SakoTGrimes

I sprayed a ton of carb cleaner while revving the poo out of it yesterday and that improved the idle a lot but didn't clear up the sputter like I hoped. I will try to pull off the carb thing tomorrow, thanks guys

my # is 778-9928 I'm in Medford. Still a newb, but I know some pros who can help out.

Pretty much every car I've had that had an oil light instead of a gauge did that. The pressure is zero when it starts up which would normally be bad (when you're driving) so the light lets you know.

ED, here's the thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=70631 It has all I know about his Brats. Basically none of them are in driving shape, save for the one he is restoring, but I'd say 3 or 4 of them could be dusted off, have engines installed in them and given thourough tuneups and be driven. Any of them could be rolled onto a trailer, only one is smashed bad. And his number is 541 890 6164 - I told him I'd send people his way. He works swing shift so calling around 10AM-noon is best

(EA71) When I give it a little gas, it revs up sputter-ly, when I give it half or full throttle, it dips down for a split second, then jumps up rough and slowly. Similar to when you get some water in your carb. It makes starting off in 1st really hard, especially on a hill. The problem isn't as bad when fully warmed up, but still there. At high RPM (like 2800+ I guess, no tach) it performs beautifully. I put in new NGK V-powers and they helped but only a little. Air filter is brand new. Might the heads being really dirty have something to do with it? The PVC vents are caked with oil crud, but cleaning them out would have knocked it into the heads.

Um... since when are you guys closed on Sundays? I came but no one was there.

He also said 1800s with carbs were hard to find, and that most of them were double overhead cam. I was like WTF are you talking about. He was either just grossly misinformed or just a newb (started buying a year and a half ago)

I didn't even notice the one on the blue one, the one on the cream Brat looks like a DIY job though.

Here is the 81 he wants to restore, there's a FWD carb EA81 wagon next to it I think this one's an 80, the dash is pretty good I think this one's a 79 if IIRC No idea what year this one is the tag is missing. Guy was trying to tell me that single headlight models were made for Australia and brought over by servicemen. Uh... if that were true it would say Brumby and be RHD, no? It got t boned unfortunately This one looks like it could be brought back - I thought it was an 81 w/EA81 because of the air cleaner but couldn't see the block stamp, and I found a registration that says it's a 78. It has the fancy "SUBARU" and FOUR WHEEL DRIVE" decals on it, but they are a little smashed from a minor accident. If you need any parts or wanna buy a whole car, he has paperwork for most of them and I'm sure he's got almost every part needed to make a whole Brat. I forgot to take pictures of wheels! But he has tons, mostly white 8 spokes and a few fancy ones.

I need to take off the knob so I can pull the rest of the light switch out from under the dash, so I can look at it and hopefully get my headlights to work. I already took out the little retaining screw in the knob and Tri-Flow'd it, but it won't turn either way or pull off. I could cut it but I'd rather not break anything. Anyone have any secrets they wish to share?

Didn't you ever read that Ultimate Street Car Challenge in SCC where some dude built a little car (I think it was a Civic) with two engines and two transmissions? Made for some impressive multidirectional burnouts.

Were you interested in buying one of his Brats? He referred to most of them as parts cars but none of them are wasted. I'm going back tomorrow and I'll find out if any are runners or could be made so as well as post lots of pics.

Hey, if you can afford to transport, he's got more. Said he knew some dude who had 30+ Gen-1 Brats, sold em all at once.

Fuse looked good but it's worth the $1.12 to replace all 7(?) I think some part of the switch came loose, in which case I will induldge my penchant for rigging things up to glowing toggle switches.

Where do you work?

Since it cranks out more amps, doesn't is suck more power off the engine lessening HP and MPG? Not that I'm a big power freak but when you've only got 60 or so you need all you can for the hills. Something I've experienced with most of my cars (all old) is that headlights get dim at idle and perk right back up when throttled - obviously an "electricity output dependant on engine speed" thing. Would a big ol Chevy alt solve this?

Oh and even if for some crazy reason this Brat completely craps out on me, I'm not selling it til I get another Ru. I've learned from 8 or 9 months of Ru-lessness that I must have one at all times.

Dude, those Brats have some serious sexiness going on. I like 360s too but I'm too afraid to touch them. Other than biodiesel I have not run any car on alt fuels, however my friend Robert who previously owned my 83 wagon, then later bought it back from me bought a special carburetor on eBay that he uses with a vaporiser (and tank of course) that lets him burn 100% propane. He said it doesn't like to rev up as much, but gained some low rpm torque. I'm quite sure that with careful carb tuning you could make it run exactly like gas. Was the blue Brat a DL? The guy I bought mine from had one single headlight Brat and I figured it was an early DL model and GLs had the duals.

I mentioned this car a few months ago, it's a black 78 wagon owned by a construction worker in Talent OR. It's 4WD EA71 I think and is in great shape, one dent on the door but that's all I saw. Has a pushbar and according to him "runs great" and has never given him trouble in the 3 years since he paid $700 for it. I was going to offer him $4-500 but then got laid off and went broke for like the 80th time. Anyway, he also said he was buying a new car and would probably sell it but as of a week ago I saw he still drives it. Anyone interested?

Why didn't you keep that Brat? I plan to convert to propane or CNG (depends on price and availibility of kits) add a CD or mp3 player, clean up the few (and small) rust holes on the body and bondo, paint them. Maybe rattle can it and get some matching wheels with studless snow tires, that's it. I'll 4wheel, but nothing extreme, don't want to break it. 143K miles BTW

Hmm, now that I actually have a Subaru again (woohoo!) I would: strip everything, acid dip the body, repair all rust, rustproof all metal and paint it a pearly cream white color with factory-looking red metallic stripes, restore the interior and keep it stock except for a nice stereo, Rhinoline the bed. Add a sunroof, front pushbar w/winch. Put on a Weber 32/36 and have some kind of system that would "spray" CNG onto that carb, port and polish heads, camshaft for maybe 85hp, keep the single range and get some nice powdercoat white or black wagon wheels.

Can they really steal cars just like that in Texas? It wouln't surprise me, they did ban biodiesel.

:banghead::banghead: AAAAAUGH! Went to my mom's for dinner and when I left the headlights didn't work (night) so I took their Toyota truck home. Easy fix I know, most likely a switch, but WHY ON THE DAY I GOT IT AND WHY AT NIGHT?!?!?! :mad::mad: Door panel says 6/78 but title says 78, not 79MY

Ugh! I forgot the camera. Guess what he has? Gen-1 Brat tail light lenses. Brand new, in box. He bought every one the dealer had and wants $50 each though. I need to go back with the camera, probably tomorrow, sorry.

I decided just to register it in Oregon. Won't have to get new plates or pass emmisions for 2 years and by then I'll be burning either propane or CNG so no worries.