bustle

The question about the prices is a much asked one up here. Our last local radiator shop closed when the owner retired and I haven't found another one yet. As most new rads aren't rebuildable I never even checked it out. Our economy is hot and most service shops are busy with industrial stuff and labor rates are stiff so I am guessing it would be 85 to 90 % of a new one. I know for a relatively common North American ones you can usually buy a new rad cheaper than recore it if you are just looking at the lower end of the product line.

90% of the sellers won't ship to Canada those that do only use UPS. UPS charges a minimium of $50 for brokerage fees. Takes 15 to 30 days depending on how fast custom's is unless you pay the extra $100 to have it shipped by air in which case it is 5 to 15 days depending on Customs. Plus when it goes by air it can only come into Canada at two cities. So a part that is 500 miles away can travel about 1500 by air to get here. I know this because I tried a while ago to get one of those good deals on a radiator that someone posted on the Ult Sub web sites. Online parts only work good here if you are working on a long term project. Then save up and ship enough stuff to make it worth while to pay the minimium brokerage fee or use USPS as the price is not bad but it can be reallllllly long getting through customs (sometimes) some times only a few days.

1988 GL Wagon 5 speed 4x4 1800 OHC non turbo. I had a switch that controlled the wire coming from the "position" fuse a red wire with white stripe. I never figured out what it was for. Someone suggested the car won't run without a fuse in that slot so the it must be by passed somewhere. Can anyone tell me what it is actually for? Thanks.

We must think alike. I did check the fan direction before I finalized the hook up and upgraded the wire size. The wire is not getting warm. I also wired it into the 15 amp fuse as a double precaution. I am going to stop and get a lower thremostat on the way home today and flush the system. The car is not worth enough to bother replacing any major parts like radiators etc. Normally I would have hard wired it to the key but the need for heat in the winter far outweighs the need for cool in the summer around here.

Must be bypassed somewhere else. The fuse is out right now and it runs fine.

O.K. it was an aftermarket switch and was used to interrupt the circuit that came from the fuse box labeled as ""position"' red wire with white strip. I couldn't find that in my manual. It has been off all the time, any one know what its for? I used the switch to power the fan and my heating problems are greatly reduced but it wasn't extremely hot today so I will likely drop the thermostat to a 180, its a 195 now. The fan kept the engine at the 1/2 way point with the air on. When I turned off the switch and let it build up to almost the red, it cooled it down to about 3/4 but wouldn't bring it back to the 1/2 way mark so I think I have a way to go. I tried to adust the timing back but the disributor is frozen in place. A light taping with a bar and hammer didn't loosen it so a new plan is required.

Sorry 1988 GL Wagon 5 speed 4x4. I would like to be able to turn off the electric fan as its fine 95 % of the time, need the heat in winter up here.

I have an illumated (red) switch on the left hand side of the steering column just behind the light stalk. It lights when I turn it on but other than that I can't figure out what it does or is supposed to do. I can't find it in any of my literature. I want to hard wire the cooling fan to this switch if it is not used for something else. We have had unusally long periods of hot weather and it is running pretty hot and that fan is still not kicking in. Another weird thing on my car is there is a parking light? switch on the top of the steering column. If I turn it off it shuts of all the rear parking lights. Is that normal? I think the system has been modified to having daytime running lights as I am in Canada and the car is originally a US model. So the lights come and go with the ignition. Any thoughts would be appreciated, thanks.

Not many in the salvage yards and they were all major toasted. All were worse than mine which has no 1,2 or 3 speed. At least mine isn't compositng like most of them.

Anyone have an online source (88 loyale). Napa Canada has none and the independent parts place says they are discontinued in all their books. Thanks

If you have a good floor jack and the tools it should be a one day job. I did a clutch in about 5 hours having never worked on a Sub before but I do have good air tools in my garage. An extra pair of hands would have helped. Don't disassemble the drive shaft ( assuming you have 4X4). Just drop the center bearing and pull back and lay aside. Should have new split pins for the front shafts and replacement gaskets for the exhaust system and some new bolts for it. If possible get to carwash and wash of as much oil and dirt as you can. The upside of leaky Subs is the bolts usually aren't rusted in.

Thanks very much guys, they are know armed with some more intelligence to ask the right questions and some knowledge as to what the right answers could be.

Scary, that's the dealer talking to them. I thought it must just be valve covers but they are quoting $1500 Cdn. I think they are being hosed.

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Co-Worker has been advised she needs new head gaskets on her 99 Forester (sorry don't know SOHC or DOHC) due to severe oil leak. What other things should be replaced during this work? I have advised timing belts but would appreciate other comments to pass on. Thanks.

I had suspected those rubber plugs, but mine are supple and in place. Also I use the Subaru as a tow behind the motor home in summer and we dusted it up under the hood pretty good on a gravel road into a campground. There was still lots of dust (and no mud) in that area. That's why I am leaning towards a heater box thing. I will check the AC hose. I can see it but I think I have to pull the rug out to ensure it is draining outside. Couldn't see any evidence of water on the dash so I think the windshield is O.K.

I have had severe water influx (rainwater). RHS (passenger) front and back. Car was parked on fairly steep uphill slope during heavy rain storm. No evidence it came in through windows or doors. Have had it parked in severe rain before but level or slight downhill direction and never had an signs of water. I suspect through the heater box? Could there be a plugged drain hole in the heater box system? Any suggestions much appreciated. I want to dry it out before the snow flies. Thanks in advance.

The cover has a recess in it to accept the gasket. The head is smooth so you want to put it in the cover. The Felpro gaskets I had were a composite material that allegedly have some sort of chemical compostion that is supposed to help them seal without the use of added sealers. 150 miles so far and no leaks. The ones that were in it looked similar but were hardened with age.

I just did mine. It was fairly easy. It took longer to clean up the old oil spills than actually change the gaskets. My Feelpro kit came with new grommets already molded to the washers. After I put it together I ran the engine til hot looking for leaks then carefully snugged the bolts again. I am already over 13 miles and no leaks! As with most aluminium car parts its best to go around at the proper torque several times.

I found wires broken off on one of my window switches. I think is someone was careless removing door panels this could appen.

Wiring diagrams sent by email, hope they are of some help.

PM'd you

Sorry mine expired on the 17th

Couldn't find this one in the archives. Changed the master cylinder yesterday. Today I had a small puddle (tablespoon) of antifreeze in the skid plate. Anti freeze on the top driver side (North America) of the engine behind the intake. Appeared to be right under the black pipe running between the engine and the heater and puddled into one on the casting depressions. Sort of near where the pipe bracket bolts to the engine. I started the car, checked, wiped of the anti-freeze. The rest evaporated, now nothing. I let it cool and restarted later. Still no anti-freeze. I checked the hose clamps and they were tight. Can those pipes rust through? Leak back where they attach at the engine? Anyway I couldn't find any dampness anywhere. Any advice? Did I maybe just wiggle the heater lines while wrestling with the Master Cylinder? Thanks