heartless
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Everything posted by heartless
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checking fuel injector flow certainly cant hurt, but in all honesty, 20-21 for mostly city driving is about right according to the EPA fuel economy estimates for this car http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/noframes/12124.shtml -
wait - a "dealer" told you they had to drop the tank??
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I have seen it on an EA82 before - oil saturated...wasnt pretty
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1990 thru 1994 are what is referred to as OBD-I and have to be done the old school way as described in the link above. and it doesnt matter if the light is still on or not, if it has been on - even briefly - the code will be stored in the computer's memory. this is true for both the OBD-I (what yours is) and OBD-II (for Subaru: 1995 and up) Find out what code it has stored and post it here so we can provide better assistance.
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You need to find out what the code is... directions for retreiving codes here: http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/codes.htm
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in all honesty - you should be focusing on making this car run reliably first and foremost. Catch up on all the maintenance items that were let slide, fix whatever is causing the CEL codes, etc. Once you have it running right and reliably, then you can start thinking about modifcations and lifting and what not. If the car isnt in tip top stock running form, it is a waste of time, money and energy to throw mods at it. Just my honest, and not so humble, opinion...take it for what it is.
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With stock Legacy struts you will be limited in what you can fit without them rubbing on the spring perch With Outback or Forester struts you can go larger much more easily use this to help you determine sizing... http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
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i dug up and studied the FSM diagrams and the tank itself looks the same (it is a line drawing after all, so really hard to say for sure) the only differences I could really decipher were the various things hooked up to the tank...like the evap lines... I do know that the fuel pump line hookups are different - the forester uses a different connection - but swapping the fuel pump plates will solve that. comparing each from under the vehicles, they both look the same - and the fuel pump access plates on top are the same - and what little I can see of the top from the access ports is the same... I think we are gonna try pulling the one out of the forester first - see just how hard it is going to be to get it out - and go from there.
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yeah - I know. but I got to do something and if the Forester tank will fit it would save me about $75 for a used one, plus the costs to go get it (couple hour drive one way...)
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does anyone know if the gas tank from a 98 Forester will fit a 95 Legacy? the main filler neck connection on the gas tank of my 95 Lego is in VERY bad shape - and with warmer weather it is getting rather obnoxious. No - it is NOT the filler neck itself - that has been changed out with a rust free one already - the problem is on the tank side of the filler... I would install my current fuel pump/plate as the hose connections are different on the forester - but wondering if the tank itself will fit?
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93 is still OBDI...code reader wouldnt do him much good... Gonna have to go old school to read any CEL codes on this one... http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/codes.htm
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http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/
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have purchased a few things from them and never had a problem - but then again, never had to return anything either. Prices are good, but definitely shop around first. I price compare - with shipping costs included - on several sites before I pull the plug and buy, sometimes partsgeek comes out best overall price, sometimes they dont.
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agree on the Outback - Outback will be longer than a Forester giving you more room to stretch out.
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neither of the axles on the car have any green paint on them - but we are in Wisconsin - known for harsh winters and heavy salt usage... after replacing front brake pads today and finding loads of flung off grease on the back, lower side of the drivers side caliper, I am kind of leaning to the left one being the problem axle - as in torn boot flinging grease, axle replaced with an aftermarket. It is possible that both sides are for that matter...
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Forester strut swap here - Love it! Adds roughly 2 inches of height over stock - will also allow you to fit the 15 inch Forester wheels. 98 Forester is a direct swap into a 95 Legacy, no modifications needed, but you will need to get it aligned when done Stock 90 on the left - 95 w/Forester struts on the right, still on the 14 inch wheels - 95 was the same height before the swap... 15 inch 98 Forester alloys that were painted & mounted with 205/65R15 rubber...
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it was $250 (including $40 core charge) for the reman unit - I cant imagine how much they would want for a New one! the replacment does have a smear of green on it! LOL
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the axles that are on the 06 in our driveway look nothing like those shown in that link, Fairtax - and the cups are not green on either of them, nor on the replacement one. He drove an hour to the nearest Subaru dealer to get the replacment axle because of the known failure issues with aftermarket axles. This is what he came home with... The box the replacment came in... The wheel end... and the tranny end... Both axles in the car right now look pretty much just like the replacement - the boot clamps are slightly different, but that is the only difference I can see.
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doesnt have any torn boots... there is a loose boot clamp on the right one - the small inner clamp - was letting grease escape...
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dirty, gummy, IAC /throttle body Bad plugs Bad wires Possible timing is off a tooth or two. there are a multitude of things that can cause bad idle - none are overly difficult, or expensive, to fix - just a little time consuming. Would start with a complete "tuneup" - Basic NGK plugs, NGK wires, air & fuel filters and see where that gets you.
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What do you mean by "the housings are junk"? if they are yellowed/cloudy looking - that is an easy fix. cost around $20 or less. if the insides are bad, then yeah, replacement would be a worthwhile project.
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if it is wobbling, it needs replacing asap before even more damage occurs and you end up replacing other parts as well - ie: more $$$ and that isnt even considering the safety aspect of it...
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http://partsgeek.com is where I got mine - much better pricing than anyone else for the KYBs If you need springs, tophats, or other related components, try http://parksubaruoemparts.com another reliable source for parts is http://rockauto.com I went all brand new Forester suspension on my 95 Legacy L - struts, springs, tophats - the whole works and love it! Since you have no maintenance history on the car, I would suggest a full timing service as well. Not as critical on the 95 as it would be on 97 & up, but still a worthwhile endeavor for reliability. and find out what the codes are for the CEL, and address whatever they might be.
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they DIY would be for the return line only - low pressure... high pressure side should be the right type of hose with proper high pressure connections
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you dont mention what year yours is, but SubaruGenuineParts.com lists a hose for the SVX as being "from 6/92" - I selected 94 in the search... You may want to call and verify before ordering first... https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html edit: ok - so that just takes you to the main catalog page, click on "more" just under Impreza, then select SVX, and go from there...
