Degree210

Made sure the wires are fully seated, they are. Still problems persist. I was almost going to put the old plugs back in or change the gap on the new ones to see if that would help.

There was no oil on the plug wire boots. The knock sensor wire was already in bad shape when I got the car, it was only a matter of time. But from what I can see, there are no other severed connections. I will be having a second pair of eyes take a look at this with me the night after tomorrow to hopefully see anything I am missing.

To access the plugs I removed only the washer reservoir, battery, and airbox. The throttle cable was not in the way, it started below the spark plug wires and I just kept it there. The throttle cable has slack to it. The only code that is throwing is for the knock sensor P0327. The previous owner had work done on it and the mechanic instead of replacing the wire harness for the knock sensor, decided just to crimp them together with some electrical tape over the connection... Just another thing to fix, I have the parts just time needed. Odd thing was that when I cleared the codes with the sensor, the car has a split second when it idles like normal. Doesn't seem like it is about to stall, it seems normal for about two seconds, the code kicks back in and then it starts to idle high again. I didn't think that code would cause the car to rev up like that though?

Here is the story: My 2002 ran into a misfire in cylinders 1 and 2. The car had been occasionally stuttering on accelerations, however, the check engine light would not come on after a stutter, just after hitting high rpm on the highway it would start flashing and stop (above 3k). I was told by a few people to change the wires and I figured I had no idea when the plugs were last changed (used car new to me) so I might as well change those while I am in there. The change of wires and plugs go on without any problems, however, upon starting the car, the car is immediately revving up to around 2000rpm. I figured to take it for a test drive see if it righted itself, which it did not. While I was driving I noticed that the car drove better than it had before, smoother ride, felt like it had more power. I also noticed that the car seemed to always have a little bit of gas on. From a stop, with no gas pedal, the car would begin to accelerate. I was able to let it get to around 25-30mph very slowly, yet all on its own. Upon arriving to a stop at about 10mph (this happens every time), the car would jut forward a bit and the rpm would go up by about 250 for a split second then come back down, almost like I put down the gas pedal. Upon sitting idle in drive the entire car begins to vibrate, with the rpm at around 1100, seeming like it was about to stall. Brake lifted, car goes back to normal with no vibration. Father in law who has owned and fixed many Subaru motors said to keep the car on idle in park for around 20-30min. At about 20min, the car started pulsing the rpm and when gas was applied, simply continued its incessant pulsing instead of revving up. We tried to have the car relearn idle, going through the whole process of disconnecting the battery and then the long series of steps after to no avail. Still all the same problems. Drove it to work about 50mi total, on the way back, the knock sensor wire got disconnected and broke, and I lost a ton of power, the car was then even having a ton of trouble going up hills. The Replacement Parts: I replaced the wires with NGK RC-FX58 wires, and the plugs with NGK 5464 BKR5EIX-11 Iridium IX plugs. The gap on them is 0.044". Now what? I do not know where to start looking for solutions, from what I see and hear, there are no vacuum leaks and the throttle control wire was untouched and is not pulling on the throttle at all until the pedal is down. Any ideas? Thank you in advance for reading this far, sorry it was so long... Just making sure all the information is there.