heartless
-
Posts
4647 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
90
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by heartless
-
ok, so here you say it is a 2007, in another thread you said 1997...which is it? regardless of which, most of us will do a complete front service when doing timing belts - especially on one with an interference motor (which both '97 & '07 are) Complete service includes: cam and crank seals, all idler pulleys, timing belt, waterpump & thermostat, and reseal of oil pump. depending on mileage, might want to add the tensioner in there as well as new radiator hoses. -
had a rear side window (cargo area) done on my old GL wagon once - Auto Glass Specialists did the work - $50 to take out the good glass from a parts car, $50 to install in the GL with the busted glass - total cost $100 plus taxes - and they came to me. This was about 10 years ago, however, so cost may have gone up - doesnt hurt to call around and ask
-
depending on ambient temperature, the idle will jump up fairly high at first start - 1500 rpm or so. My 95 will jump to 2000 for a second or so, then settle to around 1500 and gradually drop down as it warms up. normal warm idle should be around 700 rpm or so.
-
i also have a 95 Lego L with bad seats - I can totally relate to Roosters comment about "buckboards" LOL going to be swapping in the seats from my old 90 Lego LS wagon - higher end car for its day, nicer seats - just havent had a chance to do it yet - weather has been kind of unpredictable here.
-
on the paint color - why not go with the standard Cranberry? close to original color... or Autumn Haze, or Sunset Red... but I am a sucker for the red colors... 2 out of the last 3 have been reds - Rio Red & Mica Ruby
-
While this might suggest there is no manual transmission - it does not say that a manual isnt an option....only time will tell I guess...
-
I am hoping at least 300K out of this one! LOL my 90 has between 265-270k on it - still runs great, but rust has taken over and there are other issues starting...
-
it has been done - several times. I saw one not too long ago where they took the exact same car in twice - once with a woman driving, once with a guy - got two very different diagnoses... to the OP - if your tires dont match - brand/size/wear - all the way around, you are asking for more troubles. If they are wearing funny, you need to find out why they are wearing funny. what kind of wear is showing up? inner edge? outer edge? feathering/chopping? the kind of wear will often point you to what the problem is. tie rod ends, ball joints, worn out struts, & misalignment can all cause odd wear patterns.
-
as already mentioned - torque converter locking/unlocking. took me a while to get used to it when I got into a 4EAT car after having a 5 spd for so many years... especially noticeable between 3 and 4, like there is an extra shift...
-
Not necessarily - depends on where it breaks at...if it breaks close to the seat, you may not notice it until doing a good visual inspection. My 95 had a broken spring when I got it and I had no idea till the wheels came off for strut replacement - the struts were completely shot as well... replacing the struts isnt that hard to do - altho when doing the rears it is nice to have a second pair of hands around to put the upper mount nuts on, and the fronts do affect alignment - but marking the cam bolt so you can get it back in the same position gets you pretty darn close.
-
This for sure - never go around in a circle - always a star shaped pattern to ensure proper seating. maybe this will help...
-
you would get a better response to this inquiry in the older gen section - Loyale is considered "old Gen" http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forum/4-old-gen-80s-gldlxtloyales/
-
if it is just a crack, i wouldnt worry too much about it. if there is a chunck missing you could post a wanted ad for the piece you need and get it fairly cheap - or check local junkyards... there are those that run the EJ22's without any covers at all - not sure on the EJ25's tho...
-
We have an Actron scanner that works just fine - not a "plus" model, but that should also work fine.
-
That is always an option as well - up to the individual doing the work, i guess. I find it easier to just cut that little bit completely out. Have done it that way on several different cars with no problems. the first was my 89 GL wagon that I drove for 8 yrs, then the 90 Legacy LS wagon - 7 years, the other half's 90 L sedan, and now my 95 wagon with Forester struts... either way, it accomplishes the same thing - you dont have to open the brake lines. one thing that should be noted tho - for the rears especially - the strut needs to be completey unbolted and loose so that it can be turned enough to get the bolt cutter on that bracket...front only needs the bottom loose, it will turn at the top
-
did the 98 Forester struts on my 95 Legacy - direct swap and bolt in - no need for drilling anything...and I love the added height. to avoid having to open the brake lines, you will need to cut a small section out of the bracket that holds the line (do this in the flat area - not on the angled part) - a pair of bolt cutters work nicely, then simply file the sharp edges/corners smooth. I have done this multiple times with no problems. Remove the clip that holds the brake line to bracket, move the line so that you have a little extra space to work with - cut out about a half inch or so of the bracket - just enough that you can fit the line thru it and file off any sharpness ... do the same thing on the ones going into the car for ease of installation. Once you set the brake line back in place and install the retaining clip you cant hardly tell they have been cut.
-
Any time a wheel is off the car - for any reason - the lug nuts should be retorqued after 50-100 miles - period - regardless of wheel type (alloy or steel). Failing to at least check the lug nuts after a wheel has been off is asking for trouble. Repeated loosening does need to be investigated further (bad rotors, etc) there has to be a reason for them loosening multiple times after being retorqued.
-
i second fairtax's comment about rechecking the timing - the tensioner may be bad and is allowing it to jump time quite easily...
-
strut manufacturers say every 50,000 miles - but they are in the business of making money... if the car is bouncy going over bumps, then yeah, you should probably think about replacing them. worn out struts dont keep the tire in constant contact with the road surface like they are supposed to do, making it easier for you to lose control of the vehicle. a quick testing method - give each corner of the car a good shove downward - put your weight into it - it should come up, go down a little, then center & stop - if it bounces more than that, they are worn out. oh, and check your springs out as well, make sure none are broken.
-
your 95 impreza does not need the conditioner - none of the 90's EJ22 family does. your 95 should easily get another 100,000 with routine maintenance. I have a 95 Legacy wagon with the EJ22 that has a little over 211,000 right now and going strong.
-
the 90 EJ22 is actually a very robust motor. on the rear leak - more than likely the oil separator plate that is the problem, not the rear main, altho if it has been sitting anything is possible. look at the seam between motor and bell housing on passenger side, if it is oily & damp looking, then yes, you have a leak back there. Only way to fix that one is to separate engine and tranny...lucky for you the 90 has the cast alloy plate, it just needs to be resealed. it would drip out at the bottom of the bellhousing/engine seam - and yes, it can be the cause of massive leaking... there is also a cam endcap on the back of the passenger side head that is known to leak - round cap with 2 triangular screw tabs - there is an o-ring inside to seal it that probably needs changing. Just because you have milky oiliness inside the timing covers does NOT mean headgaskets - moisture can get inside the timing covers and mix with oil that has leaked from the cam & crank seals - especially if it has been sitting - what does the engine oil look like? is it milky at all? have you done an oil change on it? What does the coolant look like? these are better indicators of headgasket failure than milky oil inside the timing covers. The smoking can be from stuck rings from it sitting so long, there are ways of trying to free them up without pulling it apart. Do a search for more info.
-
try here - might have to do a little digging - the files arent labeled all that great, but they are free... http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/
-
yup. just waiting for better weather (got cold & damp up here again) to do the swap. Looking forward to a more comfortable seat again - the 95 L seats are pretty much shot - leg bolsters all broken down, cushion all flattened out - its like sitting on a piece of plywood.
-
seats should be a go as long as you swap the buckle end of the seatbelt - I plan on doing kind of the opposite - pulling the nicer seats out of my rusty 90 LS wagon and putting them into my 95 L wagon...was told to swap out the buckle end so that everything works properly - there are minor differences in the buckles that could cause problems if they dont match. if the outback struts/springs are in good condition, grab them (the whole assemblies) - cheap lift! just remember what year/model they came from when it comes time to replace the actual struts. I did it with Forester struts on my 95 & am loving it!
-
short answer - no. even tho it is technically "awd", the normal power split is biased to the front wheels. There is a lot more to it than this, but I will leave that for others to explain if they care to..
