msteel

Well, here are mine. Better resolution available if needed.

GD can be abrasive (and he knows it:lol:), but he is usually right. Look for the solenoid he described. It is likely bad, or else the wiring to it is bad. If the solenoid is bad, here are your options: * Buy new Subaru solenoid - about $90 at the dealer. * Buy new non-subaru solenoid - may be difficult to find a cheap one that will swap easily * Get one from a junkyard. This is difficult in my area since there aren't many old gen subes around here, and most have not rusted enough to be in yards. I once bought an entire Loyale in an other state to get the two solenoids it had, for less than the dealer price for 2 solenoids (I then used and/or sold other parts from it). * Fake out the ECU using a resistor. The engine will perform acceptably without the purge solenoid. While waiting to get to my parts car I bypassed the solenoid and the car did fine for at least 1000 miles.

The area is west of Highway 178 and north of Highway 11. The SC DNR site is here: http://www.dnr.sc.gov/managed/wild/jocassee/index.htm But you have to wade through a bit if stuff to find out the specifics. A more useful writeup of the route we took is here: http://www.southcarolinawildlife.com/pubs/septoct2006/jumpoffrock.html Google maps has also been interesting to look at, and topozone.com (although at least the free maps are woefully out of date)

Saturday I got to take my first drive into the Jocassee Gorges natural area. This is a large tract of land in NE South Carolina, and is home to a number of unique plant species....and miles of dirt and gravel roads. Most of these roads are closed seasonally to reduce impact on the terrain and the wildlife. So, now that they're open for the fall, it was a great opportunity to go on an adventure with my young son. The roads were really in pretty good shape. There was no need for 4wd (although I put her in 4 a couple of marginal places because I wanted to), and the ground clearance of my stock height Loyale was sufficient, although I had to be careful a couple of places. The speed limit is set at 15mph on these roads, and most of the time that was a comfortable yet fun speed, especially considering the curves. Here is a nice shot of Jacinta in a deeply hillside along Horsepasture Road. The fall color is not great this year due to the drought we've been having, but there were a few spots that were quite pretty. Here is one of them. Although these are mountain roads (Southeast Mountains, that is), there are not many places with views. But we stopped to enjoy this one. It was a good photo op too. Our destination was Jumping Off Rock, a cliff approximately 100 foot high that overlooks Lake Jocassee. This is about 10 miles in from the paved road, and the view is worth the trip all by itself. Here's a panorama I stitched together from 3 photos We took a different route home, and at one point we had the choice of a bridge, or not a bridge. Somehow the bridge didn't seem to get much traffic . I hope to get back someday soon to explore more of the many roads and enjoy the mountains and woods.

And personally, I think I'd rather Subaru be in the company of Toyota than GM.

It might not be as bad as B/A dropping Subaru parts. I was just there getting parts for my Geo (Toyota) and it appeared that you could get closeout as well as non-closeout on some of those parts too. I interpreted that to mean that one of their suppliers was closing and wouldn't do warranty, but that their other sources were carrrying on normally.

If you want to go new, an alternative to the dealer is rockauto.com. A search there uncovered these: $37.79 STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # RU253 $52.89 SUBARU Part # 72083GA070 $42.79 ACDELCO Part # E1165 From the pictures they look to be the right thing. But I'm not sure what shipping would be. Possibly, armed with part numbers, you could get one of these through your local auto parts store.

They can also leak between the reservoir and the pump. But it's not so easy to drip on the exhaust from there, unless the turbos have the pump located differently from mine.

I've got inboard A/C, and I've found it helps a lot to put the inner belt on one groove at a time. Put it onto the outer pulley first, starting with the power steering pulley, and finishing with the crankshaft. Then hop it onto the inner groove where it belongs, again starting with the PS pulley. But, as always a big enough belt and having the tensioner fully loose is needed as well.

One more tip about these - In my opinion the bead of ceramic "stuff" on the coils helps them last longer. I figure it acts as a heat sink so the coils don't get quite so hot. The last time I replaced mine (with a used one), I put a bead of DAP High Heat Mortar (left over from another project) on the coils that didn't have the original ceramic "stuff" anymore. The High Heat Mortar comes in a tube like caulk, but is designed for repairing firebrick, so when it cures it is quite hard and very heat resistant. So far it has held up better than any other previous replacement.

And, if you don't know who/what CCR is, that would be Colorado Component Rebuilders http://www.ccrengines.com/

Yep, that sounds like something I could even convince my wife was a worthy purchase.

It sounds like maybe you bought this car that I though about getting: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=78565

Thanks. It was one of my all time favorite drives getting there. And, I'd not seen pictures of Bucky before - makes me want to fix Jacinta's rust!

I like this one myself: She's got some rust herself since she was originally a NY state car. And driving on the beach doesn't help rust a lot either.

No, not too bad to do. I did mine a year or so ago. The biggest issues I remember were the undercoating getting all over me, and actually getting the RIGHT tube from the parts store. Make sure it is the right length and the right size fittings. Also, make sure it has the _correct_ metric threads. I borrowed a tubing bender from the auto parts store, but the bend radius was way too big and it was useless. I found that my large Craftsman screwdriver had about the right radius, and with the groove near the end it did well as a bender. You will want to take the old line out and use it as a guide as you bend the new one at a nice work area like a workbench. I discovered my failed brake line at a stoplight near my house. I had just stopped (successfully, thankfully) at a steep downhill going onto a 7-lane undivided road. But when I got to the stoplight, I needed a little help stopping. This help was provided by the midsize pickup in front of me as it gently put a dent the size and shape of a trailer ball into my front bumper. That was the only damage to either vehicle.

Ouch! I payed too much for the ones I bought (from Advance or AutoZone) a while back! But next time (IF there is one) I plan to put new bearings into the old set since I kept them...

I used to live in Provo years ago, in my pre-subaru years.

I once read an article by someone using a subaru engine in an aircraft. They built a circuit that generated a pulse so the ECU would think the VSS was there and OK. If you want to get rid of the code this is an option.

I recently took a 2700 mile trip up north (SC->IN->NY->SC) and was surprised by how few older gen subarus I saw (on the road, anyway). I saw a maroon EA81 wagon in the ditch in northern OH. Sorry I didn't stop to help, but had time costraints. I saw a green EA82 wagon going the other way on the interstate, also in northern OH. As it passed I turned to get a longer look and saw that the driver was also turning to look at my white EA82 wagon. Those were the ONLY pre-legacy Subarus I saw driving the entire trip.

Well, you could do this to a wagon: But is does look like there are drawbacks to it

OK, I'll add my $0.02 * I've always removed the ball joint from the lower control arm, using a pittman arm puller to pop it out (doesn't hurt the boot), and a sturdy rod to lever the control arm down enough to get the stud out of the hole. I've never tried removing the bolt on the other end of the control arm. Sounds like a nice method that I might try next time. * Some axles I've done have come out almost by hand. One came out with the wood block and sledge method, but brought the inner bearing out with it. I think a brass hammer is about the best way if you don't have a suitable puller (which I don't). * The washer method of reinstalling the axle works. But a special tool is much nicer. The one I have is a homemade version of the Subaru tool.

Just got back from a 2700+ mile trip in my '92 Loyale 4WD wagon (SPFI). Mileage was between 30 and 34. We had 2 adults and 2 kids for passengers, and the hatch was loaded up to the windows. Almost all the driving was on the highway at the speed limit, which was mostly 65 or 70mph.

I'm pretty sure that the only GL/Loyale models that used the vacuum solenoids and vacuum actuators are the single range pushbutton models. The solenoids would be by the drivers side strut tower, but won't be there on your car because it dual range. The dual range transmission linkages are totally mechanical, so if it is not going into 4hi/4lo, then you probably have a problem with the linkages being loose or out of adjustment. The lights may go on because the lever is activating the switches, but the linkages aren't doing the right thing at the transmission end. Less likely is thepossibility that there is a problem with the transmission itself.

Sorry, I don't know any part numbers. But the one time I inquired the Subaru dealer wanted around $90 for a new OEM one. I think that's why most people look for them in junkyards, or go without them, or find cheaper ones for other cars.