hatchsub

Any of those parts cars lol?

Yea id love some pictures! I bet both of those are pretty rare. Ive never even seen a spoiler on a EA81. I have seen louvers but only twice (once in person). Too bad the louvers from a sedan will not fit on a coupe otherwise id be begging you to grab both.

I found this on ebay a few days ago after having seen on on a saab 900 thats still around town. It seems that it would fit the lines of the EA81 coupe/sedan very well. But....not for 200 bucks lol. Im just wondering if i should nab one from the jy and try it out (if an when i find this supposedly "rare" spoiler). http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290423166972&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

The one about fuel filters and a higher flow fuel pump? Yup i got it and actually ordered new fuel filters from rockauto the same day lol. As for the oil pressure...i swapped sending units with my other motor. I also noticed the monster oil leak that had been coming from the sending unit. So....resealed and "new" sending unit and all is well. 57psi hot cruising and 25psi hot idle. Figure im in the clear as far as oil pressure goes. This is the motor that was spotless on the inside so i dont really think im going to bother pulling the pump apart at this point. Maybe if i get some free time but it seems to be just fine. Oh and im running mobile 1 in it now. Maybe overkill but i saw what the inside of the other one looked like. I dont really feel like seeing that again.

You torque the rocker arm assembly bolts like head bolts as well. It is a three step torque sequence and the center one was a problem until i realized that after you torque the heads down to spec, you take the rocker arm assemblies off to put the pushrods back in ( in other words your torquing the heads on without the pushrods installed). Since you are just taking the rocker arm assemblies off you can make some sort of spacers to take the place of the rocker arm assemblies. I just happened to have two ea81s so i took apart a rocker arm assembly and installed just the sections that goes between the bolts and the head and torqued it all down that way. Then i took those back out and torqued the rocker arm assembly on. Doing it this way you dont need to buy a special tool for that center 17mm nut. Also common practice is to do a final torque slightly higher than the factory 47 if your using the permatoque gaskets from felpro. I went with 54 ft pounds.

I didnt in fact open the oil pump up. it has 52k on it and i didnt want to pop it open since i didnt have new gaskets to put it back together with and it was a matter of time that i wanted the car back together in a timely manner. I also did not do a full rebuild...just a top end. I didnt split the case.

Could be but until i find out for sure im not driving it. That was way low and this is a "new" motor for me so i dont really feel like burning out main bearings.

Just noticed this on the way home after a really bad day and this didnt help it any. Under 2000rpms my oil pressure went to 25 or under in some instances. If i kept it at around 2800 or 3k it would stay at 50psi. Im not used to seeing 25psi at anything other than idle let alone anything under 25 period. Does this sound like a crapped out oil pump or a faulty sender? Does anyone have a picture of a worn out oil pump on the inside? I took this pump out and resealed it and everything looked nice to me but maybe i was mistaken. I might also want to add that when i first put in this motor it was showing insane oil pressure (as in 75 cruising around warm). That makes me think maybe sender. assuming these pumps have bypass valves? Could it be sticking/going out on me?

http://www.diyautotune.com/?gclid=CIfY6L3O5KMCFd9n5QoduTUolQ Megasquirt basically takes a lot of the guess work out of computers and tuning. My buddy just threw a megasquirt computer in his turbo merkur and it really hauls. It really allows you to fine tune the engine..but at a price. To do it right (and i assume you do) you will need a wideband 02 (around 200) to actually see what your changes in the computer are doing as well as the computer itself (probably looking at around 400 for that). So by the time your done you will have somewhere in the range of 600-700 dollars in the wiring and tuning supplies to run the EA81T. It would be awesome to do and def a headturner but...the more logical thing would be to run the 2.2 with the 2.2 wiring and be done with it. More power + less money = no brainer. Not as interesting for sure but probably less headache in the end.

Type of Wrenching: Shadetree What: Old school subarus, and 80s camaros/firebirds How long doing it: 10 years Other skills: I started taking apart bicycles and putting them back together when i was a little kid. If it had wheels i wanted to make it better (or with cars...faster lol). Ive always been interested in how things work and actually worked as a bicycle mechanic for a year or so.

One of the mysteries of the EA81 cars. I never figured it out myself. Once you pull the headrest up you cant get it back down again. There must be a way but i never bothered to take the time to figure it out. I just threw the seats out instead

Yea when your pumping the gas your shooting a little bit of fuel into the carb from the accelerator pump to prim the motor to fire. If its not doing it...it will be hard to start. Is this a stock hitachi or a weber or the god forsaken one barel carter-weber? If its not a weber 32/36 it might be time to go that direction. At the end of the day its just not worth the bother most of the time for the hitachi and its DEF not worth any bother for the one barrel unless your going for some sort of concourse restoration.

Is the buck you feel a hesitation for second? Im wondering if your accelerator pump in your carb is not shooting the little jolt of fuel right when u press the gas. That would make it buck until it gets into the primary idle jet circuit.

Those doors for the defrost/heat/ac are controlled by cables. The control that you slide from left to right is hooked to a cable that opens and closes certain doors to direct air where you want it. When the sheath breaks it does not open the door entirely. Pull the center defrost/heating controls out of the dash and i bet you will see that cable cover is broken right near the control.

Yea that would be my guess as well. Happened to me as well a long time ago. There is no gain in going to an aftermarket "high performance" coil. Just get a distributor and coil (matched set) from a board member on here and you should be good. Just make sure to get the wires on the coil correct! Been there as well too.

If by storage u mean my house then thank you

Yup this is what i ended up doing also. I was going to buy one for my camaro to tune the Fuel injection but before putting it in there i tossed it in the subaru and tuned the carb. Its amazing what you find out when you can see exactly what all the changes you do to the carb do in affecting your air/fuel ratios. As for leaning it out...thats a dangerous direction if you dont know what those changes are doing to the engine. You could lean it out too far and burn a valve or melt a piston. Basically my advice to you is if you think its running rich i would find out for sure. Do you have a dyno nearby? You could get air/fuel monitoring on the dyno and see if your running rich or lean and it would give you a baseline to fix. Or you could get the wideband o2 and go the direction that GD and i did. This may actually be the cheaper option for you in the long run if you intend on doing changes to the motor in the future.

Do you still have your EGR valve? Im wondering if that is getting stuck open sometimes and not others.

Factory linkage was a bar so that the cable would go to one side and open both carbs the same amount at the same time. Dual cables? I dont think that will work but prove me wrong!

I would check the intake gaskets before u go and pop the heads off. Much more likely with the EA81. And if u wanna sell the heads and cam let me know.

I didnt bother saying this because if it was the distributor it would run like absolute crap. He didnt say anything about it running poor. Just that it would run for 10-15 and then die.

Sensors in the intake will not keep it from running. I have a weber and threw out every single stupid sensor under the hood of my car. Do i get a check engine light? Yes lol. Do i care...nope. I know what its coming on for. An engine needs three things to run..fuel, air, spark. If its running for a few seconds and dying we can rule out air and spark. I think you have a fuel problem. I would check the pump as well as the lower fuel filter as you said. That would be where i start. Dont worry about the sensors on a EA81 vehicle. They will not keep it from running.

Not to mention resealing the motor is so much easier with it out.

what about those people stuck on the wrong coast lol. Everyone whos going have fun. I wish i could too.