Rupart

orig for 82 had 21 spline, maybe you have a later trans, 24 is like ea 82 trans, you can use a disc for say 88 gl sedan/ wagon. if you are changing the pressure plate too, make sure it matches the one you remove, the orig 82 is not the same as the later sedan &wagon, both of what you have, may be that later style, or maybe you have a mix of stuff, it was easy to get a mixup cause the gen2 brat went to 89, and the gen3 cars started in 85, and a lot of things will swap. aftermarket got things confused!! both early and later 4wd clutch is 225mm dia. 2wd is! 200 mm. early 21 spline, later 24 spline, flywheels are different from each other, and pressure plates are different from each other, BUT, they will actually bolt up, just not be correct. also the T/O bearing and forks are different from each other, and different from 2wd forks. it was all very confusing.

use 85-90 , 2 or 4 dr sedan 2wd,,, wagon 2wd will fit but might be stronger springs. happy hunting,, oh , look on facebook too, there is another old subie site for xt&xt6 you can join.

hi, i have some various fuel filler hose parts saved from different 80's subarus,, what car are you needing this hose for, year & model?

hi, i have a pairs of used ones, $50. pair delivered to you priority mail. OOPS! sorry i didn't realize you are in Finland, i have them but $40. + ? shipping to you.

hi, the exhaust pipes on the orig cars have an inner pipe inside the outer pipe,, it is actually 2 layers. the inner pipe gets rusted and eventually breaks allowing it to sag and rattle against the inside of the outer pipe. i've seen this on almost all of my old subarus (80's). best way to check is get under and just bang around on the pipes , rubber mallet is good , even just by hand with base of your fist. check all along front to rear , muffler too.

hi, i have these corners, i'm out of town right now, will try contact you here when return, wk-10 days? they are the chrome/ black edge, underside tabs good, finish nice, thanks. 4- pc, ll, lr, ul, ur, proper.

hi, i have some suspect that you have the timing a couple degrees fast,, if anything more than this gives hard pinging, it is very close to too much advance, especially using the 98 fuel. is that like premium here in us? anyway, at cruise, the vac advance can and does advance the timing a bit, any acceleration from that point will slightly retard the timing some, heavy acceleration will fully retard the timing to the extent of total movement of the timing plate in the distributor. i have had the same symptom on some of my vehicles, usually feels like a slight surging feel at cruise on level road. mark the dist at its present setting,, then retard it 2-4 degrees, test drive some to see if the surging sensation is still there, if yes then no harm and no cost to move it back. also check for play in the dist shaft as someone mentioned, a little is more than it should be, is this a points type or electronic pickup type?

hi, i am looking in a 1984 oem parts book, # is 81276 4110 ,, it may have been superceded but that was the # back then. no help to get them but i know they come in some gasket kits.

hi, yes it's ok to run the wheel like your pic shows. on getting the other side off, squirt some pb penetrant in the pin hole so it can soak into the splines, sometimes they can be Very difficult. since the pin is out and the joint needs rebuilt you might try and tap on the edge of the bell end of the joint ( as if trying to knock it on instead of off) this is only to get it to move a bit, then more penetrant and taping on it in the off direction. don't hammer real hard on things , you could damage the wheel bearing , and the cv joint bearings & races ,, or both! and the rear axles are hard to come by. good luck on it, it's just rusty splines .

hi, you can run the loyale in 2wd with both rear axle assemblies removed. yes, drive out the pins on both ends, and they should slip off the diff splines and the wheel drive splines,,, if you let the diff down. ( i take the moustache bar loose at the ends, it makes a good handle to move the diff too). the nose bushing on the diff needs to disconnect too,, i don't think it necessary to take the shocks off. obviously need to have the drive shaft back in place when finished if you took the rear flange off the diff to get enough movement to get the axles out.

hi, just to start, no the loyale axles are not the same as brat, the end joints are not either. i am not certain the rear Assemblies for brat are the same as my 84 gl wagon but i think they are. i have the 84 and also an 88 rx the rear axles do not swap. the 84 has doj on both ends of each axle,, the joints are alike,, but are not the same as the doj on the 88 axle,, the 84 doj is shorter ( the cup is not as deep as the 88 doj.. the 88 assembly has a doj on inner end and a fixed cv joint at the outside end,, these rx are same as loyale.. the loyale axles are too long to fit on the 84,, however the splines are the same on both ends of the joints of both vehicles.. i can't tell you anything about where to get remans,, but if your's are not clacking or knocking , get some boot kits and regrease, and reboot them.. the outside joint on the loyale type axle is not meant to be removed,, they can be hammered off but i would not, just flush it out and regrease then boot,, this must be done before you reassemble the inner joint because you have to slide the boot all the way down the shaft and cannot be done with the inside joint in place. my 84 has doj's on both ends, these are meant to be disassembled and can be done 1 or both , either end first. i suggest both since it is a job taking them off the car. i did have to disconnect the rear diff so it could be moved some,, put 1 axle back in , then push the diff over to collapse the joints, then install the other side,, then rebolt the diff in place. hope this helps some. oh , just in case you did not know, the retainer pin hole in the joints and the axles will only align in 1 place,,, it looks like it aligns from either of 2 spots, don't be fooled!! one will let you start the pin but will not go all the way through,, pull it back off , turn it 180 and reinstall it, the pin goes all the way through.

hi, these would have come from a 4dr or a wagon.

hi, i see in your pic that you have a p/s pulley that has only 1 belt position, you going to need the 2 belt version, close look at the two pics you posted seem to look like the single pulley is set back and the 2 belt one is set forward allowing the second belt room to fit. i will try to post another pic showing the idler pulley and bracket that is also on the rear(2nd) belt, if your setup does not have this you gonna need it. well my pic was too big and i am not allowed to post it. this idler is also an adjuster setup for the rear belt so check it out. it's all down under the compressor.

i have a set of corners in great condition, chrome/black, all 4 proper positions. 35 & free ship

oops, i forgot to say, i dont know if a manual trans will mount to the auto trans bell housing on your engine. the rear engine cover is also a bell housing/adapter that the trans mounts to. i do know that the ea82 manual trans will bolt up to an ea81 engine that had a manual trans with it, so if you locate a 4x4 ea81 parts source you might want to get the rear engine cover/bell housing also.. some other member may know if the manual trans will mate to your auto cover/adapter. the ea82 eng adapter will not work on your engine since it is different. actually the rear of the engines are different, ea81is open,, ea82 is closed block.