heartless

make sure the buttons are in place - we had a 90 that was missing the clutch pedal one when we got it... and that they operate (open/close) with pedal operation just dont confuse the brake cruise button with the normal brake light switch...

there should be a button/switch on the brake pedal arm (well above the foot pad) and if you have a manual, there will be another one behind the clutch pedal arm - again, well up there - i want to say just above the pivot point... for the vacuum line - there are two cables that run to the throttle plate - follow them back to the firewall - one will go thru the firewall with no major changes, the other will go to a small vacuum canister - that is for the cruise system

start by checking the calipers and slide pins - make sure the caliper moves freely on the pins One brake locking up like you are describing says issues with that caliper. cold start issues - would start with a basic tune-up and see where that gets you new plugs at proper gap can help a great deal having sat for a while, it could probably use some fresh gas, and maybe a bottle of Tecron run thru the tank to clean the fuel system.

the black smudges on the papertowel are more than likely from the rubber seal in the cap - it is a common thing and not really anything to stress over. the "crunchiness" you descripe is worth more concern, so yes, go get a new cap - cheap and easy. a proper drain & fill will get the greater majority of the coolant out and is pretty easy to do yourself and a lot cheaper than $140. get a large drain pan - I like the round container ones with a pour spout - makes it easier to pour the old stuff back into the empty bottles when you are all done. Cost: around $20-25 get 3 gallons of premixed 50-50 coolant - you wont use all of it - probably around 2.5 gallons - Cost: about $7, maybe $8 per gallon, times 3 = $21-24 Place drain pan under the radiator drain (usually on passenger side) remove radiator cap, open the drain valve and wait until it stops. Then, to make sure you have as much out as possible - loosen the lower radiator hose clamp at the radiator fitting, and pull it off - be prepared with the drain pan under it... this is an excellent time to check the radiator hoses over carefully. If the ends are swollen looking (where the clamps sit) or if they feel mushy, or especially weak in a spot when squeezing them, they should be replaced. To refill, make sure the radiator drain is closed, and lower hose is reconnected. If you can, jack the front of the car up a bit to help with air removal. Air will want to go to the highest point in the system. Disconnect the upper radiator hose at the radiator and slowly refill the block thru that hose. When you can see the coolant isnt draining into the block anymore, reconnect it to the radiator. There is a small plug on the passenger side top of the radiator that should be removed to help get air out as you fill. a large philips screwdriver will remove it. begin refilling the radiator slowly, give it time to work down in and let the air out. Once the radiator is full, replace the plug on the passenger side, and close the cap. Lower the car if you have jacked it up. check the level in your overflow bottle, top it off if needed - do not overfill! Start the car and bring it up to operating temp (5-15 minutes depending on air temps) Shut the car off and let it cool completely. Once it has cooled off, open the radiator cap and check the coolant level - top off if needed. For the next week, maybe 2, keep a close eye on the overflow bottle, the fluid should be kept at the proper level. you may need to add a little as the system purges of any remaining air, dont get freeked out. This method has worked wonderfully for me many times. IF you find that the coolant level in the overflow bottle is disappearing after the first couple of weeks, then you may have a bigger issue that will need further investigation.

Congrats on the new Suby! Looks like a keeper.

I am baffled as to why you have thrown all those other parts at the car when it is specifying (more than once from the sounds of it) that the MAF system is the problem? If you replaced the MAF with a used one, it is possible you got a bad one. maybe try another one? It is also possible that there is a wiring issue for that part - a chafed or broken wire, corroded connector, something that isnt right. It bears further investigation.

The level should be very near to touching the cap - at the point where the filler neck widens out. Once you take the cap off you will see. as far as cleaning the cap, you can take a look when you take the cap off - if it looks like there is a bunch of gunk built up, clean it up. I would go pick up a gallon of premixed antifreeze - no need for adding anything to it - and use that to top off your system, if you need to - cost should be about $7 or so the only way that $80 procedure is going to "fix" the problem (if it is air bubbles in the system, and it sounds like it is) is if the system is refilled and burped properly after the drain. Yes, a pressure test would point out any possible leaks, but in all honesty, I doubt that a leak is your problem. These cars a notorius for being difficult to get all the air out of the cooling system after a drain, but it is possible.

from the FSM for 97 SOHC EJ22 - should have 44 teeth between passenger side cam sprocket mark and the crank sprocket mark, drivers side should be 40.5 teeth between the crank sprocket and DS cam sprocket marks - it is that 1/2 tooth that will get you nearly every time. 97 FSM SOHC Engine section you want the one that ends with "L3456" (9th one down) for the timing belt procedures.

technically speaking, it is/was every 60K on the 90-94 model years, but very few follow that schedule anymore with improvements to belt quality over the years. the 1st gens take the exact same belt as the 2nd gens...no reason to allow 105K on one but only 60K on the other...figuring that the belt has been changed at least once, there is a good possibility it has a 105K belt on it.

yup, 90 to 94 EJ22 are/should be direct swaps. major wiring changes in MY 95 and up make anything newer a big pain to try to use. Theoretically, it could be done, but not without a lot of headaches

Take heart, man - it could be just one tooth - yes, it is a pain to do multiple times, but once you do get it right, you will know. I think most of us that have done this job have had to do it over at least once...

you would be better off trying to find a better body of the same generation (90-94) from down south or west to put that motor into. There were major wiring changes made starting in 95 that make it a difficult proposition to use 1st gen (90-94) motors in anything newer.

not positive, but I dont think you can use a code reader on the 94 - I think 95 is the frist year for th OBD II - you may have to do it the old fashioned way, plug the test connectors together and read the flashes of the LED light on the ECU under the dash. warm idle should be around 700-750 rpms pull the spark plugs and check thier condition also check the plug wires carefully

it is about due for timing belt again...nice thing about the 94 is it is non-interference, so no major worries if it does let go. I would start with the basics - filters (air and fuel), plugs, wires if needed, check vacuum lines for cracked/broken ones

WD-40 = Water Displacement formula 40 - contrary to popular belief, it is NOT a penetrating oil. PB Blaster, Liquid wrench, Seafoam Deep Creep, and several others are far superior products for penetrating thru rust to help loosen them. 1. soak the shaft with a good penetrating oil 2. give the pulley a light tap with a hammer, or the end of a wrench - you dont hit it hard, just a little tap - to create vibrations that will help the penetrating oil get deeper 3. let it sit for a few minutes, maybe give it another squirt of penetrating oil 4. try prying the pulley loose. (do not pry behind the tabs!) if there is no movement, or only a very tiny amount of movement, repeat steps 1-4 until it does come loose

might try http://www.car-part.com for t-belt covers too - you might get lucky and find something close by. sorry I cant be of much help on the ps leak thing tho, never done it.

check the door tag to verify chassis model year. engine is a little tougher to pin down if it has been changed just out of curiosity - when was the last time it had a basic tune-up? plugs, wires, etc.

you dont need to order anything... saturate the shaft with a good quality penetrating oil, and employ the method described above by both Imdew and Olnick - it might take a bit of repeat soaking, tapping, and prying, but it will come off eventually. once the rust bond is broken, it will almost fall off.

Very glad to hear of the happy ending! Yay! Now, about that kill switch... LOL

consider doing a strut lift on it, along with the forester wheels - I did it with my 95 and LOVE it!

if it is the stock radio, then yeah, it is time for a replacement. as noted above, you can go single DIN or double DIN by losing the little pocket tray underneath the stock unit - your choice. for the heater controls - it is possible you have some cracked solder joints in there (fairly common issue) I had that problem with my 90 LS wagon. I got adventurous with mine, pulled the unit out, took it apart and hit the main solder joints with a hot, fine tip soldering iron. Wasnt all that difficult a job. or you can try replacing it with one from a lower mileage car - I may even have a spare laying around here somewhere if you are in need

Primative is the only place I personally know about for the King Springs, but others may have alternate sources - maybe try google? I went with OE springs on KYB struts for my 95 Legacy - very happy with the ride, not overly harsh, but not mushy either.

your timing is off - redo using the correct hash marks - not the arrows - ever. for the crank sprocket, you need to use the hash mark on the rear side

+10 on this. Seafoam has a penetrating oil out now that isnt too bad either - Seafoam Deep Creep.

KYB is the "go to" replacement for most of us, altho I didnt know about using the 03-04 versions on the rear of the 05-09 cars - sounds like what we need to do with our new to us 06 Outback - it is still kind of bouncy even after replacments. Springs - kind of up to you - if the car has been really bouncy for a long time they could be weakened somewhat from the excess wear. Be sure to check the front top mount bearing - these do wear out and will affect handling