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SakoTGrimes

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Everything posted by SakoTGrimes

  1. Yes, I searched.... I was curious if there was paint availible to restore EA71/81 valve covers. Also was wondering what the name, or number was, for that light cream Gen-1s came in? Any good Krylon duplicates? And I just came across this 1.5 year old quote from ShawnW "Looks like a ea71 based only on the valve cover color" I never knew they were different colors, looked the same to me. Dont the 1.6 and 1.8 use the same valve covers?
  2. OK I just got back from driving it. The straight poop: It's a 1980, not 78 Engine runs good, not great but good, doesn't shake or make any obvious bad noises. Transmission whines (low on fluid?) gears 1-4 work, didn't try reverse. 4WD lever causes 4WD light to go on, I assume the rears engage but didn't drive in 4. Shifter is sloppy as hell, 1st feels like neutral you can move it around so much. Exhaust smokes like a diesel burning used motor oil until it gets warmed up - my lungs hurt. Speedo reads about 55-65% of actual speed. Dome light works! Headliner is good. Dude pulled the engine out to put in a new clutch which engages fine, he took off the valve covers while he was at it and resealed them with that orange silicone gasket maker stuff. I like it. It needs just enough stuff to knock the price down but it's nothing I can't handle with some USMB help. I hope I don't hurt his feelings too much with my lowball offer, real nice guy, but too optimistic about price. This is the best message board ever! Heat works too, one axle clicks a little
  3. I just went back and took a poo load of pictures all of which are here http://s24.photobucket.com/albums/c39/SakoTGrimes/1978%20Brat%20for%20sale/?start=all The windshield, wheels and underbody appear to be sturdy. Underneath looks very solid, no rust holes no off-road bashings. Bed has a skidplate in it and looks good, just minor surface rust. I was just sticking the camera under the car since I didn't want to crawl around. Loose exhaust bolt WTF!? Look at how it's angled. Weird. The Y pipe looked fine from the front of the car. Rear suspension looked fine. Engine and rear diff are filthy as hell, might need some new seals. Exhaust is questionable. What's with the thing behind the gas tank? Gotta love the pimpin plush interior I suppose maybe I could offer $350 if 250 gets a "no way"
  4. Thank you I will definately take a closer look at it. <- this is me right now
  5. I think probably not, but the easy way to find out is to just pull off your carb and see if the new one fits. If you're good with a plasma cutter and a set of files you could make your own adapter plate - it's the Subaru way! Good luck.
  6. That thing is hardcore!! Way to go! Death Hatch weeeee!
  7. I'm going to see a 78 Brat in a few hours. The window sticker says $1000 which is absurd because it needs tires, has no jump seats, windshield is siliconed up, dash is trashed, wheels are peeling and rusty, dents, bad paint, ect. It's a beater. However, if it runs and drives well then I'll offer him $250 that I think is pretty generous. Anybody in the area is welcome to come along - any suggested lines for talking down the price?:brow:
  8. I say keep the Toyota and ditch the Mazda. Subaru's will have the same lack of power and rust problems as your Toyota, but just like your Toyota, they will keep going and going and going. 372K is nothin'. The 294K the Soob has is less than nothing, especially since that's in kilos. Just make sure you get both (2) timing belts changed as soon as you can, it sucks when they break, although it won't destroy the engine. Things like alternators and distributor coils are easy as cake to change because everything is on TOP of the engine instead of under a bunch of stuff. I just looked at the pics and saw you have manual windows, manual locks, and manual gears aka the recipe for reliability. I'm getting jealous! Go for it!
  9. Isn't the whole point of AWD to make sure you're NOT screwed if one wheel loses traction?
  10. Dude doesn't want to let "my" Brat go cheap and the repair estimate I got for the engine was $480. Thanks but I won't be needing them anymore (or yet).
  11. I called the guy several times yesterday but all cell phones in the area were down for the day. I talked to him today (I was planning on offering him $375) and he said the $400 offer he got from someone else wasn't enough. He's going to fix it and sell for "3x as much" So that's that, no 80 Brat for me. I'll keep looking.
  12. If by auto gear you mean automatic transmission, then no. To put it shortly they are junk. Many people here prefer the engine you've got over the EA82 because it's simpler and somewhat more reliable. Plus you've got 4WD. I say keep your car.
  13. Um..... isn't that Subie sporting them?
  14. Place an ad on craigslist and hire someone with a truck. Preferabbly someone who is unemployed. Pay for their gas/diesel and a couple hundred bucks. Still not cheap though.
  15. At the local dealership they have a MINT 360 van (complete with badge). If I go by there anytime soon I'll try to remember to get a charcoal rubbing off it.
  16. From what I've heard, EJ25s are crap. Japanese STis have 2.0s. If you wanted to convert, just sell your entire driveline and buy a "replacement" driveline for an STi to put in.
  17. Does it have door panels, jump seats or rear window?
  18. Sweet. If I don't discover any major deal breakers on Sunday I'll plan on buying. THe problem is if I can afford it and how to move 2 cars with me to AZ.
  19. I spoke to the owner on the phone just now and got more info, I arranged to see it Sunday morning, it's about 40 miles away The good: clear title runs It's a Brat full set of new valves are included glass pack side exit exhaust new spark plugs has canopy head rests for jump seats It's a Gen-1 bed and rear wheel wells appear to be solid rear sliding window comes with it the set of mags you see are complete extra running EA71 from a 79 parts wagon is availible for $125 the bad: no plates - $54 in OR I think no door panels and seats look crappy rear window isn't installed head rests for jump seats, but no seats could use front brakes (new pads are included) low or no compression in one cylinder - burnt or stuck valve? probably needs new rear shocks 1 torn rear CV boot The rest: He said the wheels are American Racing but they look more like "Shelbys" from the wheel page. Also said it seems to run better on the highway or at higher rpms? Questions: Are lift kits readily availible for this year? Are jump seats hard to find / are Gen-1 and Gen-2 jump seats interchangable? What's needed for EA81 swap besides mounts from an 81 Brat? What should I expect to pay to have those new valves put in? Tachometer and oil pressure gauge installation - easy or not easy? Should I go for it? for $450? I really want it but need money.... willing to sell my Cannondale for that amount.
  20. I;m gonna have to come up with $450 to get this Brat. Selling my car would help but I'd have to dish out like 5K for another when I need a diesel again.
  21. My Benz with holes in the floor was Ziebarted too. Not a good product from what I've seen.
  22. As we all know, EA81s with gas caps that stay closed are rare. My 83 had one. HAD ONE until the pump jockey didn't close it right the day I rolled it and it got crushed. Jerk. Something else that works (for on road use) is velcro
  23. I have been seeing a ton of them lately. There's a guy who drives a mint red Gen-1 Brat around town.
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