for parts poured a couple of gallons of fresh gas in it after it sat for about a year, stuffed a battery in it, and it fired up with no major issues.. ran a bit rough until the fresh gas got to the cylinders, but it ran. He drove it home. (and it also had an arcing coil pak and cheap plug wires on it...I had taken the good parts off this car to put on the current one) I know there are others out there that have higher mileage cars than I have had....and the greater majority with no major rebuilds... sorry, Mad Mechanic - I have no personal experience with the 2.5 engines, other than the 25D, which was pretty much junk...

i am just gonna throw this out there... this might be a case where 3d printing a 'designed to fit' item "might" be the answer. 3d printed nylon parts are rather strong and fairly durable if done right...

Somebody already did....

i haven't had a front wheel bearing go since the old 89 GL, LOL, but yeah, they are often difficult to diagnose with any certainty the suggestion given by fairtax is probably going to be your best bet for figuring this one out - the hub should turn smoothly and easily if the bearing is ok - any glitchiness, roughness, or binding means bearing for sure.

fluke? (the brand) I dunno - we have one the other half got many years ago - not available anymore - but it works beautifully.