hatchsub

I just posted that because all winter the camaro has been off the road receiving its 400hp 355 sbc and 5 speed manual so ill want to take it cruising and driving as much as possible in nice weather.

Will i be banned if i decide to take a non-subaru?

Its more the fact that napa gaskets are crap. They are just the sheet of metal with the paper stuff inbetween. If you get gaskets from napa for your subaru tell them you have a 88 or there abouts TURBO subaru. The gaskets you get cost a bit more but are much much better quality. Ive actually reused my gaskets a few times because they were that good.

That works for me. Ill make sure to keep it clear if it works for Connie and everyone else.

I vote August just for this reason!!! Better bring it John!!! Speaking of engines and such...do you have a piston pin puller i could borrow? I wanna pull the Hydro apart and build it up. Maybe ill have that done by august too.

Im in massachusetts that weekend.

hahahaaha Ug well ill make this easy on everyone else. As of now...every weekend is open for me. So as long as there is a decision soon im in.

What about Johns "flaming" a$$ :lol: Sorry buddy had to Yea id be more game for Connies rather than Carlisle.

^this. The past two years were kinda lame. I wasnt even that interested in the show anymore. All i was going for was to see people that i didnt see all year which is why i suggested a middle ground for everyone rather than running out there for the same purpose. If enough people do decide to go to carlisle this year than i may change my mind and make the trek again but last year i was thinking was going to be my final year....but then again...waffle house....decisions decisions.

Better be picks!!! As for Carlisle..i havent fully decided if i want to go this year or not. As John said i do want to see you all but a 5 hour drive plus 20 dollar entry plus other expenses adds up quick. Is there another location closer to everyone that would work? Has anyone heard from Connie lately?

I can tell you what i did with mine. I used KYB Gr2's at all for corners and cut one full coil out of a set of turbo EA81 springs in the front. I also put a turbo EA81 sway bar in front along with welding a XT6 rear sway bar to the rear control arms. It handles a lot better than stock but still not to the degree i would like it. There is a seller on ebay selling addco sway bars for our cars for the 160 dollar range that are 1 inch diameter solid bars that should def help keep it flat in the turns. The biggest thing holding the suspension on these cars back in my opinion is the lack of aftermarket struts and shocks that are performance oriented. The GR2's are great for returning a slightly better than stock road feel but they are no where close to what i would call a performance shock. You can however get a KYB gas adjust for the rear but the front is where the issue is. Mine..even with the cut down turbo springs and fresh-ish kybs is still a bit too mushy in the turns and as the tendency to lean alot in the corners. But then again...i push my car a bit too

UPDATE! pulled the dash today and checked by pouring water in the cowl area from outside. Water is coming in. So went one step farther and took out the heater core and center air vent system. It was behind all that i found the rot starting. It is going to be a tough fix but i got no choice at this point. Gotta move forward.

Ive been so busy with work that i havent had a chance to pull the dash and take a look back there. It doesnt seem to leak that bad anymore. I think i had an ice damning issue this winter with water backing up where it shouldnt. I still see a small drip here and there when it pours but otherwise it stays dry. Im going to pull the dash and poke around then if i cant find anything im going to pour an entire gallon of water into the cowl area and run around and look to see where (if at all) its coming in. I wanted to do it this weekend but got tied up doing other odds and ends. I will make sure to update this when i do find out where its coming from.

Im thinking it has to do with people not knowing when is ok to use 4wd and when its not ok. Im sure there were plenty of people out there running around in 4wd on dry pavement ruining their transmission and putting strain on the entire drivetrain. My guess is subaru decided to make it easier on the less informed people (read morons lol) and just make a system that was in awd and could be used with no ill effects in the dry/wet/snowy. Takes the thinking out of driving a car which is what america seems to like Im not basing subaru at all btw. AWD is great and ill probably own one eventually.

Sorry i didnt see this sooner but... If your carb comes with the 2.5" tall air filter you'll have to order up a new one that is the shorter style. Unless your lifted your hood will interfere with the tall one.

outside section of a Cadillac emblem?

Normal. Mine does it too in 2nd and 3rd. I use 75w90 non synthetic. It makes the shifts when cold a bit better. But here is a tip for you (and everyone) that will make cold shifts easier. Double clutch 2nd and 3rd until the car is up to temp. I might need to explain that a bit since i didnt know what it was until i started to drive stick. When you go from 1st to 2nd instead of going straight into 2nd put the car into neutral and let the clutch out. Then push it back in and put it into 2nd. Do the same for 3rd. This aligns the gears so that the syncros do not need to work as hard so there is less chance of the gears grinding. Ive been doing that for the past 5 years or so and my trans still shifts perfect because of it.

Cool thanks for the suggestions guys.

Another thing that i didnt see mentioned on this topic was that roller lifters need to be held in place from rotating by some sort of mechanism With small block chevy factory rollers that is called a spider. The roller lifters have a flat spot on the sides so that they physically can not rotate while going up and down. If the motor was originally a flat tappet then they would require special roller lifters to work called retrofit rollers. They have a small bar connecting two lifters together to keep them from rotating. Picture of the spider in the lifter valley of a sbc Picture of retrofit roller lifters with the bar connecting the two keeping them from spinning. Basically i dont think it is feasible at all. It would be a small fortune to have a company design and make all the specialized parts to make it work in our motors and there would be such a limited market for it (maybe two or three people) that it wouldnt justify the huge costs of producing it. Good old supply and demand.

Does anyone know where to get one? I am planning on pulling apart my spare hydro ea81 and doing a full rebuild of it with SPFI pistons and need to get the old ones out first. Thanks to anyone that can help in this. I was looking around ebay at piston pin removal tools but didnt know what type i would need.

Its water not coolant. I wonder if the cowl rusted through and is leaking in one spot. I gotta get in there to check it out. Friggin thing wont give me a break.

He used glue between the body and gasket and gasket and window so i dont think thats the case. Its dripping in right behind the center console kinda to the right of the accelerator pedal. Only thing i can think of is the cowl area and i dont have the time to check on it until..idk the end of winter.

Ive done that in the past. there was some stuff..as well as some rust but nothing through that i could tell. I think something broke through. Ill have to take it off and take a peek i guess.

I finally got around to getting the windshield and rear window resealed by a pro. He did an awesome job and i have yet to see any water coming in from there again. So..all windows are set now..but i found some water icing and dripping from under the dash basically in the heater box area. My question to those that have pulled apart the EA81s in that area is..is there a area that could back up and cause this problem? A gasket? Im just trying to find a simple solution to this other than the potential problem i think it really is.

haha yea the carter weber had that dumb hold down design. Thats another reason why they get vacuum leaks too is because there are only 2 bolts holding it down compared to the 4 that hold down the hitachi's (or 32/36 webers that people replace hitachi's with). I had a carter weber on two cars and could not get it to run correctly on either.