heartless

we have an 06 LL Bean in the family with the 3.0 H6 - good motor - plenty of power - this thing will throw you back in your seat when you punch it. Chain driven timing = pretty much no maintenance on that. Keep the oil changed and coolant full and you should be good to go.

couple the salt with coarse sand (fine gravel really) and you get even worse problems - little rocks chipping away at the paint to let the salt get an even stronger hold on your car. They use this fine gravel on the county roads around me...the main routes get covered in salt - combine the two and it is pretty rough on a car

I ran into this same issue with my 1990 & the Mizumo kit, but no problem with the 1995 (same kit) as it already had the shallower pulleys/shorter bolts on it... design change between model years is my best guess. with my 90, i think we found a shorter bolt to fit from another motor, but, I had a couple of parts cars to scavenge stuff from - not everyone has that kind of parts availability. if you need it running, and need it now - yeah a washer will work (if you can find one to fit down in the hole the bolt goes into - seems to me we tried doing that with mine with no luck), otherwise you will need a slightly shorter bolt. IIRC, one of the other pulley bolts is a little shorter & is what we used on mine (one from a junk motor)

the 6 mo old key is more than likely a copy made from one of the other, worn out keys - the older and original keys are probably very worn - points arent as "crisp" as they should be - make a copy of that and the "new" copy is going to have the same problems... it is pretty rare for the lock tumblers to wear out - it does happen, but not often - it is usually the keys that are the problem. the metal the keys are made of wears much faster than the lock tumblers do - by design - keys are much easier (and cheaper) to replace than locksets. getting a brand new key, freshly cut using the VIN (NOT a copy!), will restore all the proper points so the tumblers move like they are supposed to. A good locksmith can sometimes do the job, with the right information, or go to a dealer and get them to cut you a fresh one. Had a similar issue on my 1990 Legacy LS. Door locks were a real chore to unlock - had to fight with them, wiggle the key around, up/down/in/out - sometimes it would work fairly quickly, other times it took several minutes - it sucked. It was so bad I hated to lock the car, even when I really needed to. I had an original key that had numbers stamped into it - I took that to a locksmith and he was able to cut me a brand new key from those numbers - not a copy - walked out to the car and tried it - the new key worked beautifully - key slid in easily, lock turned without having to fight with it, key came out easily. I had him cut me a second key right away to have as a spare.

belt was more than likely replaced at some point, OEM belts are easy to get. Water pump could very well be the original - most dont get replaced on the first timing belt job

glad to hear you (hopefully) got it sorted out. yup - top hose fill is the way to go on these...always start with the top hose, then, once it wont take anymore that way, connect hose and fill rad.

on # 2 - try swapping the hoses on the washer pumps - my bet is they were disconnected at some point and reconnected wrong. # 6 - if you cant find anyone in the buy/sell/trade here with some window switches, try www.car-part.com - used will be much cheaper than new. #'s 7 & 8 - I was gonna ask how worn is the key? worn out keys can often cause problems that a freshly cut key can sometimes fix (fresh cut from VIN, not a copy!)

doubtful that replacing the water pump is causing the issue - unless for some reason the pump is bad - you probably still have air in the system. and running it briefly ( a minute or two) without coolant shouldnt have hurt anything either - i did it with 2 of mine (90 and 95) How much coolant did you put back into it? should be around a gallon and a half or so. When refiling thru the upper rad hose, you have to fill slowly, let it bleed down into the block, fill some more, let it bleed down, repeat until it doesnt bleed down anymore. nose in the air does help - a LOT.

it is not that uncommon for the marks to be wrong - count the teeth and use a white paint pen, or a silver sharpie to make a mark at the correct count.

20 is a bit on the low side - even for winter blend fuel/warm up times... my 95 is getting around 24-25 mpg...and that is with 10-15 minute warmup times.

speedo has been doing wonky things too - have to wonder if the AT Temp flashing and the wonky speedo are related? the AT Temp light hasnt flashed again since that one time - I have been watching for it.

so far no recurrance of the MAP code since clearing it saturday - but plenty of other strange things happening with the 95... stopped to get gas last night after work, reset my tripmeter as usual, started the car and the AT Temp light is flashing at me...started driving for home and the speedo isnt working - then suddenly it starts working again - worked fine the rest of the way home... pull in the driveway, park the car and shut it off, and I hear a strange humming sound...pop the hood to find the ABS unit is freaking out - with the key off and out! disconnected the battery until i could get the darn ABS unit unplugged - reconnect battery - no more humming - car starts fine... will have to see what happens today....

my drive to & from work is about 10 miles each way... the drive to town was about 30, several stops around town, then 30 home... no code set... still no code after the drive to work this morning, or the drive home this evening may just be a temporary reprieve, but then again, it could have just been the crazy cold weather screwing with things... either way, I will take it!

while 150 miles may not seem like much, it is many thousands of revolutions of the motor, so some wear is to be expected... the pics arent really clear enough to really see what you are pointing at, but as fairtax said, unless there is a chunk missing, or the tooth is starting to tear away, then the belt should be fine. I have to ask - did the idler pulleys get replaced when the timing belt was? what condition are the pulleys in? (all of them) any rough spots on any?

well, after clearing the code again saturday morning, went to town on sunday (temps in the teens above 0) with several ignition cycles (multiple stops in town) and so far no reappearance... will have to see what happens today now that it has completely cooled. It is a bit colder again today, too - currently minus 4F...

no - not "very young" at all - 51 actually. It may be common practice in your neck of the woods, but not where I am (Wisconsin), nor where I grew up (Michigan). I guess we just have/were taught different ideas of what should be done when.

i feel confident you can pull it off, too. If I can do it (50+ yr old female), anyone can! LOL it does seem intimidating for one that has never done it, but it really isnt all that hard to do, just time consuming and a little bit fiddly. the timing cover bolts, and the old, hard oil seals will give you the most grief - just be patient and you will get there.

if it is all coming from the front, then yeah, the cam & crank seals should resolve most of that problem - oil pump reseal will help too. Just make sure the new seals are seated in straight and evenly - a light coat of new oil (smear a little on with your finger tip) will help them slide in easier.

according to this site, P0130 is O2 sensor circuit malfunction (bank 1, sensor 1)

ferox - the condensation issue is a pretty good theory, and quite plausible given the temperature extremes we have been experiencing lately - 40+ one week, to minus 10 the next! and everyone wonders why I hate winter so much!

Thank you for the wealth of information, Fairtax. I have been reading thru a bunch of your posts about this code as well as some others I found using the actual code as a search term... doncha love it with the "maybe it does, maybe it doesnt" stuff? makes diagnosing things just that much more interesting. I am hoping for some warmer weather this next week - too darn cold to be poking around under the hood outside right now - barely above 0 and kinda breezy. Nothing has been done under the hood recently aside from adding washer fluid & checking oil...both on the wrong side from the sensor & related... good to know about that little filter - I think mine has one.... seems this 95 is much fussier about things than my 90 was - only time that car ever set a code was for a major misfire (cheap aftermarket plug wires that it came with) and the O2 sensor going out - and both of those happened at the same time on the same trip. Again - thanks for the info.

if you have been driving the car with no timing issues then chances are the tensioner will be fine - worn out tensioners will allow the belt to jump time - especially when given a kick of the long pedal to try to beat a light that is about to change (been there, done that with my 90 - lol) 95 is still non-interference, so it is no real big deal if it does jump time - just the headache of the down time & resetting the timing.

I tried to do a search, but it seems the forum search software requires 4 or more characters (makes it very difficult to search for this kind of issue) For the last couple of days, my 95 Legacy, 2.2, AWD, auto with about 220K has thrown a P0106 code (thurs & fri) - both times this occured in the evening when coming home from work, temps have been ridiculoulsy cold with the wind chills (-35 to -40F) - actual air temps have been between 0F & -15F - no issues with the morning commute... and the car continues to run & drive fine for the rest of the trip home - only noticeable issue is the CEL is on. I typically start the car and let it warm up for at least 10 minutes before driving in this kind of cold. Thursday was one of the "warmer" days and we got about 3/4 inch of blowing snow that day (first day of the code) We have an Actron CP9175 code reader - the actual reading i get is: P0106 - MAP/Baro CKT Range/Perf So does the '95 actually have a MAP sensor, or is it a MAF? (i thought it was still MAF?) Could it simply be the crazy cold temps that are affecting the sensor? altho it has been crazy cold all week - this has only popped up the last couple of days... I have read in the past in other threads about solder joints in the sensor possibly cracking? could this be a source? dirty sensor? What does "CKT" mean? edit - ok, searching for the actual code comes up with a bunch of stuff, but no real clarification on the issue - is 95 MAF or MAP? I have a 90 Lego for potential parts donor - are they the same setup?

ummm, I personally would not try that, unless you really want to be doing bearings on that, too, in addition to more brake work... there has to be a reason the brake is not releasing properly - if you have replaced the caliper and the rubber hose, then there may be an issue further up the line (brake line) Does the S10 have ABS? could be something there that isnt functioning properly... if no ABS then I would be investigating proportioning valve(s) and/or master cylinder.

Huh? I have heard of a lot of things that should be done in "pairs" (ie: side to side) - brake pads, tire rod ends, shocks/struts, etc - but never have I heard of wheel bearings needing to be done in "pairs"... not even on older vehicles... That is kinda like saying you need to replace both axle shafts when only one has failed...