hatchsub

They are very reliable if taken care of. Just like anything though..they are 27 some odd years old (almost 28). So with age comes issues that need to be addressed from time to time. As others have said..if you keep coolant in it and change the oil regularly you will be fine. If you lived closer id offer to go through it for you and make sure everything is good. Hell i have a 5 speed manual swap too that would solve her only issue with it lol.

Yup that brings me back to my old sedan.

Coil wont be the issue. It either works or doesnt for the most part. If its running good without laying into it its something carb related/tuning. What is your timing set at. With a weber you can run a bit more aggressive timing than stock. If i remember right an EA82 runs 20degrees stock? You can bump that up a few degrees. But before you do that go out and figure out where it bogs. You should be able to feel in the pedal when the secondary kicks open. Is that where its bogging down? If so you may have a clogged secondary jet from the carb sitting so long. Those are few things to get you started. There are other options but those are the most likely in my mind.

Yea i still have a cat on mine. Forgot to mention that. The exhaust shop that built the exhaust would not build it without a cat so i said fine lol. Its probably better that way anyways since 2 inch primaries are a bit big so i dont mind the slight backpressure from the cat.

Got it. Link above.

couldnt even get that far. I guess my computer doesnt recognize that im trying to upload a video (mac). So...no idea how to do it. I have a canon and i cant even open the camera on the desktop. Sorry but i looked around and i guess i need a usb adapter so that i can plug the memory card right into the adapter and do it that way. Edit...disregard that i figured it out. Here is the video on youtube. Enjoy. Not the best sound quality but you get the idea.

Good thing i got the day off lol. Yea ill go take a short vid of it at idle and revving. Ill post it in a bit if i can figure out how to load it to photobucket.

I have a full 2" stainless steel exhaust on my EA81 with a magnaflow muffler. At idle its nice and quiet with a slight burble. When i get on it it sounds pretty damn mean. Its not so loud that i get tired of it on long trips either. Its my daily so i tried to make it sound good without being obnoxious.

Cant help you with the first one but with the distributor issue yes thats correct. If you keep the rotor in the same spot relative to the distributor (so it still lines up where its supposed to with the points on the cap) then you can drop it back in one tooth over one way or the other to get it to bolt down.

Not the first person i have heard of to use a house painter to paint a car. Dont expect fantastic results out of it but you should be able to get a nice 10 footer from it if done right and wet sanded and buffed at the end. Here is a thread from my camaro/firebird board of someone who did the same thing. He mixed his paint 2:1 with mineral sprits to water it down for the gun. http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/auto-detailing-appearance/475199-my-budget-paint-job.html

Tell him to double clutch 4th...as in put it in neutral..let the clutch out...push the clutch in and put it into 4th. It might help that gear along a bit longer but what GD said. At this point its only going to get worse. Time to start looking for another trans.

If its popping out of gear his 4th gear is shot. These trans are not really worth the bother to fix since you can still find them. Is this 2wd or 4wd? 2wd 4 speeds a a bit hard to come by but he can upgrade to a 5 speed. If its 4wd those are easier to find.

Bringing this thread back from the dead because i have a similar want. I put some new vented rotors on the front of my coupe along with the rear disk upgrade from a Turbo EA82. I had to dial in the rear brakes however with adjustable proportioning valves which required a few very hard stops to get the fronts to the point where they just locked up before the rears. The problem is....my new vented rotors are now warped and at around 10 bucks a pop they are not really worth getting turned down. My question is should i go out of my way and get a set of brembos? I do like to play around every now and again but i wouldnt think that a few hard stops would warp the rotors so easily. I was not very impressed with the rotors. They are from rock auto.

No timing belts...it has gears. No sensors...this engine only had a carb and distributor. Doesnt get much simpler than the EA81. Onto the problem at hand though. Pull the coil spark plug wire off the coil and have someone crank it over. I want to know if your getting spark at the coil. My bet is your not. This probably is not the fault of the coil either. Its probably that the coil is not being supplied power. If you turn your ignition to on and use a test light on the positive post of the coil you should be getting power to it. If not then you have to start backtracking. Do you still have the fusable links from the subaru brat that motor came from. If so there is one marked ignition. Check to see that your getting power through it. Also check the fuses in your vw. There is a ignition fuse (under the hood or under the dash not sure). Once you start dealing with conversions where things are not set up the same as factory you run into issues such as this that need resolving.

[quote name=Nubaru;954618 I can install the new clutch without an alignment tool by.. Removeing old clutch and pressure plate. Install new and only hand tighten the bolts holding the plate on. Then i can reinstall the engine. With the starter off i can see the bolts and finish tightening them. Every other one' date=' and evenly, untill they are all at 20ft lbs torq? Do i have this right? Anyway.. that's what's going on. It's been Hard to decide what to do check for check when it needed so much.. And so much less now. Thanks for looking and all the help![/quote] Yes you should be able to do it that way. Others on this board do it that way. I have yet to try it but probably will the next time my engine is out.

I debated the same thing but just took a wire wheel to the threads instead. Cleaned them up super nice and got rid of all the crap that was in them over the years. Then just make sure to oil the threads when you torque the heads on (after you put the head gasket down the studs) and you should be good to go.

12 degrees shouldnt be killing your mileage that bad. I had my car running at around 11 for 3 years and got 30mpg on the highway no problem. Ill second what GD said. What are your jets. Also when was the last time it had a tune-up (plugs, wires, rotor, cap)? Fuel filters? How are the wheel bearings? All these are things to consider when your getting bad mileage.

Im not sure it would work on my trunk because the angle of the EA82 trunk is different than on the EA81...but im still intrigued. Is it in good shape? If its rubbery...does that mean it flexes easily and could be sorta "formed" to my trunk without hurting the spoiler? If so you might have found a buyer if the side to side dimentions match the EA81 well enough. Also how is it attached?

I dont usually mask just because it leaves a hard line. Yea i mask off farther up to keep any overspray from getting where i really dont want it but i dont make a hard line with my primer or paint. I blend both into the surrounding areas. Its also good that your using base, clear. I forgot to mention earlier that it is easier to make it look good at the end with the two stage. GD does make a good point about doing entire panels to avoid blending. Ive used this method as well with good results but in some places on the car its just not feasible to do so and blending is the only real solution. Im an amateur painter as well...but with the advantage that i a professional body man as a good friend .

It will run with it the other way sure. I ran mine for years like you probably have it hooked. But it would suck oil into the PCV and blow it out the tailpipe every once in awhile under good acceleration.

Here is a diagram of how to set the floats on the weber. I found that right out of the box mine was incorrect so i reset mine. http://www.racetep.com/weberX.html Just make sure you do it for plastic or brass (whichever you have) There are two different settings depending on what you have. As for the oil in the breather...how do you have your PCV hooked up? Did you basically imitate the factory setup with a smaller 1/4 inch line beteween the PCV and the passenger side of the motor? It needs this otherwise you will not get the correct flow characteristics and you will be blowing oil everywhere and possibly doing harm to the engine. GD stressed it enough in the past that i redid my lines and got rid of my oil blowing problem...but i think a bit too late since my motor went south a month ago. Here is a picture of how mine is hooked up for reference. Note the 1/4" line that is between the passenger side head and the pcv/drivers side head. This is the important piece to get the proper flow. A quote from GD explaining it better than i just did: "The PCV system needs a directional flow - in one head and out the other then to the PCV valve. But you need a smaller diameter hose between the second head and the PCV valve going back to the air filter in order to break the high vacuum and prevent oil being sucked into the manifold."

Are we talking about spot painting with a rattle can? Or more fancy than that? You can get decent results with a rattle can if done correctly and in an area that is not too noticeable (IE the center of your hood lol). What i do once the area is prepped and smooth and ready for paint is shoot it with about 2-3 light, even coats of primer. We are talking pretty light here on each just to get coverage. You dont need perfect coverage the first shot. Thats what the multiple coats are for. You should wait about 10-15 minutes between coats or until it flashes (loses its shin and turns dull). Once that step is all done i start the paint. Are you planning on a base clear or are you going to do all mixed into one (single stage)? For this im going to assume your going to do base clear. The trick to the paint is to blend into the panel. The area that was repaired in other words will take more paint than the surrounding areas. When i fix an area, i am very lightly painting into other areas that i did not fix. So for example...i fixed a rusty rocker panel on subaru. I fixed maybe 4 inches of the rocker..but painted 10-12 inches. Only the first 4 got the brunt of the paint and the rest got a dusting. You keep it slow and steady over the area repaired and then speed up on the areas that dont need paint. Its just a trick of the eye...making the repair less noticeable. It also avoids sharp tape lines. Once that is done shoot it with some clear (1-3 coats with the last one being slightly heavier but still not very heavy). If your really going all out wait for it to set up for a month or so then wet sand and buff. Not sure this is what you were looking for or not.

Yea i have a 5 speed 2wd. That does make a bit of difference i suppose seeing as how i have never rocked a 4 speed 4x4 subaru (oh the horror! ).

There are most likely more things going on than just a valve adjustment. Ill touch on some that come to mind right off the top of my head. -Fuel filters (both!) -Timing (stock is 8 degrees...you can probably advance it to 9 or 10) -When was the last time the engine had a tuneup (plugs,wires, rotor, cap)? -wheel bearings...you would be surprised how much that could keep your car held back -plugged up exhaust/cat And yes valves can be a part of it. Intake valves are supposed to be .10 and exhaust are supposed to be .14. Check how to keep your subaru alive HTKYSA for the detailed instructions of how to do it. Once you do it once or twice it gets easy. And no you dont need to pull the motor to do the valves. Very easy to do with the motor in the car. Just so you know a stock EA81 is nothing to write home about for power but your does sound like its a bit on the low side. I was able to top out my gauge on a flats pretty easy and downhill i estimated about 100 or so if not more once.

Ive actually found that thinner is a slightly better for smooth shifts. I use 75w90 in mine. Non-synthetic. Ive heard multiple things back and forth about synthetic vs non- synthetic. I too am using synthetic motor oil but my gear oil is just normal non-synthetic. I really dont see how running synthetic will do any harm. Just make sure it doesnt have a friction modifier in it (think LSD rears). I was one that experienced grinding and such when i went for that one because it didnt allow the syncros to line up correctly. Swapped it for normal oil and all was well. Im sure if i switched it for normal synthetic as well i would have been fine.