Steptoe's photos

following ....

I think I still have an EA82T head stashed somewhere that has a broken and corroded bolt stuck in it - inlet manifold bolt - from 2006 !

two scenarios - either the shank of the bolt is fused to the intake manifold or the threads in the head are stuck. With first possibility, can you drill through the side of the intake manifold up high, in order to get some spray lube straw into the corrosion cavity ? I find when fitting shaved heads, I need to enlarge holes in manifold to make up for shaved amount - gives greater cavity, less chance for corrosion. Or tape up bolts in teflon tape. Threads get the copper grease. Shame the last person in yours not have copper grease.

here is one week of waiting, over and done with

i first ask what were you doing to burn out a FL in the first place, because it seems something may have fused together across a circuit or a switch somewhere. Does your battery have a drain on it overnight and go flat on you ? And just what did you do to repair/replace the burnt out FL ?

shoot me if I am wrong, but I swear i saw a listing for a water pump with a deck height greater than 110mm and I think it was not a rounding of 5 , so 114mm ?? Going in to rock to have a bit of a look, out of curiosity

interesting to see how the alternator pulley lines up, or doesn't.

well, that is some relief for you, to know you have correct hub height. One less thing to have on your list. I did not think it is possible to fit the crank pulley belt drive cog on the wrong way.

read my entries on "water pump has me confused" post, above/below

I have used a press in the past to alter between 105 and 110, vice versa, but no longer have such a big press, could not do the job. Besides, like me, you did not want to do an R & R .....

Hey, I also got caught on the distance between flange and body when I looked and compared by eye. The body of the castings differ between brands. I was just looking for a greater distance between flange to body when inspecting new, saw it was greater than my other wrong pump ( Ihave 105mm in stock, so did not need more with a wait from USA !!. How easy was it just to measure the flipping thing for correctness ? Too easy, yet I did it by eye. An illusion due to different casting dimensions. So, if you can make a disc 57mm dia, 5mm thick, measure up about 16mm hole in centre, about 6.5mm holes for studs, slip it in, you will be sorted. At this stage, I can see you are looking too far outside the box

Do you remember what I wrote somewhere in one of the other water pump posts? Same poo happened to me, with my Rock order, an advertised imperial measurement listing, converts roughly to metric 110mm, came as an -s on the part number, turned out to be the 105mm variety. I got in before the return date and got a 99% refund from them. I got the same uhuh? moment when my pulleys "lined" up just the same as your photos. Down under, we have metal supply shops with round discs for sale, to be used for whatever - plugging ends of pipes, weld in, weld on style etc. 5mm thick flat steel, punched out at 57mm The 57mm fits perfectly inside the water pump pulley of the V belt style, pressed steel pulley. I set about marking out the centre hole and four holes for the mounting bolts/studs. Job done, a 5mm spacer makes a 105mm pump into a 110mm deck height pump. I bet you are outside your return date, due to your ill health before. The one thing that irked me more than having to fix someones muck-up was the diameter of the shaft of the new Dayco pump differed from that of the old brand unknown pump ( still about - I could go out and look) When I made my spacer, I measured the old pump shaft diameter assuming it would be the same as the new. It was not. New pump shaft dia was a bit less, and so a bit sloppy on the pulleys hole and the hole in my spacer. The set up I had, did not really have enough length on new pump shaft outside the flange to get 5mm spacer and 2mm of pulley to actually sit nice on the shaft ...

Well, I guess your part now is to record for posterity, and those who have tools and skill to see waves of any kind, record what you know to be good, and bad.

Yeah, I think we were much the same - if a number was the 17 character length, we call them VIN's , other forms - body number (even if the had letters in them )

were the test procedures you used in the factory manual ?

I am certain my notes got crossed but seems 1978 had a VIN or body number like A69002002, then 1979 went to JF3AS5, 1980 JF3AS5 (see why I think notes crossed?), then 1981 MY - JF3AU5 for the EA81 model, other earlier ones EA71 or smaller? Happy to be shot down for errors.

I'm in Australia where went metirc 50 and 51 years ago , yet in that same week, I trekked into the Albrecht bros. discount store - ALDI and they had their specials - o-rings kit, metric or imperial - take your choice ! I already had a kit from a previous special. Yes, Chinese sourced and not the best stuff when exposed to our UV light, but, sealed inside blue goop - should be OK. OK so far. I would rather you rub the o-ring down instead of subjecting the coolant side to anything that might damage seal - the bag warns to flush of nasties before you fit the pump !

You can key the pulley in to the crank in some respect if use the cam sprocket as a drill guide, do offset two roll pin arrangement in 5mm roll pins. But why bother ? I am planning to do a harmonic balancer mounted 36 minus 1 tooth trigger wheel set up for megajolt EDIS4 - 1 day .....

wasn't it this era that relied quite heavy on the input of the oxygen sensor? What does the injector spray look like ? Can you see it looking into the throttle body ? I might be in Australia, but I have had one of the spfi manifolds, and have feint memory of it.

Probably a sign of the times - seems everyone happy buying new Gen2 Brumbies /BRATs with tin rocker cover OHV EA81, to not do a Gen3 ute. A little wider, some better engine and transmission options would have made for a great vehicle ! There were change-over differences happening in Gen1 Brumby, so I guess same in BRAT. I think 1981 saw the EA81 engine, whereas the 1980 was EA71 1600 cc ? I have some body numbers somewhere for these early beasts.

24mm was the diameter for EA81 lower control arm bush unless the original bush set-up's outer mild steel sleeve has been remove. Then it becomes a 28mm bush you need. EA82 is the 28mm bush. Get in touch with Doug at the DRW bush address supplied above and he will help - he started of his bush design and production for the Subaru community so knows his stuff.

what I have found is these can develop small holes/crack and spit little dollops out, but yours has smeared the grease quite widely, rather than a spray of little dollops. General degreaser does not clean this plastic sort of grease up - wax and grease remover solvent does a good job ! I have not tried methylated spirit or kerosene ....I have found you can repair small holes and cracks in CV boots successfully with silicone, so long as you give it a day or two to cure. My first Subaru came with this sort of repair to a rear boot. I did not have to attend to it in it's 17 years /365,000 km. I found to rough up CV boot with 80 grit, clean with wax and grease remover then the silicon patch. Black is my colour of choice.

On retensioning my timing belts when doing water pump, I did not follow the new belt instructions. I just did it as if doing the service retension through the belt cover bung holes. Undid both bolts of each belt, one side at a time, let the spring of tensioner take up the slack, then nipped up both bolts around 14 ft ell bees

Aw, shoot, you also ordered a DP-1081 - so did I , wanting the 110mm deck height for V belt What came had DP-1081-S with the -S highlighted in red permanent marker on the plastic bag. It may be understood as look out this number is not DP1081, others may take the red mark as removing the -S from part number and DP1081 is inside the clear plastic bag My DP1081-S measured up as 105mm deck height which I know for our Australian delivered models is only been found by me to be for the 4PK multi rib flat belt of XT US markets may differ. Please measure up before fully assemble , if I am not too late.

Shoot, I bet you have not completed the job , otherwise, I am forecasting some foul language coming up. I have just installed same brand pump to one of my EA82s Get your verniers on the job to measure ID of the hole for the metal pipe that fits in with the supplied O-ring. After not getting mine in with silastic stuff as a lube, then with petroleum jelly - no way Jose. Measured up about 0.9 mm smaller ID than the old pump. All pumps I have had in 30 years all had a machined finish to this inlet port on the pump. This one- a cast finish, so not to the specification i expected. I ended up using an imperial O-ring, then shoving it in the other new pump I bought same time, twisting it in dry, until the non machined surface wore the o-ring down to a fit, tight fit. Gooped up with blue max or the like. Job done. I sleeved the bolt holes in pump housing with a metric heat shrink tube to isolate the alloy to steel bolts. I also filled up underside weep hole - if it is gonna leak from the seal, I want to see it up topside thank you very much ! I love those sleeve nuts - thanks for showing detailed photo and details of where you got them. I want a box of various sizes for the future Cabinet making world stuff made industrial strength. I also copped a part number picking issue when pumps supplied, bought 110mm ones, received 105mm. I got a 99% refund, and got to keep them. I made up a 5mm spacer from a 57mm metal disc from the metal supply shop, wasted loads of time making a hole or two in it to go between pump pulley and flange. Working at the moment.