Phil Hyde

I decided to re-verify my MAF harness voltages. It's getting 12V on the red wire, but the white is reading 5.3 mV (key on/eng off). Specs I've read are 100-500 mV. I am thinking this is not bueno. Where is the other end of that white wire?

On other cars I have replaced conventional rubber vacuum hoses with silicon - the main reason being high heat (around a turbo). That was small I/D stuff, however.

While inspecting the PCV valve on my 1991 Loyale, I cracked the (brittle) hose that connects. Part number seems to be 807415162. Any suggestions for a replacement, or substitute?

Does that harness go all the way inside the passenger compartment?

Been working on other projects and finally got to focus some time on the Loyale. I'm getting code 23 flashing. So would I suspect either 2 bad MAF sensors, or perhaps faulty wiring? So

Thanks! Very helpful.

Hi everyone, Trying to check my vehicle for stored CEL codes. From my recent troubleshooting, the CEL has been illuminated when the car isn't starting properly. Based on my understanding, the wires are in the engine bay, and I need to connect the white connector to read codes. The green connector is a "test" connector. Right so far? When I connect this white connector and turn the key on, all I get is a flashing CEL light. Does that mean there are no stored codes?

It was $50 shipped so I think I'll hang onto it. Apparently a supply of extra parts is a good thing with these cars. I've been a little pressed for time this week, but I plan on checking the codes this weekend.

Well... This one is a used OEM from eBay. Sold as "functional". So I am not sure I proved anything. Either I have two bad ones... or it's not the problem. Leaning toward the latter.

I am aware of the troubleshooting that needs to occur and I do appreciate the suggestions. I had already purchased a (used) MAF and there was certainly no harm in checking to see if it fixed anything. I honestly didn't expect it to.

UPDATE: Replacement MAF did not produce a different result.

I have one on order. The funny thing about the unplugged MAF behavior is that you'd think running in this manner would rule out a fuel pressure issue.

Yes, it restarts every time.

It starts, goes up to around 2K, then dies - all in a matter of seconds. No hunting. you have to feather the throttle to keep it running. I will check the grounds - thanks for that.

It is next on my list. Given the combination of behaviors, I was going for big fish / low hanging fruit first. Thanks for the suggestions.

I see your point, but does it mean it would cause a car not to idle cold? I'm just trying to establish a baseline.

UPDATE: After removing the TPS, I was able to confirm that it reads "closed" (A-B continuity) in the throttle closed position. A-B stop contacting at some small angle of rotation, which I assume needs to be adjusted to correspond to the feeler gauge specifications. I re-installed the sensor and rotated so that A-B have continuity when the throttle is in the closed position. Starting the engine produces the same result as before. Idles up somewhere around 2K then dies. Feathering the throttle will keep it running. At this point I feel pretty confident that the engine should at least idle. CTS reading checks out for cold start. TPS is reading closed which should be good for idle. Am I missing something?

To circle back to my first question - I was able to get the sensor off by removing the A/C compressor (which is kind of a bear of a task).

Hello Friend - You may want to read my troubleshooting saga in my other thread (mentioned below). I am checking/replacing it because it is failing the tests which are recommended in the factory service manual. Do you suggest otherwise? I don't know you came to the conclusion you did, but it is most certainly not my desire or intention to replace factory with aftermarket - unless there is no other option. So far as I can tell, there is not another option other than waiting indefinitely. I hope this clears up your questions. Phil

Related question, is this a suitable replacement TPS? It's quite literally all I can find.

I did do the test procedure. My sensor is failing the first test, which is continuity between A-B when closed or part throttle. I was not able to adjust the sensor CCW, so I am going with the theory that the sensor is faulty.

I can't figure out how to completely remove the TPS. I made another post in this forum about it.

OK experts, what is the secret to removing and replacing the TPS on an EA82 SPFI engine? As far as I can tell, either the throttle body must come loose, or the AC compressor has to come out.

A friend helped me source the factory service manual which has been a great source of information. Getting back to my original question for a minute - I performed the tests below and mine fails step 1. meaning, it is not sending a closed signal to the computer. Visual inspection suggests that the TPS is at its maximum CCW rotation, so I cannot adjust it. Thoughts?