Steptoe's photos

LED headlight complete, not just the bulb may just be the source of isssue I have had with 92 Brumby losing high beam - have LED on high beam inner position, and 87 Vortex turbo doing same if not similar with external after market relay loom.

Overnight, I entered some typical known parameters I have for one of my still factory EA82T with 4PK flat rib drive accessory belt, entered them into a computer and out spat the 3033 part number used in Australia will fit your vehicle. Further checks in store, in person to like minded thinking person, two stores, independent of each other, both confirm 3033 is for 110mm deck/hub height. The vehicle runs a 105mm pump. I turned the tables and entered generic early carb EA82 Leone and out spat 3034 which we use for the 105mm pump. The chosen car runs a 110mm pump. Nothing has changed in decades and I don't care. It just lends for stories of people with EA82 supply all detail at retail level and get wrong pump, delay, delay, denial....

surely there are enough people reading forum that can supply used ignition switch with keys? A WANT ad title ? The three wire switch generic would likely only have power in, power to start, power to remain on for ignition - no accessory power which may be needed for some basic stuff - not somewhere I would want to go.

I had a dealer call me to report a customer had a touring wagon to sell as they were returning to the US. They were driving it to university and back each day with a closed thermostat. It got hot at each end of the trips, got a day or night to cool down, and start all over again. As soon as I bought it for $250, I drove it to the local shops, pick up vehicle in the back ( my push bike) a few tools and a spare thermostat - I was on my way again after it cooled enough to work on. Vehicle was great condition, not so in demand and became spares for a few of my projects. That poor engine never really suffered, and 16 years later awaits next transplant again I write this as I sit in my 1999 MY NA EJ202 Forester, questioning my realities of these projects happening !!

Ouch. back on topic. I had a spare 105mm in stock, yet pulled a 110mm out of my V belt baby. I no longer have the bits to pull it to 110mm. Figured will keep 105mm as spare for my never had AC AX7 XT-T as it is 4PK ribbed flat belt and 105mm. Go to try order/look online is giving me 2006 memories of being told my AC RXA will be 105mm pay ten bucks more and it turns out being V belt it is 110mm. So, deck heights are not big in specs in all these sellers that noy have stock, just have listig to sell me then find part quickly.... 2024 and there are more water pumps available than there are L Series and EA82 in the country

With the earliest EA82 L Series having production dates starting around August 1984, the much loved EA82 in various forms, is about to hit 40 years old. Many are still going strong

wow ! try dredging up a 14 year old post on Facebook !

it is an Australian ebay link to the NBR rubber - good for a read or reference Nitrile NBR Rubber Sheet 300 x 200 x 1.5mm Gasket Material Oil, Gasket Sheet | eBay

I know silicone sealants generally do not do well with fuel, but, I wonder, I use silicone baking sheet for other areas - wonder how the 0.6mm silicone baking sheet would go in the task you ask ?

as my mechanic mate tells people" just keep on driving until it gets worse"

I think the best I got from EA81 Brumby on highway and mountain runs was 8.5 litres per hundred (twin carb) and a comparison to EA82T Vortex on 98 best was 8.3 , then 99 Forester EJ202 best 7.5 with an average around the 7.7 mark. The EAs are much more fun engines to drive I reckon. Though, may not be fair to the EJ20 as it is too quiet, no induction roar, whisper quiet factory exhaust, I can't use my hearing to gauge gear shift time

You must have cleaned out too much gunk to now get changes in starting abilities. Well done for biting the carb rebuild bullet.

I used to think the LEGO principle applied until I struck SF Forester AUDM. Physically not like LEGO when compared to same era Impreza. FPR comes to mind, injectors too - in our market. Throttle bodies differ. One is cable, other hydraulic for clutch. As for the electricals !! I prefer when my LEGO had a simple battery box for 3 of C cells, basic two pin plug and socket to run my train engine

I think I have just used a grease to hold things together for assembly. Good work on your part. Problem solved until the next one rolls on ...

not holding my breath Bennie. Any changes?

I have thrown anothery at it, from 9/95 Liberty as it looks nice, plug and wiring is the same, just it has long slots, the original has lots of holes to breathe through. Turning the place upside down to find my spare sensor I put aside in a safe place. It is the same. Guess what - I do not get a CEL for O2 sensor even being unplugged. I never got a hint it was not happy, possibly that the input side was happy and working fine to give me 7.5 litres per 100km . I think it had to be some sort of issue in it's power side interfering somehow with my injector power supply, not tripping 15A fuse # 11 behind coin tray ( Mum, what is a coin ?? " or the 30A baby in the engine bay. I do now, however have a code 2-6 for the air temp sensor which is working, right down to the ECU plug. A piece of black tape going over the CEL until ECU sorts itself out again on this one. Delete diagnostic mode won't knock it out.

how about an update on which path the OP chose ??

I used to see this trick done 40 years ago on problem fillers

With the simple disconnection of my SF5 Forester's 3 wire oxygen sensor, I have eliminated the injector-cut symptoms that have both baffled and crippled the beast twice now, 2,000km/six months apart. Injector cut occurs between 2000 and 3000 rpm making it undriveable, not able to get it above 3,000 like this. The first fix took me three months of check, test, swap, tinker, collect manuals in paper form to study to finally find the "main relay" had finally died, giving me a no start result. Replacing it, took away my fuel cut symptoms. Swapping in another did not fix same , six months down the track. The sensor's heater power shares the same circuit as the fuel injectors power supply, so it seems that the as yet, unidentified internal issues of the O2 sensor were causing my injectors to not squirt fuel momentarily under light load. Heavy load is not possible. The only thing preventing the cut out issues is the cold start circuit period of faster idle, fuel enrichment time of about three minutes - perfect for discovering trouble minutes from home on a cold start I am sure mine is the world's first of this reliability issue, so no cause for concern by anybody else. For this possibility to occur, I can see it is not a smart idea to power something so critical as injectors on the same circuit Murphy can have his fun with an O2 sensor !!

brake booster hose fitting secure? Dizzy vac can hold it's suck ? All the vac controls in cabin work and hold at all positions ? L sereis sometimes had air vac leaks behind dash

I usually put load issues to ignition, cruise issues to the carby, so , you know what to do eh? Gees, those runs to Sydney would be 1500km return trips and ran so well Pooey idle could be unwanted intake air leaking in. I collected bits for my intended EJ conversion, but as things happen with me, I tend to go overboard and keep driving the donor My first donor idea was an RXA tht got manual conversion, an LPG conversion and gave 8 fun years , 110,000km km not without other end of scale of fun - issues. Now the Foz is doing it's main relay injector cut stuff again on another used relay. Hoping another rely will sort it in minutes rather than months like last time. Curiuosly is not spelled this way but gonna just leave it - i went to eBay, entered "brown relay" and came up with a Victorian supplier of brown relays 20A six pins for about 25 bucks plus postage - well under what Subaru want for their brown six pin relays

it is payback for your dislike of it's younger sibling - the EA82 Is it a complete jolt cut-out and back again or just one cylinder? 4 degrees on 98 (AUSRON) seems very odd to me as you know, many run 8 dbtdc on lower RON fuel I thought it was odd of you not to have replaced everything in the tune dept before asking in here. Sure you have not been hacked ? I remember years back, a problem with Willie's EA82T that had the online community baffled, his local NT available people, and think it made it's way to SA where problem still not resolved. I ended up buying the heads. From memory, my head reco guy was muttering about a K-line valve stem insert gone bad, poor installation or watever, had wear, and assumed it was intermittently allowing valve to go out of line/centre whatever, and lose compression. Sticky valve at temp ? More good reasons to do your EJ conversion.

that third line may be connected to a higher point of th tank , so may not give any hint that air is feeding in as you add air pressure - no bubbling noise etc - actually both are probably high up. I have a tank out at the moment I could look at... and come back later

just waiting for a bite aren't you ? Bagging the poor old EA82 variants....

any experienced builders out there found a sweet ring gap ? Basic theory is about 12 thou for 92mm bores, up to 19 thou for harder working, mildly hotted up or turbo engines. The factory manuals even list a maximum of about 60 thou, and std being around 7 thou up to I forget ...40 thou?