Steptoe's photos

That is EGR pipe? Exhaust gas gets pretty hot, too hot I would think for rubber hose, maybe even silicone hose. Or is it just some sort of other fresh air rebreather stuff? I have seen about very few EGR on EA81 engines, maybe just one on an engine that was imported as a used/low km engine from Japan. We got more the air pump style of adding fresh, filtered? air to the exhaust, rather than try adding exhaust to the intake - right up to the last 1992 editions..

This all looks good. The detail is what we will be needing later down the dirt track I think. I have not read any reports of the finished BRATleaf, or whether you retain and use a clutch on a flywheel between LEAF power plant and BRAT 4WD gearbox. If retained, I wonder if BRAT clutch can handle LEAF electric torque? End weight of completed eBrat ?

I found it convenient just to delete the throttle body coolant inlet and outlet hoses and just cap things off. I have now noticed that the throttle body on my late 1998 Forester's EJ202 NA also has a three wire something on it that may be an ECU input ? or is it controlled by the ECU to do something? I have done three or four good trips in it , with the final trip having some real issues , maybe coincidentally after I added top grade premium 98 RON (Australiain RON, not same as US RON) instead of the usual base grade 91 RON fuel. Massive all four cylinder cut outs initially up mountain passes etc, but continued on on the plains on the way home. Just wondering if I have caused something, or the 360,000 km coil, leads or fuel pump are starting to tell me something. Or it is the fuel, which some have repoted similar weird, unexplained issues running these on premium

Do you have the skills to turn the undamaged section of the Leaf into a trailer ?

Oh....mine were a bit different. I think I recorded the Ohm reading every 10 degrees or so as displayed on my digital gauge with sensor on the thermostat bolt

It is a bog standard MY1999 EJ202 5MT AWD running 2007 GT 17" 225/55 I think it is 225, all standard. Not lowered, not raised., no exhaust mods, and has the cargo mat and carpet mat and one other accessory that escapes me. It got 3 of 16 accessories on offer. Being a Limited it got ABS air bags for front occupants, power windows all about, power mirrors, AC, PS, roof rails - oh wow - roof rails wtf? I try to keep it under 3,000 anywhere. Give me a worn out EA any day

Here in Australia our top RON rating is different to US RON ratings. I have left a full tank of 98 in my turbo Vortex for up to two years without issue. Things may differ if I left some air in the tank with the fuel - I don't know

I would be ripping the centre from the old thermostat just to run it without that interference for diagnostic purposes to see if it does the same thing. I ran EA82T for years without thermostat and have had no issues with temps or fuel mixtures - none of what nay sayers have claimed will occur. Things may be different if I drove it in traffic.

If only we had a central reference for all these items - in Ohms readings for the operation range. I made notes somewhere of the Ohms of the CTS from cold to op temp, partly to know what to look for and expect and maybe to bypass a dud CTS with a known resistance for op temp to see if problems resolve. If you knew all the inputs the ECU likes, give it what it likes manually to see if problem goes away - you found your problem. More auto electrical bible publication stuff not exposed to general public on the internet

an importer of LED systems here in Australia had the manufacturer make them to his specifications so the lights would be compliant with Aust Design Rules. When I asked him about a similar situation, he, the electrical design engineer, suggested that some relays can build up an oxide of sorts on the terminals due to not enough load going through to power the LED - not enough power load/demand. Swapping or changing relays may fix the problem. Watch this space for when finger is extracted for next step in the task

You would think air box size would be same all over, then I thought maybe the LHD application calls for a smaller element.... then noticed California compliant filter is very close, just need to confirm mm for mm against mine. Very happy with my seemingly gutless, lethargic old EJ202. On the first 300km run gave me better than 38 miles per 4.546 litre or 7.45 litres per 62 miles (100 km) next run was 8.00 litres per 100km, then 7.75 litres per 100km - all on our lowest grade 91 RON fuel. Cost wise is much the same as my EA82T on LPG

I am curious as to know what size air filter elements are used in the USDM SF Forester and the GC8/GF8 Impreza I have air boxes from both my models above in the EJ20 range. The same part number for the casings between the two. The element is about 14" long I ordered a pair of elements from Rock for 1999 MY Forester - just yours are EJ25 - lucky people ! I do recall the measurements given were about the 10 3/8" length and forgot to compare with what I need. So, when they arrived down under, I had been a little more acquainted with them Forester bits, and the newly arriveds did not look correct. Too flipping short by a long shot Th upshot is that I do not need to look for air filters for my Brumby as it uses a GM air box out of our common as dirt GM-Holden Commodore range - and that is what these filters fit ! Our GMH Commodores use the US sourced alloy V6 designs and it looks like GMH also wasted no time on developing their own air filter box All this makes me wonder if USDM got short changed on air box dimensions or rock just has more funny listings than I care to think about

High idle for cold starts comes from air bypassing the throttle plate by electro means - a solenoid air valve. The early mpfi EA82 used a bimetal spring control device that needed ign voltage to start it up. Is yours a spfi beast? If so, I know zip about them.

waiting , waiting, waiting on the result.....oh, you only posted up an hour ago

what if you drop it back to standard ride height? and convert to c clip - what is done to make the grooves for c clips in correct position? You do it or pay some engineering shop?

No mention of whether you run bog standard light inserts or upgraded to anything at all. I got this same problem a year or so after fitting LED to the inner of the quad lights on my Brumby, then blew something major in the worked, worked hard EA81 and still has this problem to be resolved. I have a spare headlight switch, spare stalk switch to throw in one day. Exactly the same, driving along merrily on low beam, hit the really dark patch, ask for high beam, and get left in the flippin' darkness. Needed to turn lights off, then back on to get low beam.

the brake and arm/sway bar swap will work BUT you will see that the GL10 probably has an extra device in the brake lines at the rear that the non turbo/drum rear body does not have. Very common for this device to be left out when people fit the turbo disc rear to L and EA81 bodies. Personally have not suffered any poor brake performance with it not in the equation. Yep, flapper, is the Series 1 of the air flow meters. I think there may have been a subtle difference between 4 wheel disc and disc/drum master cylinders BUT those who fit the disc rear to EA81 models make no changes, so L Series to L Series may not be affected either - if there is a difference. EA81 master has a 50 or 75ml greater capacity than L's for starters so can cope with possible need for a greater fluid capacity as BMC. No difference in L BMC reservoir that I have seen, so not see a problem there

yeah, and it will likely want a fuel cleaner added to the tank once running, then a new fuel filter up front, pump pressure tested while running and test gauge T'eed into the line. Oil seals all about cams , crank, oil pump, inlet manifold gaskets after you break a bolt each side removing inlet manifold, new timing belts for peace of mind ....

when you say 86 model, there was a change over in that year from flapper air flow meter to later more popular hot wire AFM I have had both, and know a little of each It will help us help you to know which one for starters. Do a compression test, with all spark plugs out, maybe an ignition fuse pulled and pump fuse pulled or disconnect fuel pump at pump underneath right side rear passenger seat, but look from under car. Respect Pops and his spoob. To get these running nice at this time in their lives, you may need to do a lot of check, clean, inspect of all sensors, EGR bits and pipes, and stuff. You can learn a lot along the way, the easy way or the hard way. I still like my EA82s after starting on them 25 years ago

Rather than replace FPR , it may be more work though, how about T in the fuel pressure gauge so it is in the loop with the injectors to test their side? A bastard of a task I know

is there even a sock on the external pump to inspect ? at this stage i would start to check the fpr, maybe just for the fun of it, clamp the return fuel rubber hose for a moment and test drive ? Someone else did this recently and replaced fpr after

this was going to happen, but you have worked through the idea to knock it out.

loud pump is not normal for these once engine is running. The ECU gives pump a priming power then safely shuts off power until started. Some issues can be sorted by check inspect all electrical connections especially for sensors and main ecu. A spray of electrical contact cleaner to help ...

one month on ....having had "rod knock" in an EJ due to oil supply run too low, this does not sound like my rod knock

It sounds like same as my 85 turbo when fuel pump failed to keep it up, so to speak. I t'd in a fuel pressure test gauge after the fuel filter. Done as a T in, not end of line or it won't reveal issues, I found. I got the required 36 psi, while revving stationary on the spot, but when taped gauge to windscreen and drove off, pressure dived to 10 psi, spluttered and not died, but return to idle, pressure returned to 36. Repeated all procedures to check again, replaced pump with new after market pump. Sorted !