Steptoe's photos

perfect opportunity to do a CIG diff Sam. One rear axle out to drive highway, slip it back in for off roading. while you contemplate the regular two piecer, scour your scrappies and hoarders for the last rear wheel drive Mazda 626 of about 1978 to 1982. their two piece tailshaft is no good, but the cross member, with some work, will take L Series center bearing and bolts so nice and neat to the flats of the floor of Brumby (so assume wagon the same) so all you see is a factory looking cross member and the bolts go through floor to brackets of choice on the top side. No welding to body to burn insulation and carpet. Both of my single piece tailshafts made for Crossbred give woes. I never tried removing an axle to see what happened. - probably not good for my LSD . Oh, migh be an LSD for sale in Gippsland coming up if interested

The brackets - are these due to a lift you have ? Now, I am curious as to how you applied the urethane in order to preserve the joint. Thanks for coming back with a follow up and pics

Buckets of money, bandaids and a swear jar. Lucky for you the US also got EJ22 in the Impreza. Here in Australia we need to rely on early Libertys known to you as Legacy. Very thin on the ground here. The most common conversion seems to be not use the EJ gearbox , yet the 4 speed box may take gentle power from the EJ, most also seem to go for EA82 5 speed 4WD boxes. Then you have gifted people able to shove EJ gearboxes in and work, many seem not to be vibration free when using a custom single piece tailshaft. Use a two piece tail shaft you need to succesfully fit a centre bearing support bracket. With my non EJ conversions in EA81 bodies , using EA82 5 speed 4WD boxes, I found the best cross member piece to use is the 1978-1982 Mazda 626 - the last of the rear wheel drive mid size Mazda - they have this great centre bearing cross member that looks factory when bolted up under the floor of an EA81 body. Some welding mods required to mount centre bearing

Well, not holding you to ransom but pretty sure others would also like to know/see some detail of what this EA71 is in - to grab attention perhaps , of others that may be able to walk you through set up steps. At this stage we don't know what you have it in , if you have any or much mechanical ability, or even a manual to get you past all the easy stuff. Some with EA71 contact points distributors might also crave a distributor with a module inside. With these Hitachi distributors of EA81 and EA82 (1984 only I think) the usual replacement parts are rotor button and distributor cap, then ignition module and the vacuum advance canister on the side. Rarely, some need the bushing replaced. I suspect the module in yours of unknown year at the moment, will be the same module of EA81 and EA82. If so, still easy to get. They are also common to Honda and possibly Nissan of the same era. Vacuum canisters can be overhauled. I can get some factory part numbers to suit this distributor to aid chasing parts

Aaand... you can't believe everything you read/find on the internet. This part number sounded like EA82 body series stuff so I looked it up in L Series catalogue and now note your location. The parts manual says it is for 1.6 litre 1988 through to 1992, maybe 1987 as well (don't recall exactly) So, EA71 engine in an L Series (GEN2) body What are you doing ??

before I looked in, I could see myself saying that a part number stamped into the side is often the most helpful OK. I don't recognise that number at the moment. Is it a points dizzy, or module? Do you have any inkling as to what engine series it looks like it will fit - your close up does not pan out to see if it is EA81 or earlier, or even EA82 twin ear Distributors with part number 22100AA341 stock | ProxyParts.com this link says year model 1990 1.8 litre petrol for Legacy

There we go, the Toyota hybridder enters the room GBA , don't overthink these most basic fuelies. They did not use manifold pressure for much ECU input. There is an overboost pressure switch designed to have ECU cut injectors around 9 psi boost. Next to it is another similar looking switch to get a green glow on a dash light to indicate turbo is starting to spool up - comes on about 2 psi. It may also start to over ride O2 sensor control to enrich for boost load. If it is truly the 3 plug ECU controlled EA82T from 1985 it's ECU won't have anything to do with the timing delivery or advance, that only happened with the 4 plug ECU 87model year and onwards. They got hot wire air flow meters, we three pluggers got a flapper style AFM and a completely independent spark system with a vacuum cannister on the side of the dizzy. If you rely on this off the ground and have vac can, can't hurt to test it for operation. It does spark advance and boost retard and ands a crisper drive when working. I have had many with holes, and even last year, blew a new hole in my new to me from Subaru in Japan 13 years earlier. Just as well you don't run craft on propane. I do, but safely on the ground. To get boost pressure of propane mix sneak through small hole in that diaphragm - then ignite from spark jumping about inside the cap - KABOOM - massive backfire (possibly in your pants too )

GD must be nodding his head in amazement

can you still buy genuine?

it will need to be measured from face that butts to fork to bearing face that meets fingers on pressure plate. Good thing you did not fit an EJ

Before you go too deep into buying stuff you don't need - get someone to help you measure the travel of the fork/cable pivot from pedal up to pedal fully down. The manual states you need 25mm. I learnt all about this on my own despite reading so much on conversions. My EA82 engine and box were in EA81 body. EA81 clutch cable only needed 15mm travel. I fixed the rotter by fitting EA82 RHD clutch pedal to my EA81 pedal box which was already sporting EA82 clutch cable. It ended engine out, fiddle, engine back in, swear SWEAR, start again.

And the vehicle is .... OK your earlier post says EA82, so I won't include EA81 weaknesses. Friction plate go into the mix the correct side facing flywheel ? And you installed the engine stay rod, tightened up on flat level ground, vehicle on it's wheels ? How is this going ?

Thanks for the photo's . I need to look at them in a better lighting environment to study a little more. What Dave said above, about shoving a resistor across the loom side plug terminals has been a common suggestion over the years. I have never had to do this myself. Even plugging a healthy one in place should fix without trying to work out a resistor value to use. The manuals have a very good ECU pin out chart. Yeah ECU controlled.

3-5 OK, where did you find this soleniod? I don't recognise it as a Subaru item but may have been upgraded at some stage or is US DM specific. About the only thing that gets 'purged' is the charcoal cannister. Can you simply add power and ground to the terminals and see a change between flow and no flow? Some solenoids vent to atmosphere, some allow path to be cut and opened. You could also test the loom side of the plug to see what you get on DMM with IGN ON and RUNNING. The moment I got my first 85 turbo up and running - it had a n error code that was similar looking solenoid designated for EGR vacuum supply. Error was " stick to open or close" . A quick test to power it up found it not cooperating, either shorted inside or just pooped. I found same item on a carby model, others have used Toyota for a parts source for these. Fixed once, never gave trouble again. Don't forget those photos of your aircraft !

Whoa - in car , we have to connect a normally disconnected pair of diagnostic plugs that are green - in order to read trouble codes , from memory. There are two levels of diagnostics with the 85 EA82T - the other having some reference to being 'dealer' related. I can look more up if needed. That code 1-2 turns up as a bum steer more often than not according to reports over the years. Maybe Earth points need cleaning up. EA82T in an aircraft !! I need photos General Disorder might be having conniptions reading this !! From memory, when all is good, and engine running, that red LED then blinks to show O2 sensor working OK

well, you have us and your neighbour to keep happy once you have solved the issues

My lazy method would be to renew O2 sensor first, or more effort would be to decipher which incoming wire at ECU is O2 sensor and measure it's input from cold start to warm and throttle blips. Poor condition injectors if you have mpfi or I bet you have spfi ?? First step would be to disconnect O2 sensor and see what difference you get and share result of the most simplest diagnostic step

oil resistant ...pfft ! Heater hose will do until next time I now use silicone heater hose, but plain old rubber has done me OK for years. Just realised EA82 HVLA have a knob on top, not a depression, so a push rod won't do as I suggested above

that is what the forum is all about - talking it out with yourself. What is the history on this ? Have you been driving it and this happen, or you picked up a bargain ? The sort of results you got are similar to my experience of finding burnt valves. Blow by from stuck rings has tended to give me 50% comp test result and no idle issues, or power issues either for that odd matter !

F and S are turbo mounting and exit gasketsso either file away or get a turbo. A is thermostat from the looks.C will fit some EGR units

Bennie, PS "kits" of all the parts needed seem to sell easily for 550. I remember surprise at someone paying 100 and then going for reconditioning costs. I have thrown a few out before then Matey will just have to be content with what he gets or puts away again

I am of no help, but, you say 120 in #2 and title says low in #'s 1 & 3 - how low is that? Could be needing valve adustment, not a tear down ?

it is a little different down here with our BRAT version named Brumby. One sold recently at an auction for mid 20's. I have seen it in the flesh - despite having over 60,000 miles on it, it is as clean as it left the dealer delivery 32 years earlier.Looks like my mate will have to dream up a figure others can afford down here for his gem (gem in his mind anyway )

What a genius idea that is !! I wonder if an EA81 push rod mounted in the chuck would be a perfect fit on the EA82 HVLA ? You need to get your post count up Dave with more great tips

I have primed some in a bath, others not. No difference - i still needed to drive around the streets quietly (apart from tick, tick, tickety, tick) for about 20 minutes to get to temp, heat soak, and air bleed I suppose. Been nice ever since