Steptoe's photos

I used a cable tie to hold the clutch fork back and only a gentle crank turn to align the friction plate and greased lightly , input shaft - and it was that easy. Only taken 25 years of wrestling them to think of this A light coat of lube on all four studs also helped ( i like to think)

the plug it seals a lot better than the heat? shielded cam sensor

I also used a block and tackle hanging from above. Chain bolted to upfacing M10 holes front corner of #2 and same at back of #3, even number of links, then used a turn buckle in between links , from front, upper middle of block to the hook. It allowed me to make fine adjustments to the angle the engine hung. A few tweaks to match angle of the gearbox. It made a swearing event into a quick and easy one person job.

Thankfully it is the tail gate free of lights. So a Series Oe. It also has that butt ugly brush guard on the front bumper. I also find series one grille easier on the eye. Both engines were six bolt, two stud. Imp was late 99 build date, so 2000MY is assumed. Foz built Aug 98. A stroke of luck that the Forester block matched my Imp. Must be careful if I get any more bits. I really struggled with the larger body when grappling with the engine / gearbox separation and engagement. I grabbed a pair of gearbox housing bolts and cut down to 120mm long , one ended studs to assist in aligning the top, while factory studs helped below

it is supposedly less wind resistance if you run a small boat on your roof when it's front faces the rear. I wonder if that pod can be turned about for better wind tunnel readings?

I have a Fiori distributor (two actually, but keep that quiet as that fact may quell prices if I sell them ) Also bought a Ford Escort reman from US, but it came a little naked, looks good fit, so possibly same body as the Ford/Mazda one. The o ring seal gets in the way of fitting in the EJ22 housing. I suspect remove o ring would be perfect, just seal with silicone sealer/gasket maker. Use enough correctly, maybe no bracket required I spied a mid 96 Courier dizzy still in it's own Courier and I recall it had side entry cap, which is always good

Given that the box of gloves was within reach, I don't understand why I was not using them. If I was, I would have had clean hands underneath to take photos for you, of both trigger wheels (integrally cast into the back of timing belt sprocket) and the rubber bung plug. I really do not know Phase 1 and 2 ... stuff I think is related to bellhousing bolt pattern / number ? I think I read somewhere that my EJ20 in the Foz, is EJ202 Foz made August 98 so must be AUDM 1999MY Imp was late 99 so must be 2000MY The Imp EJ20 is now in, running and road tested. Runs pretty sweet too. I have six weeks rego left on it, so plan to keep the test driving going, see what fuel economy it gives . The more I do to it, the longer the donor delay becomes Just about to source some GT mag wheels to do away with seasicky 70 series tyres I had to swap the crank's timing belt cog for the trigger wheel bits to suit the under bonnet ECU. I also had to swap the intake manifold and all it's bits so loom plugs would match. I found that the TB are different in where the coolant comes and goes, maybe for the Foz has hydraulic clutch slave in the way of an Imp TB ? To assist with inlet manifold hook up, I made use of my 8mm silicone end caps and deleted the coolant from the TB. I can assure you I will not be parking in freeze or snow. It simplified hook up and peace of mind of reduced number of hoses to blow in future Using Foz intake fixed the bad injector I had on the Imp, I now have an empty engine bay in the Brumby to build and install my EA82M v2.0.

actually, using a rare as dizzy might make life hell trying to get rotors and caps. Even early to mid 90s dizzys look to be hard to find cheaply. Word is mid 90s , say 96 Ford Courier/Mazda Bravo 2.6 dizzys work, with a module external I think. Everything needs some physical adaptation. I have been sidetracked lately with an all EJ Foz so learning more stuff off this topic

hope you put something on those words you eat Bennie I have an August 1998 made date, so a MY1999MY Forester, with a Sept 1998 compliance plate date ( how different from my Sept 85 made RXA with a 3/87 compliance plate ) I have the original handbooks that the dealer staff completed by hand, stating the same engine number for the EJ20 I just pulled out. 24 years and 360,000 km and hardly a dirty puddle has this seen ! The inside was a different story It appears to have been well serviced and maintained up until recently when life hit a few speed bumps for previous owner. In going in to inspect the crank sensor differences of the one piece cam belt crank cog/ crank trigger. It has a series of teeth, probably normally fit 36 to a trigger, but has a ramp up to a flat of no teeth opposite a no teeth section, then a run of teeth between each one. The donor EJ20 pulled from a late 1999 RX Impreza that has a cam sensor, the crank trigger wheel is basically six pointed trigger. I scored one like this, if not the same, from a 2000's EJ25 Foz engine in prep to try a speedyefi ECU So, swapped the crank trigger to suit the car. There is a rubber plug, looks factory in the cam box section of the #2 and #4 head. The cam sensor of the Impreza is not the same as the crank sensors. It has a metal shield casing around the part that sits in the orifice . I don't know yet if the crank sensor is the same between the two. No part numbers cast, just some feint rubber ink stamp numbers. I am jst finding the larger body of the Foz a bit tricky to get around to line the engine back up to the gearbox. Tinkering with idea to borrow some gearbox bolts for their long shaft to try line up top holes, complimenting Subaru's great stud idea down below. Engine is hanging from an even number of links chain, bolted diagonally. Front of #2 head and rear of #4 has some up facing M10 holes. Planning on using a turn buckle in between block and tackle hook and front of block to get some fine, supported adjustment to get the angle of approach perfect.

Not that I have lurked EJ forums much, but never read of SOHC versions in AUDM Impreza 2000MY with cam sensor and 1999 MY without. Was the no cam sensor to cater for the block mounted ECU of the Forester? I am betting USDM had different versions as I have found only got EJ22 in the Impreza in 2000 Swapping engines between the models is gonna need the crank trigger to be swapped as well as inlet manifold and stuff

was driving my parents GM that had same happen. Turned out that due to it's design, a rivet style of construction that anchored horn to the brackt came llose, horn swiveled on bracket causing earth switched electrical contact male spade, to touch the metal bracket, earthing it I think most horns are earth switched, so even the wire rubbing on the body somewhere can trigger them

did I see you buying a new rear diff , for diagnostic purposes? Oh, not a brand new diff, just new to you, maybe no internal issues - exterior YES !

my 86 turbo sedan was three speed auto , with a button to select 4 WD and the crazy function to have 4WD auto selct if wipers, brakes or kickdown circuits in use, if button on dash was on. The tricky circuitry for this on my RHD sedan was left of steering wheel close to those odd little squares of vents in the plastic dash face. You might find your right of steering column. My trans still worked fine after the auto select circuits died during alternator spike or surge that killed many things sineYou have the whole donor, should be no reason it won't fit and work.. Need a trans cooler of some sort that your manual version not likely have. Separate coolers are a good idea anyway. Odd thing about the 3 speed 4WD auto of this year - front diff ratio is 3.45:1 yet rear diff is standard 3.7:1 so check rear diff is not 3.9:1

I put up a want ad title some years back. One offer came up in the US. I did not take it up. Maybe you could try same?

Do the 1.8 dizzies fit ej22 ?

Flippin' heck, I am just happy to see you are back on the scene. That price in USD looks better. But it really still looks like 4,900 USD or about 10,000 AUD

The EDIS has been in the back of my mind, so too the speedyefi unit. Given that my EDIS project has stalled on my EA82T for too long, I don't think I'll ever get there on the EJ ! I have also been able to source the trigger wheel from a later EJ25 to use on an earlier EJ20 with speedy but suspect my EJ20 has been sitting too long with exhaust ports exposed to moist air - I need to check. I have only just hauled the project Brum off it's weed infested pavers where it has sat for three years or so with the 20 in it, waiting for more work on the gearbox cradle. Levers already shortened, 3.9 diff fitted in the rear. I have to finish polishing it up and pressure wash the redbacks out from under before I go any further. A simple hand crank may settle mind on if it is rusting up or not. I was also sourcing an early Lib as a donor of everything, and that has fallen through for the time being. These conversions are cycling through on a rotation of such slow speed, I am a little ashamed of self....... Phiz is pretty busy with his new home ...I bet he needs some relief

JesZek ! You speak ! four thousand, nine hundred USD? I suspect that it will remain for sale for some time Thanks for your efforts

I have read of Fiori distributors adapted to fit the back of EJ22 heads. I have seen crude photos of a Ford/Mazda distributor installed I have never read the detail being shared in either text or photos or ANY other detail What gives? Never a write up? The Fiori distributor looks like it needs a CNC machined up one piece adaptor to hold the dist centrally, at correct spacing from the back of the turbo side head, and sufficient clamping Then there is the Ford Escort dist. I have one ! But is missing rotor button, cap and whatever three wire module that plugs in. It has a 47.00 mm round bit that loks to be a perfect fit in the ~ 47.00 mm hole at the rear of the cam if the o ring was removed.. Has anyone got info to share please?

any progress Sam?

who put it in ? Sometimes, stuff gets in the way of install that may damage boots, such as the splash guard panel off the chassis. Some tend to bend it out of the way, then bend back when complete. It may have sharp edge ?

start by telling us how much money you have to do this

alignment never really causes wobble in (what, you forgot to say) wheel balance with weights takes out wobble, shudder, vibration at steering wheel I heard a car media guy on the radio talking about our wonderful pot holes, saying that to hit a pot hole, some wheel weights can fly off, so you need to get a wheel alignment. I would suggest he was caught short for his advice, and think if you hit a pot hole and lost wheel weights, you need both wheel balance and wheel alignment. If an auto media adviser got it wrong, not hard for an accomplished machinist to do same You are getting somewhere Sam

I find CV grease can fly out pin holes when things warm up. Hard to find pin holes I know. Also find CV grease is not dissolved by standard degreaser. You need a solvent like wax and grease remover to clean up painted under bonnet surfaces. If you can get at the grease elsewhere where it has not cooked, try degreaser clean up. If that not work it is likely CV grease, try W&G remover. If that works .....

i hope you can submit a wiring diagram or photos. Sounds very clever.