hatchsub

If you had posted I would have sent you to a place in Australia as well. I had the same issue with my former coupe. Is this the one that the guy has been trying to sell for years on cl?

Well we are talking about a 74 hp motor so really it doesn't need a super hot spark to run well. Will an aftermarket coil produce a hotter spark. Yes. Will you actually be able to tell the difference. Probably not. I couldn't. Not to mention the quality of accel coils is crap. Mine didn't last more than a year before it blew out the pickup in my distributor. I swapped all back to stock and never had a coil related problem again.

Stick with the factory ones. If yours is getting tired see if you can find a stock replacement. I ran an accel super stock for awhile but its really not worth the money and there are zero gains to be had.

Had a whole reply typed and hit the wrong key and erased it. Blah. My exhaust was a custom y to a full catback. 2 inch from the head to the tailpipe. Solid lifters are fine you will just need to close down the valve lash settings slightly. Get permatoque headgaskets and be done with it. I did some searching and found this video of my coupe from years ago. Exhaust sound clip

As for pictures of the exhaust you will have to pm beechbum (sp). His name is Dan and he is in Virginia beach. Not sure how often he makes it on here but he owns my old coupe.

I'm going to attempt to explain it and see if I succeed or not. Since the heads are shaved the rocker is now closer to the base circle of the cam. The pushrod length didn't change so when the cam comes around and moves the pushrod if is now pushing that rocker a tiny bit further than before (the amount you shaved the heads). For the lift to remain the same as it was you would need to shorten the pushrod the same amount that you shaved the heads.

The last motor I built I did the shaved heads with a five angle valve job and Weber carb. I did not touch the bottom end at all since it had 55k miles when I put it together. I also had a 2 inch stainless exhaust the whole way back. So to answer your question no you don't need to do anything more if you don't want to. You will get more lift from the cam with just the head shave. My old Subaru really moved well for having a stock grind cam. Surprised quit a few people.

You talking about a ea81 coupe correct? Your going to have to do what I did and contact a place in Australia that I seem to remember being called Phils rotary and fast fours. Coupes are a different animal from all other ea81 vehicles.

Which is what I said a few posts ago lol. A hydro lifter acts the same and doesn't kno it's in a 74 hp Subaru or a 400 hp small block Chevy. Get it to zero and give it 1/4-1/2 turn more and lock it down and you will be golden

Here is another thread on the subject from last year. Id be curious to see what the whole procedure says to do in the FSM. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/155873-ea81-valve-adjustment-issues/

Well if thats what the FSM says then go by that but it doesn't make sense to me. A hydro lifter is a hydro lifter whether its in a EA81 subaru or a 400 hp small block chevy. They both operate on the same principle where there is a small spring inside and the oil pressure itself works to pump it up. If he is loosening the adjuster 1 1/4 turns from where the pushrod is just starting to be tight that says to me that it will make a ton of noise.

Make sure the fsm is telling you to do it for a hydro lifter motor and not a solid lifter motor. My guess is you are reading the procedure for the solid lifter motor. Those require a tiny bit of clearance where hydro motors do not. If you adjust a hydro lifter motor like a solid it will make a r.ton of noise. Last I heard the fsm does not go over hydro lifter adjustment because there should not be a need to in most instances. The method I described is exactly how to adjust hydro lifters on a small block Chevy or ford but there should be no reason at all why it would not work on a Subaru since the hydro lifter is acting the same in both instances.

There is a very good chance they are too loose if you are hearing tons of noise. Try a drive around the block and see if that fixes it. If not you will have to turn the motor over by hand until the valve you are trying to adjust is closed and do as follows. -Back out until you get play in the pushrod -Tighten until you just start to feel resistance turning the pushrod between your fingers -tighten 1/4 of a turn more and lock down the adjuster making sure you are not tightening it more - go around and repeat that for each valve and you should be good

Search on here somewhere. There are pictures of how I mounted 4x6 plate speakers in the stock locations. Took a bit of work on the drivers side but it was worth it.

Do a search of my old posts I kno I listed part numbers somewhere.