SakoTGrimes

It's the rear hub, so no caliper.... right?

Went to Kragen to get new studs and a lugnut, since my threads got semi stripped when the wheel almost fell off yesterday. Took off the wheel, the big bolt, the washer and the big angled washer, but the hub doesn't want to come off it just wiggles a little. To I just need to pound it with a rubber mallet a some more or should I disconnect something else?

You guys are so freakin awesome, you know that? I got to Sac with only minor trouble - almost lost a damn wheel! I felt a lot of shaking and heard noise from the rear end so I pulled off the freeway and looked for a flat, they all had air. "Hm, maybe it's just that part of freeway is bumpy?" Nope, does it on another road. On closer inspection or one rim, the lugnuts are halfway off, and one is missing!!:eek: Apparently I didn't tighten them down when I put that wheel on, now the threads are semi-stripped but I made damn sure all 15 nuts are super tight now. My stalling problem seems to have gone away since I changed all the fuses - Mike said sometimes an ignition fuse can go out and I think that was the culprit. Sedona is out of my way this week, but I may just be doing some travelling in the near future - I got a Brat so I could sleep in the bed after all and the only commitment I have right now is to my girl. No rent, no bills, no (full time) job, no nothin'! Woooo! If anyone wants to meet for a non-alco drink or light wheeling, I'll be in LA tomorrow (hopefully not during rush hour) and Phoenix and Tucson the next, aong with every town inbetween. Thanks everybody!

Car is running, driving to Sacremento as soon as I hit "post" staying the night then hopefully making it to Tucson the next day. Will be there a few months at least. If the title and this post don't add up, see the last post

With a lift you may want bigger tires, and cut out the fender wells to make room for them

DHM run by Dave right off Jackson St. in Medford is Subaru only - so was Northwest Automotive run by John but he got pushed out of his shop a couple months ago so he needs to find a shop before he can work again. Dan, what's the name of the place in Ashland?

EA81 or EA71, I say go with the larger one and avoid the electrical nightmare that is modern engines.

I don't think the exhaust is clogged. It has sounded fine for the 100 miles I've driven it so far. It only blew pieces out like a foot and only after that major backfire. It's a non-catylist with all original exhaust and muffler.

Did it again today, then backfired really really hard while I was coasting to a park spot. When I got it started again it was throwing tons of black smoke and blew big chunks of rusty exhaust out the tailpipe. Could improper timing be causing this? It sounds to extreme to be just the carb needing work. The cap and plugs+wires are all new:confused:

And now the brights work all by themself.... ok whatever

ThreeEyedBandit, he's not on here that often. It's an 84 wagon with an ER27 and a Jeep Cherokee rad - was on the engine, now in the cargo area with fans.

Matt put his radiator on top of the engine with no hood for a while but it got in the way, plus it would probably get annoying lifting that weight with the hood. What about mounting it into a radiator sized hole in the roof and having 2 fans on top or below that? You'd have one hell of a heater in the winter.

Got the low beams working fine, stuck a modern 25 amp fuse along the way, but the high beams are no go. Sounds like I should run another wire from the battery to a different point on the plastic 5 port connector, right?

So 2 times today, while I was driving in gear the engine suddenly stopped. It didn't sputter or slow down first it just turned off. When I restart, it dies right away, but it starts and runs fine on the 4th or 5th try. I should mention that soon after I first took off the car hicupped twice under heavy throttle kinda like it turned off then on again right away. Distributor, coil, what else might be wrong?

Aircraft owners typically have lots and lots of money to spend on custom made parts to make their engines uber-reliable and efficient.

Da da doo do do do do do dooo!

And for some motivation: (I used to one this one when it was mostly stock) Yup, that's the same green wagon as above, I was driving

You need: a 4WD transmission, rear differential, rear axles and differently splined hubs, driveshaft and rear suspension parts from a 4wd car. Sounds complicated but it's pretty much bolt on from what I hear, never done it myself. As for lifts, you can make one, find one here or buy one from OZified, BYB Boys, Allied Armorment, others... there's a hundred threads about it, you'll find tons if you search.

Maybe it was some kids being stupid or maybe someone chopping firewood and using the car as a convinent thing to toss the ax on when he was picking up logs.

NO. Last one I had would go crazy randomly

That reminds me, I found a some small emmissions peice labeled "Nissan" in my air cleaner assembly the other day

http://medford.craigslist.org/car/271356301.html Says it has no power, sounds like a vaccuum leak or something? Hood got axed too:eek:, anyone got a hood?

Sweet! I've alreadt got about 70 feet of wire leftover so I'll bust into it tomorrow in the light. Thanks man. BTW I tried to get my dad to go pick up your wagon for a first car for my bro, but he didn't go for it.

How about one of these beauties? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=70631

OK... there's no way to get that switch out without breaking it. I found the fat red wire, but I have no clue where it goes. I can't trace where it goes because all the wires under the hood are clustered and wrapped together with electrical tape (can't believe they did that in the factory!) Where does that fat wire stsrt? If I could just find it's starting point I could cut the original and just leave it in place. I really want to leave the wire hacking to a bare minumum since dealing with hacked up wires is my worst nightmare.