pinnhedd
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Posts posted by pinnhedd
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How many miles, which engine, which transmission, and which trim level?
What's the maintenance history?
These are the key elements in determining the price. Edmunds.com, KBB.com, and NADA.com will also give you ballpark ideas, but right now their prices seem to be over inflated on everything.
Mileage is 174048, 2.5 DOHC, manual trans, and it's the Sport version.
Maintence history: oil changes every 3k, new front and rear brakes (pads and rotors) - not even a year old, new clutch, new 3 season michelin tires, and new snow tires, 4 new struts, knock sensor, new o2 sensors. I replaced a bunch of stuff mostly because I was not sure of some of those things ever being replaced. Also previous owner had brake master cylinder, and starter replaced due to recalls.
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I live in Southern NH and was wondering how much I should ask for my 98 Forester. I have repair and maintenence history of everything I have done to it, and also a couple of things that the previous owner has had replaced from the dealership. It is in great condition but has high miles. Just wondering if anyone had any ideas for a starting price for this area, I want to purchase something newer. Thanks.
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I have a '98 Forester.
Temp gauge does not go more than in the middle...once it's all heated up it stays in the same spot. Has not overheated since I have owned it. Only other info I got was from Mitchell on Demand at work...basically saying that it could even be caused by parking next to another vehicle while at idle...strange.
Hello, P0xxx is a generic ODBII code. At least for '00obw (closest service manual i have listing that code) that meansA/T DTC P0483 - COOLING FAN FUNCTION PROBLEM
DTC DETECTING CONDITION: Two consecutive driving cycles with fault
TROUBLE SYMPTOM: Occurrence of noise; Overheating
Do the cooling fans seem to turn on at all? Do the funs cycle on and off if th A/C is on? Does the temp gauge seem to get any higher than the middle or so?
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Cooling Fan Rationality Check Malfunction
What does this mean? I have tried to search online for it...Does anyone have any ideas for me? I can't find any info on it really.
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I had the same issue with my Forester the beginning of this year. I ended up having to replace the Master.
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I'm also doing my t belt and water pump. i'm going to put it in at work though so hopefully it will work out good.
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yeah I figured as much anyway. I found a timing belt component kit for like $120, and with parts and labor I am looking at about $500, then I get a discount if I get it done at work, so it is not that bad. Although the other car, which is a gr. cherokee just blew the water pump tonight. I have no luck with vehicles.
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Well, one of my mechanics at the shop took a look at it when I brought it in for an oil change. He knows about the hg issues because I told him from what I have heard about anyway. You can actually see where it is leaking from. I just want to make sure I will be replacing everything that needs to be replaced. I am not sure if the timing has ever been done on this car to begin with, no info what so ever when I purchased it.
are you sure the water pump is leaking and it's not something else? 98 2.5's have head gasket issues. just checking, hate to see all that work and $ not fix your problem.might want to order in new pulleys too and replace the ones that are noisey and dont' feel "like new". probably the sprocketed one by the oil pump, they seem to be the first to start making noise. being an interference engine and the fact that yo'ure not goign to be in there again for 100,000 miles you want to make sure all your pulley bearings are good. once the bearings seize in a pulley your 100,000 mile timing belt will slide over it and last about 1,000 miles. they are expensive so an alternative to replacing them all is buying them all and returning the ones you don't need.
you can also replace the bearings if you have access to a press and buy the bearings.
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Well the thing is, yeah I work at Pep Boys, but I can order things through the dealer and get a better price then if I went direct to the dealer, because they are our one of our vendors. I don't know. It's not a cheap job, but it's not too expensive and I shouldn't complain, I have over 153k miles on it so far.
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Well, I know I have to do the water pump, it is leaking bad, so I might as well do the timing because I bought my car used and I am not even sure if it has ever been done. So timing belt, water pump, thermostat, gasket...what else should I do?
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yeah, the 6th number on the VIN is a 6, I just got confused because someone also said it was the 8th number over.
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I work at Pep Boys and was going to order parts through them because I get a pretty decent discount and they are pretty good parts. When I look it up in the computer it asks 'engine code 6- yes or no' I am assuming they meant a # from the VIN...that is what one of the techs told me, but I am not sure and wanted to get some feedback from others.
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I need to do the timing belt, and replace my water pump and I need to order parts from work like always. Everything has to be ordered for my car. BTW it is a 98 Forester. SO anyway, I am lookin gup parts and am wondering when they ask for engine code, is it the 6th number over in the VIN, or the 8th, or what? If anyone knows please tell me. thx
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So, one day my car starts running funny, btw I have a '98 Forester. I smell coolant, so I check, there was none in my car. Where did it go though? no puddles anywhere...I go to work and have them pull it in the shop and do all kinds of pressure tests and leak diags and so on. no problemes. they put coolant in it, I drive an hour and a half to visit my mother, the next day I check my coolant level it was down a little, so I add some. Then its fine, and has been since that happened 2 weeks ago. Then 6 days ago, I go to leave work and I start my car, check engine light comes on, and it stalls so i pull it in the shop at work and put the computer on it and it says air flow low. needless to say I had to replace the air flow sensor. Lucky me to find a junkyard one for $50 that will last me a while. A new one goes for like $400 ouch. Just thought I would share my strange car. I love it, but it gives me nothing but problems. I have kept track of repairs and regular maintence since I purchased it last May, and its over $2k.
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call Pep Boys in Salem, NH 603-890-0555
thanks for the kind words Oskar.I suppose I should consider myself lucky in that we got 113,000 miles before the HG went. I did go ahead and give Manchester Subaru a call this afternoon and was given a ballpark of $1600 for the HG repair. But was then quoted another $600 to replace the separator plate which is about to go if it hasn't already. Would it be reasonable to expect that if the engine were removed to replace the sep plate, that the cost for the HG repair would be significantly reduced - easier access and all that?
One of my coworkers gave me tha name of a shop in Lowell, MA and will give them a call tomorrow. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
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If you want to give me your year and model I can look up prices at work. I work at a Pep Boys in the area. Let me know.
or call Pep Boys at 603-890-0555 if you want, you can ask for me -Kristen
thanks for the kind words Oskar.I suppose I should consider myself lucky in that we got 113,000 miles before the HG went. I did go ahead and give Manchester Subaru a call this afternoon and was given a ballpark of $1600 for the HG repair. But was then quoted another $600 to replace the separator plate which is about to go if it hasn't already. Would it be reasonable to expect that if the engine were removed to replace the sep plate, that the cost for the HG repair would be significantly reduced - easier access and all that?
One of my coworkers gave me tha name of a shop in Lowell, MA and will give them a call tomorrow. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
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yeah, I own a 98 Forester with the 2.5 and it has over 150k, no HG problems so far..
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I have 150k, bought my 98 Forester used, and have absolutely no idea if the timing has been done or not...
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Howdy... I've posted my Legacy Purge valve solenoid problem, and thanks to everyone who answered... I'll be swapping it soon....
Now... on to Legacy #2... 1990 Wagon....
CEL check says Oxygen sensor.... though the check eng. light does not come on constantly. Doing the eng. running check with the green connector gives no fault.... although, I might wait and try it when the problem (and light) seem to be occuring.
Here's what it does: Runs good when cold... no real problems. Then, as the car warms, there seems to develop a miss that is almost unnoticable until the car is under a load, as when pulling a steep hill. Then the miss becomes VERY noticable, lurching and hesitating..... As long as you don't drive agressivley, and stay off the mountain, you might not notice the miss.... it's so minor it feels like you're turning the ac on and off, robbing just a little juice from the motor. Then you go to pass a truck on a hill and forget it. Sputter city. Normally, the CEL will then come on a few seconds or a minute later, and stay on for a few miles.
So.... is this the O2 sensor causing a problem? Is it hard to change?
As always, help from the gurus on this site is greatly appreciated! You guys are truly the best!
--Mike
Listen to this... Since last August, the check engine light on my car had been going on and off every other day, sometimes every other week. I work at a store that has a shop and I had him look at it. He had me try everything like dry gas and all that crap, nothing worked. I put in new plugs, wires, and ign coil because we thought that because the computer also showed a cylinder misfire, that might be it...wasn't. It wouldn't do it every time I drove, but mostly when it got real warmed up, and it would hesitaet, then I would floor it, and it would finally catch up with itself. It had only been doing the hesitation thing for about a month or so, then we finally changed the O2 Sensor, because the light came on and wouldn't go off. My car drives beautiful now...I have a Forester, and my mechanic changed it in like 10 minutes.
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Well, tonight was the night. I hit 250,000 miles on my way home from work in my '95 Legacy wagon. I bought it with 175,000 miles about 2 1/2 years ago. Best $2300 I every spent. In that time I've spent almost squat on actual repairs. Shifter bushings, a wheel bearing, tranny mounting bolts, that's about it. Otherwise, just maintenance - oil, filters, brakes, some seals and a water pump and pullys (just to be safe) while doing a timing belt, wiper blades . . . Hell, I'm on the same Michelin X-1 tires that came with it.
300,000 coming in 2007!
Adam
That's freaken awesome. I hope my car makes it that long. I bought it last May for $3138, had 130k on it, now has 149k and I have put $2k into it. its a 98 Forester...but I love it. Looking forward to seeing your car make it to the 300k
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I thought it was a bad rotor and was prepared to change the rotors when replacing the brake pads but if you are right, you saved me $140. The car doesn't seem to pull to one side or another. Are there 2 plungers on each caliper and if so are you saying one of these is "sticking"? Not clear yet.
OK so how do I unstick this "slide"? Are you referring to the plungers in the caliper? If so, how do I make them not "stick"?
yeah, there are 2 slides per caliper, and yeah its quite possible that its sticking. It is also probably the bottom one. Pull both slides, and clean them off, clean the slide hole with a rag, re-grease it and make sure that it slides freely. It happened to my car, and I thought it might be the rotors, but I saw that you mentioned that it only happens at faster speeds. if it was the rotor, I assume it would happen at all speeds.
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any foreign autoparts store can get it for you if they dont already have it in stock. I got mine for like $70.
Thank you for the quick reply.I have 154K on my car.
I've been look on the web for a Knock sensor but having little luck.
Do you have any sugguestions. Also, about how much should the part cost?
Thanks again!!
TY
Wish to sell my 98 Forester
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
I have some time to sell it. I don't want to sell it for nothing. I see a few of them in this area, but they seem to sell better in northern NH so I might try to sell it around there.