95LEGOBW

Source of slowness found: The car had thick rubber OEM floormats. The driver's side mat had slid forward under the gas pedal, restricting the pedal's movement. Fixed mat, and attached it to the seat posts to prevent further problems. Now, the gas pedal goes full travel, and the automatic transmission can be made to downshift when needed. Acceleration restored! It's still a slow car, but it's no longer unsafely slow. Just wanted to close this loop. Thanks for all the help, folks.

My mistake, it was correct in the title, but not in the text. It's the stock, original 2.2. Must have had displacment envy and typed 2.5 by mistake.

Sorry, engine was correct in title, incorrect in the message. It is the stock original 2.2 engine.

Tires are 205/55/16, It's a Plus 1 rim size, but tires are same diameter as stock. Plugs & wires have about 10K on them. Air filter is clean.

I was getting the infamous P0325 Knock Sensor code on my 95 2.2 (correction) Legacy Wagon with 199K miles on it. Thanks to FairTax's :banana:post, I decided to tackle this fix. I removed the old sensor, cleaned up the surfaces, then re-installed. Got the code again immediately. (I had disconnected the battery for 10 minutes, in order to clear old codes.) The old sensor had no cracks. I measured its resistance and got 550 ohms. Wiggling around the wire and connector, I found no loss of continuity. In my hands, it didn't seem to be a bad sensor. When installing it, I had even used a torque wrench to tighten it to the lower end of the torque range. Still, I was getting the code. So, I bought a new Knock Sensor online for $13, shipped. (A good price, by the way. NAPA wanted about $50, and Subaru wanted even more.) I measured the new sensor's resistance and got the same reading as the old sensor. I installed the new one, cleared the codes, then went for a long drive. No CEL! The car still seems underpowered, though. On freeway on-ramps, it must be floored to get up to speed in time, and it's best to turn off the AC. I was hoping the new knock sensor would give some power back, but no luck. This car is operating near sea-level -the car is so underpowered that it would be dangerous at higher elevations. I should have mentioned this, too: It's an automatic. Also, we have to run the 10% alchohol blend fuel here, so there's less energy/gallon than real gasoline, but that's all we've had here for years. I run "regular" octane in the Subie.

I cleaned the MAF sensor on my 95 LEGOBW with CRC MAF spray. The sensor looked fine before and after the cleaning. The car wasn't running poorly, but I had the spray, and it was easy to do. At the same time, I pulled off the PCV valve and cleaned it out. It appeared to be fine, clicking back and forth like it's supposed to. Lastly, I sprayed some of the CRC MAF sensor cleaner in the throttle body, while I had the air inlet pipe off. Buttoned it all back up and it ran fine. Next day, get a Check Engine Light (CEL) for a P0325 code, for the Knock Sensor. I had the code cleared, but it came back in about 20 miles of highway driving. The car runs fine, just slow, as usual. So, what should I check? I wasn't getting the P0325 code before I did the cleaning, so I don't think the Knock Sensor is bad. Thanks, y'all.

:headbang:Just wanted to let y'all know that the relays plus HD wiring kit I purchased from Daneil Stern Lighting is the Cat's Pajamas for improving front lighting on my 95 Leg OBW. They throw a lot more light than before the change. The stock headlight wires are tiny thin things, and lose a lot of voltage before getting to the bulbs. I think my lights are brighter now, with stock bulbs, than they were before, with "+50" bulbs. Of course, I keep the plastic lenses polished out, naturally. If you're disappointed in output from your stock Subie headlights, I recommend improving the wiring and adding appropriate relays. Merry Christmas & Happy New Year to my fellow Subie-philes!

It was, indeed, there behind the seats. What was confusing were the tubes & wires accessible UNDER the seat, where there was no access panel. Thanks to you folks, we kept looking, and found it, right where you said.

The fuel pump on my 95 Outback Legacy Wagon has died. The fuel pump is inside the gas tank. There does not appear to be an access panel behind the back seat. Am I missing something? It sure would be great to not have to drain the tank and drop it. I've checked the online places that show pictures of an access panel under the carpet, but I don't see that on my car. Is that possible? Thanks.

A quick email to Daniel Stern solved it. I had misunderstood the polarity at the bulbs due the ground-switching nature of Subaru's headlight wiring.

Thanks for all the replies to my original post, folks. I know about buffing the haze off the headlights. That's good advice, but not what I am asking here. I am interested in getting full voltage to the headlights, and the stock skinny wiring and crappo connectors are the limiting factor. I am using a relay kit with ceramic connectors purchased from Daniel Stern Lighting, installed with heavy duty wiring. I have installed it as instructed, but not getting the results I expect. Low beams are dim, then when I switch to hi-beam, the lights won't go back to low beam. I am specifically interested in hearing from someone who has succesfully upgraded the headlight wiring, using relays, on a '95 or so Legacy. If you don't have specific knowledge on this, please hold off on your replies. I know some posters have done this wiring mod, so let me hear about how you wired your rig! Thanks, I'll really appreciate it.

I'm working on getting better output from my headlights on my 95 Legacy and the first step is to run some heavier wire to the headlights, and use relays to switch the power through the wires. I have it all wired up in what I think is the right way, but I'm getting some weird results. I have two specific questions: 1) Has Subaru done something weird with the factory wiring that would make a normal relay set up have problems? 2) Has anyone done this set up with a similar age Legacy, and how did you do it? Thanks in advance!

So, summarizing what I am reading here, if I get a 2.5, I should expect it to have HG problems eventually, and I should adjust my price accordingly. Also, an option is to look for one that has already had the HGs done. That raises a couple new questions: - How often is the HG a one-time fix? - If not a one-time fix, how long until it has to be done again?

Well, the time has come, and I need to add a car to the fleet so my wonderful teenage daughter has something to drive. I'd like to go with Subaru, since they're made so well, and I have had great luck with a 95 Outback I bought with 170K on it, several years ago. Here's the scoop. I need to spend less than <$5K. I would like something newer and more powerful than my '95 Outback (which has the 2.2). It seems like the models with the 2.5 engines are to be avoided. Is that correct, should I avoid all 2.5 models? Thanks for your advice!

Yes, I removed the two bolts, but the fixture would not come forward out of the bumper because the wire was too short. Also, there was not enough room around the fixture to allow me to reach in and unplug it. So, it came out the bottom, after remove a belly-pan thing.