hatchsub

Well this morning it worked. I pumped the gas two extra times (so 4 in total) and got the high idle to kick on. I will have to look at the mechanism though. It might just be gummed up.

I agree with GD. Thats really not that bad of a price for a exhaust system. You dont wanna kno what i payed for my damn Stainless exhaust on my car . That purchase came from me getting tired of doing exhausts every few years when one rotted out or throwing patches on top of patches.

Somewhere along the line i lost my high idle with the choke. Ive looked and the choke plates are closing. What else should i look at? I rejetted it but that shouldnt affect the choke i wouldnt think.

There are a couple of issues you will most likely run into trying this. One i think the carbs are going to be too close together if you are using the traditional 32/36. The other is tuning. You are going to basically have to start from scratch as the tuning for a single weber is going to be completely off if you do duals on the same motor. Finding the right jets and getting all the transitions right is going to be a pain. If you can get them to bolt down next to eachother then your halfway there. I would recommend getting a wideband honestly and tune it using that since there will be a lot more to mess with with two webers.

Then i think ill leave it as is. I dont wanna push it too tight and regret it.

Sounds like a quieter diesel now lol. I only hear it from idle to about 2k in first gear after that it sounds normal. It def quieted down when i tightened it down. I havent decided if i want to try tightening it down more. I might just leave it as is at your settings.

Didnt think so just making sure i got all my bases covered. A good amount of the noise is gone but its still a bit noisy so im going to take some time this week and get it down a tad more.

Quick odd question..there is not a specific direction that the pushrods have to be put in right? I didnt look at em too carefully but they looked the same on both ends.

Most likely your looking at a bent valve or a severely gummed up valve from carbon getting by the seat. Either way...that head is coming off to fix it. How many miles are on the motor? I just did headgaskets on one of these motors myself and honestly they are ridiculously easy to do. I had the heads rebuilt by a local machine shop to get a few more hp out of the motor too and its noticeable. While an EJ is a solution to the problem i think you might be invoking more headaches with the wiring to make it all work. I would just fix the EA81. Its really a bulletproof motor if well taken care of and even if something does go wrong its usually cheap and easy to replace.

Another option that i have used as well as the inner control arm bolt is to just unbolt the strut/shock from the knuckle and kick the whole thing down. That will give you enough clearance to get the axle out as well. I leave a bit of grease on the end of my strut just so that it can slide out somewhat easy in the future if i need it to. Either way will work however. Just trying to give you more than one option. But i def agree with GD. Dont waste your time with the balljoint nut.

Im still not sure i completely understand it either but i did get rid of most of the noise by tightening up that clearance. I might just leave it as is because it is livable and going tighter might just hurt performance rather than help.

Heads are the big valve heads. I plan on building a spfi piston/delta cam ea81 with these heads at a later time. Right now its just the heads, the weber and the high flow custom exhaust. Im throwing a wideband on it for a bit and am going to tune the weber using that and see where im at. Im sure i picked up a decent amount of power along with the fact that i already rejetted the weber a bit but need to find out what (if anything) still needs changing. I also upped the timing back to around 10 (going to put a light on it and really fine tune it a bit more). Should be fun.

Thanks for the link! I may be getting a set of these down the line when my current tires get a bit old.

Got out and readjusted the valves this morning before work (not often you hear that phrase lol). Anyways i put the intake valves to .007 and the exhaust to .010. Most of the noise is gone now but there is still a bit. I think im going to tighten em down a tad more to around .006 and .009 or so and see what it sounds like then. Thanks for the help though guys! All i will say is damn this thing scoots now. I had it up on the highway and had to pass someone and didnt even bother downshifting to 4th. I just left it in 5th and flew right by them at 80. I would not even imagine being able to speed up that easy before. I cant imagine what it will be like once i install the wideband and tune the carb closer to where the engine wants it.

Im pretty sure a click or pop are fine as long as its disengaging. Be thankful you can get it to disengage lol. There are people on this board for years that complain of not being able to disengage their trans from 4wd cause they engaged it on pavement. Engaging on dry pavement is a no no.

Are you saying the trans is making noise all the time or just going into and out of 4wd? If its making noise all the time now then i would say you did something. If its only going into and out of 4wd ill let someone who actually owns a 4wd subaru chim in here lol.

Are u putting it into "4wd" (not awd) on the pavement. If so...dont. Its not designed to work on pavement. Its only designed to work in limited traction such as slick roads (sand, snow, rain..u get the drift).

But thats the thing that has me puzzled...i have a stock cam....not a delta. I would like a delta eventually when i have more time but for now i just have the shaved heads, weber, and high flow exhaust. I would think i would have problems adjusting valves with the delta but not with a stock cam.

I would have only thought i would need to do that if i did a cam as well. I realize that the heads are closer together now but i thought the valve adjustment would have taken care of that. I know of people having issues with the delta cams being noisy because of the different lift. Oh well guess the covers are coming back off. Is it ok to drive with it noisy like that? Am i hurting anything? I just dont know when ill get a chance to adjust it (hopefully this weekend).

Ive heard detonation before and i dont think this is it. I could be wrong but its not a pinging its more of a diesely sound. I will however back the timing off back to 8 for now and pop some octane booster in there. I think when blew the other motor i had a tank of 89 so thats probably not helping matters. I cant imagine what it would sound like if i had the SPFI pistons as well.

timing is set to 10 degrees (weber). Valve clearance is .010 for intake valves and .014 for exhaust valves as spec'd by HTKYSA. I was thinking valves as well except for the fact that its damn quiet at idle. And this bottom end has 52k miles on it so i doubt its a rod knock.

If you have been following along ive put together a slightly hi compression EA81 with solid lifters. Specs on the heads are .030 shaved off each head ported and polished 5 angle valve job. I got it up and running tonight for the first time. It idles super smooth and quiet. In fact its quieter than the hydro lifter EA81 that it replaced. That is until i step on the gas. When i step on the gas and let out the clutch to go it sounds vaguely like a diesel. Not nearly as noisy but still not the same sound im used to hearing from an EA81. My question is...is this normal for a solid lifter EA81? Ive never owned one so i have no idea. All i will say is this things got a bit more balls than the old motor.

Ive seen this car in person now. Id be happier if he didnt do the lambo doors or fake hoodscoops. Other than that he didnt do a terrible job redoing it.

My plan for the future is to do that along with a Delta cam in the hydro lifter block that i have...that is after i have it cleaned and do a full rebuild on it. This one was just a matter of wanting to get the motor back together as soon as i can with as little hassle as possible. The heads the machine shop had done in 2 days which was awesome. If i had known it would take as long as it has with the parts to get here for it i probably would have just done it all but live and learn. It should still be a bit snappier off the line. And GD i will most likely be doing the synthetic now that i saw the inside of my other motor. I used just normal napa oil (valvoline) and it looked like crap even though i changed it every 3k on the dot basically. I think im switching over to synthetic.

Figured i would give you guys some pictures of what ive been up to. Unfortunately i do not have pictures of the inside of the engine that got messed up. I really dont know what happened to that motor other than the fact that the two cylinders with lower compression were DISGUSTING. So instead of wasting my time with that motor that may or may not still be ok i decided to throw a set of NICE heads on my 52k mile original EA81 solid lifter motor out of the coupe. Here are the specs on the heads -.030 shaved off each head - 5 angle valve job - extensive port and polish - New valve seals The block itself has been entirely resealed and cleaned up. I even went so far as to remove the very little carbon that had accumulated on the pistons. This motor is damn clean on the inside as shown by the first picture. No i did not clean it up for that shot...it was that clean when i pulled the pan and bellhousing off. Second picture is the pistons and bores. This motor still has VERY evident crosshatching in all cylinders and no score marks that i could find. And here are the heads torqued back down onto the engine with all the valves adjusted. I did NOT clean up the rocker arm assemblies at all. Thats how clean everything in this motor was when i pulled it apart. The only thing left for me to do is open up the holes in the intake so i can bolt it on again and this thing should be ready to go.